I did it, finally! (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 30, 2003
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Got my HEI swapped in, and it runs! Good thing, because I don't know how to use a timing light. I just noted where the toy dizzy's rotor was pointing, and put the hei in that way. I had to adjust it by ear a bit, but it seems fine.

I wired it up using a 30 amp relay(thanks Ed Long!). I get a good juicy 12.76 volts going to the dizzy.

I got some custom wires, and cut them to length.
I basically rebuilt the distributor, with new weights and a crane cams advance kit.

I don't know what I'm gonna do with the heater pipe that I unbolted from the block. Other than that, it's excellent.

Thanks to everyone who helped this d.a.n. out with all this :D
 
:) :D :) :D :D
Congratulations! I used heater hose and routed it over to the pass side and attached it with strap to the "inner fender".
Tell me about your weights and advance kit. And thanks for the acknowledgement.
Ed Long
 
sounds great how much did thi s cost to do
i bought a hei dist. from d.u.i. 50.000 volts
works great but cost 500$
showtime
 
:) :D :) :D :D
Congratulations!  I used heater hose and routed it over to the pass side and attached it with strap to the "inner fender".
Tell me about your weights and advance kit.  And thanks for the acknowledgement.
Ed Long
I just bought some cheap weights that were hanging in pepgirls. The crane cam's advance kit(came with my truck)has alot of adjustability, through different springs, and you can adjust it with a small allen wrench through the hole in the end.
The weights came with different springs too.

I am assuming that the line that went to the old dizzy's advance wasn't vacuum? I used the one that was on the other part of the dizzy, that thing has major wacuum

Thanks for the tips for the heater line, I have it bungeed out of the way right now, hehehehe.

I know some people say you don't get any power increase with this swap, but to that I call BS!!! I can definetley feel it using my sophisticated seatpantometer.

I did find a problem that hadn't shown itself before, my starters start wire is just a bare wire jammed into the starter's half of the connector. Gotta fix that.
 
sounds great how much did thi s cost to do
i bought a hei dist. from d.u.i. 50.000 volts
works great but cost 500$
      showtime
The total cost to me was less than a $100. It would of been much cheaper, because the po gave me a dizzy and advance kit with the 40. That dizzy was no good, so I got one online for something like $47 shipped. Well I received that POS, and promptly saw that it too, was worthless. Of course the f-stick that sold it to me never replied to me emails asking him the deal.
So I finally did what I should of from the get-go, went to a local pickNpull. I walked around the yard, shooting the s*** with the old guy that owned the place. He told me, as we searched for an inline chevy 6 powered car, that it would cost me $40 for the dizzy.
After about an hour, of bs'n and checking out some gems(30K mile scoutII buggy), he said, give me $20, good conversation.
Cool old dude!

BTW, did you get that PM from me? If not, heres something you might like to see, feel free to use the link

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/skargo4/misc/showtime/index.htm

Picture_0704.jpg
 
Scott, good deal!

Something I was told during my carb fiddling, is that the vacuum advance should only have vacuum when the throttle is opened slightly, but not at WOT, and not at idle.

might be a different vacuum line you're looking for..
 
Thanks Rich. I wonder if the original line that was on the original dizzy was the one I wanted?
 
WOW! Sweet cage! :D
 
hey guys,

i just finished my HEI over spring break and i love it too. i have some questions about the heater pipe bolted to the block.

is there any reason i can't go all rubber and just move that line (and the other one right beside it) around under the battery or some place on the fender?

i was also looking at welding the lower pipe up to the other one to get it out of the way.

which way do you think would go best or any other ideas?

thanks,
jonathan
 
Runn rubber, many more routing choices. I think you mean solder? If you're hung up on "solid lines" use copper 1/2" tubing. Rubber, man, rubber.
Ed Long :)
 
You won't be sorry.
Ed
 
solder...weld, whatever. ha ha.
yeah, looks like i'm goin all rubber.
thanks
 

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