I bought a 1966 (6/65) FJ40L 'parts car' to restore (1 Viewer)

[INNOV8S]

Err, rookie mistake as far as the bench bleed goes. I had too long of tube back into the reservoir and tube was not below fluid level. M/C works good now, nice to see as all these cylinders fire as they were nasty. I notice fluid leaking out of one wheel cylinders. I'll need to replace that cup 1-1/8" front, Dorman makes one #2936 available at NAPA.

I ended up using the piston on the right in photo, from SOR, it was 2mm shorter than the original. Center in photo is original I pulled out. Left is the JBS clutch piston - - ironically it is the same length as original.

 

[INNOV8S]

Cleaning up cylinders after the have been frozen stuck 30 years needed a special tool that provided rotational forces. I heated the cast iron outer with an electric paint stripper gun (Wagner), then banged it with a 2.5 lb. sledge. I put a 1/4" square key (some filing down) in the slotted end of the piston. Then attached a weird tool I had picked up at must have been an estate sale. It was a pipe with a notch in it to accept the square key, and a socket welded in the other end of the pipe so a ratchet could provide rotation. I put a 3 foot long 3 in dia. aluminum dock pipe on the end of the ratchet and cranked it back and forth until it came out. It must be nice to have the proper tools!

 

[INNOV8S]

Did it keep running just as it was, or was it dieseling /jerking along? If it kept running well, you still had spark so something is up with the wiring or switch. Test for power at the coil with the switch in different positions.

It ran until I let go of starter switch per the video I posted. I did check voltage across the PO's truck switch(Pollak); OFF was 12v, ACC was 12v, and ON was 12v. I tired another $10 O'Reilly switch; OFF was 0v, ACC was 0v, on was 11.6v. Both switches started the FJ, and both cut out as soon as I let up on the starter. I bought a new Pollack body, but don't know how to get the cylinder out from the old one. I tired that little tab thru the hole, but is seems to be filled with gunk. I'll try the lock shop this week. Also, I have another era correct FJ ignition but no key.

I could use a clean high res. wire diagram of a 1965. I've seen '62, '64, but no '65. Please post or PM me if anyone has one.

 

[INNOV8S]

View attachment 1355537

Tahoe, Mine is so dirty from sitting outside for 30 years I couldn't even see the mounting point. I am missing the standoff like you have and will have to hunt one down. Thanks for posting up!

____

Got the shift link in this weekend!

 

[INNOV8S]

How do you access the threaded type speedo cable to remove IP? Is it better to remove it at the transmission end, and pull the whole cable thru the interior? I need to access where the ignition wire tie into the rest of the harness, which is behind the steer wheel column support.

 

[nuclearlemon]

How do you access the threaded type speedo cable to remove IP? Is it better to remove it at the transmission end, and pull the whole cable thru the interior? I need to access where the ignition wire tie into the rest of the harness, which is behind the steer wheel column support.

pull positive battery cable before doing anything, then undo the two screws and tip the cluster out the small amount that the top will tip. unscrew cable.

 

[INNOV8S]

Thank you Nuclear Lemon.

So I have been working thru the Start, Run, Die issue. Pin_head suggested putting the Ballast Resistor back in line in front of the coil(Thanks PH!) I had taken it out since my current coil has an internal resistor. Would it hurt to have 2 essentially 2 resistors in the circuit. I removed the old in pic below, and the spring like part was distorted/broken, so I replaced with AutoZone part...

New resistor in...black come from harness (ignition). Green goes to + on coil

New resistor in but it started to SMOKE!! - - made no difference, still Starts, Runs, then dies upon release of key.
I only notice it was smoking when I was done for the night and disconnecting the batter. Any of you make house calls? Fresh out of ideas fellas.

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

I admit I haven't followed the thread and what you're dealing with. It's apparent your wiring is messed up.

Just bypass the switch and hotwire the ignition to prove to yourself it works. Then you'll be able to see and understand the circuit that you're trying to troubleshoot.

 

[INNOV8S]

I admit I haven't followed the thread and what you're dealing with. It's apparent your wiring is messed up.

Just bypass the switch and hotwire the ignition to prove to yourself it works. Then you'll be able to see and understand the circuit that you're trying to troubleshoot.

Just hotwired: Jumper from battery cable to coil (+) and... it ran as long as I kept the'screwdriver' across battery cable and terminal of solenoid. It died when I lifted the screwdriver.

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

Did you disconnect everything else? So the only wires on the coil is the jumper from the battery + to coil + and from coil - to distributor?

 

[INNOV8S]

oops... wire to 'Coil +' was connected to Battery Cable at Starter, not at 'Battery +' terminal. Wire from IGN switch to Solenoid was still connected. I'll give it another whirl.

 

[INNOV8S]

I was able to hotwire again using 12gau. wiring; Coil+ directly to Bat+. It roared to life, and seemed to run a little longer after I lifted the screwdriver, but eventually died.

 

[hdjtachtig]

I found this pic on the web. It should be wired like this:

The direct path is to compensate the voltage drop while cranking. If I'm right: old coils are 12 v. While cranking the voltage drops and you might have a bad spark. So they made the coils 10 v or so and made a resistor in line so to get that lower voltage. And while cranking the resistor is bypassed. (Correct me if I'm wrong)

Is yours wired like this?

 

[INNOV8S]

I found this pic on the web. It should be wired like this:

View attachment 1380618
The direct path is to compensate the voltage drop while cranking. If I'm right: old coils are 12 v. While cranking the voltage drops and you might have a bad spark. So they made the coils 10 v or so and made a resistor in line so to get that lower voltage. And while cranking the resistor is bypassed. (Correct me if I'm wrong)

Is yours wired like this?

...it appears that it was wired something like that when I acquired it. If you look at my second post, where I ask "what is that on the firewall" photo, you can see that seems to resemble your posted diagram. Along with a couple of danglers.

When it wasn't starting 8 months ago, I bought new everything; points, cap, rotor, wires, coil. When faced with the new coil decision I went with a coil with internal resistor. As a result I did not wire through the resistor on the firewall. I still have the old DelcoRemy coil, from what I remember this old coil with out internal resistor was just in the Ohm spec. So, I will try per your diagram. Thanks Paul!

Was this the work around for a non period correct coil? I did not see this in all the wiring diagrams. I imagine Toyota OEM parts were hard to come by, or production stopped, and people instead made what they had work?

 

[INNOV8S]

Hdjtachtig, thank you for sending the schematic...it work!! Started and ran. The challenge was to figure out the connection point on the solenoid of the black wire. After some trial and error, I figured out it was the unused green pig tail deal with a connector on it that was wired on the starter when I bought it. Whew! This one has been bugging me for a while, quite a breakthrough.

So it ran and I started playing with the choke and throttle, pushing choke, slightly start to stall and then pulling choke back out, and rev. back up. Same with throttle, push it in and it would stall, pull it back out to get it going again. Ran for 40-50 seconds, then I turned it off. When I stepped to the engine it was smoking. Carb seem to be leaking fuel on block. A year ago I did a rebuild kit on it, so gaskets might need to be tightened? Also, the fuel was way above the mark on the window, actually I could see the fuel level. I suspect my float may be leaking again. The solder I fixed it with probably is not holding. Or me messing with the throttle back and forth could have filled it way too much, not sure?

Wire at right, bottom was the magic connection.
.

Carb is full up with fuel, so high it is above top of window. Appears to be leaking at Body to Flange Gasket

Carb. wet below Body to Flange Gasket.

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

Glad to hear it, that's what I suspected. That's a later starter solenoid that was used to do what HDJ was saying. It was to provide a full 12 volts to the coil during cranking. Unnecessary for an early setup.

The needle and seat is not holding, you are flooding, the dampness will go away when you control the level in the carb.

 

[INNOV8S]

FJ40 starts, revs super high, then apears to stall, revs again, then almost stalls, and again, and then stalls. At start it is full choke and full throttle. Any ideas to smooth the peaks and valleys?

 

[INNOV8S]

I am suspecting a vacuum leak, or possibly the bimetal heat control valve. And just confirmed vacuum leak, as I saw lost of black carbon build up at the ports closest to firewall. I slide a piece of card board between gasket and manifold, yesh. Should I check with local auto parts stores for sources to machine this down. Anybody have experience with this?

Also fuel leaks out the bowl and the window dries out. I did do a carb kit on this awhile back. Any ideas where to focus to find cause of leak?

I've got coolant leaking at the heat control valve/heat sensor. Is this usually as simple as a gasket?, or do these brass valves fail?

 

[INNOV8S]

...vacuum leak is fixed, just needed to torque down the manifold more at one end.

I have been able to start and run for 2-3 minutes at a low idle. But stalls when I push either the throttle cable or choke cable all the way in. Also, fuel level is above line on glass. I did check the float adjustment: 5.8mm up and 20mm down.

1) Can I cheat the upper adjustment on the float to say 7mm, to have it not fill as much?
2) Not sure my step up/meter rod is at a correct range. Two things adjust this, correct? One is the throttle link, pinching it or opening it. Two is the at the top of the plunger and meter rod, you can bend some metal (fig 3-16 in manual). I just don't know where the end of the rod needs to be in comparison to the jet? At rest, or off the rod is fully engaged, or plugging the jet up, so no fuel can go past the jet, correct? The rod must be tapered and act as a stopper? At full throttle is the rod above the jet, and not touching it? I've read the manual, just struggling with the concept of the rod, image from the manual 4-32, X4989 is too small to see, and where to set it at.

Is this enough 'pinch' on the throttle link? Is there an approx angle for reference? My angle is looking 120-130 or so degrees of bend.

 

[INNOV8S]

I found multiple micro cracks in the brass on the float. One major one below the seam, other 3 were above the seam. I'll throw some solder on them and see is this is the source of my issues.

Also, the fuel level in the bowl went down 1/4" overnight. Any ideas for what to check that may be causing this leak?