HZJ79 Trayback install, turbo, inercooler and exhaust manifold. (6 Viewers)

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Not much to update, still waiting on my injection pump to come back from saskatoon, was supposed to be done last week but nothing yet. I did get my frozen boost 12x12x4.5 water/air intercooler, can't wait to get it installed.

Oh, I did get my 4 inch aluminum intake piping and 4 inch elbows to make the snorkel:)

As soon as I get the pump I will be posting pics again - stay tuned!
 
I finally have a bit of an update, just got my coated parts back and I sold my other 1HZ engine - the new owner wanted his parts coated as well. Everything looks great, this coating is very tough and very impressive, i had another coating done inside the ex manifold (XMC coating fireballcoatings.com), the xmc coating is supposed to result in more hp and better fuel economy in the big trucks - i did it just for the heck of it. I even had the turbo outlet coated and I'll be ceramic coating the downpipe as well to keep the temps out of the engine bay.

There is a big difference between ceramic coating and cermichrome - if you are having something coated make sure you know what you are getting.

Just have to make a turbo support bracket, should have my injection pump with boost comp added and pump adjusted closer to 1HDT specs. The inj pump shop said he replaced a few parts as well.

Here are the pics of the coatings.
IMG_0369.jpg
IMG_0373.jpg
IMG_0375.jpg
 
looks so stealth!!! cant wait to see it all installed on your 79.

looking wicked

how much longer until the Ute is back together ?
J
 
Thanks! Well, my pump should arrive today, pressure wash the engine bay, do the valve shims, install clutch and tranny/transfer - hoping mid next week. I work my regular job fri/sat/24 hrs sun/ mon/tues wed nights - so time is tight but I need to get it on the road.
 
looks very nice and shiny mate
hope it works better
 
Ok, got my PWR 4X10 water/air intercooler, bought a rad/fan and pump from siliconeintakes.com, just checked my compression and I have 600-620 in each cylinder. So, the install will begin next week, looks pretty easy, all I have to do is fab up a bend from the turbo to the intercooler. Found a place behind the cab for the rad and fan.

Pics coming soon.

Louis

Louis,
I realize that you have moved on to frozen boost but the rest of us are still just working our way up.:D I just got my 4x10 PWR barrel , pump, rad etc in the mail. As I was thinking through the setup I had a question. Did you use any kind of bracket to hold the barrel in place or did you rely on the stiffness of the silicon tubing connecting it all together to keep the barrel from moving around?
Thanks,
John
 
I didnt use a bracket - it is so light and my piping was rigid so there was no problem - this new one will need to be mounted though:)
 
I didnt use a bracket - it is so light and my piping was rigid so there was no problem - this new one will need to be mounted though:)

Louis,
That is what I thought. I almost bought the frozen boost setup while I was on the silicon intakes site but then I got wind of this PWR setup available for a really good price so I went for it instead. I'll be interested in what you think of the frozen boost gear.
Thanks,
John
 
Well I hope it is the last intercooler I mess with! I've had an air/air, pwr, and now the frozen boost! It is as big as I can fit in there and I am sold on the water/air type over the air/air now. I'll have to receord temps when it is all set up - that is the real way to measure the success.

I've always wondered how a person could get really good fresh air flow across the turbo/manifold to keep the temps down, has anyone run any ducting to that area on their rigs or is it a waste of time? The ceramic turbo/manifold and ceramic downpipe should make a difference though.
 
Engine is back in, I did a valve shim set but was a little leary of the results because of the carbon build up in this engine. It came from Japan4x4, he ran it before it was pulled in Japan and said it sounded great. So as a matter of maintenance I wanted to set the valves, when I pulled the 24v glow plugs I could barely get them out because of what I am sure is carbon build up on them, the exhaust ports were chocked full of carbon as well, on a side note the engine/rad system was full of water only - no rad fluid, this pisses me off as I hate when they run water int he cooling system in japan - causes corrosion, anyway I'm slightly over it now.

When I set the valves the number 1 intake valve shim was way out, .63mm, seemed excessive, so I measured it 3 times after rotating the crank 3 times as well - still came out at 360 so I ordered the appropriate shim. After the engine was installed I started it up - and it ran very bad, in fact I had my hand on the intake manifold and the manifold got very hot - so it was obvious that exhaust was blowing in the intake manifold - and that the valve was open because of the large shim. So - I replaced the old shim and it runs great now. I expect that some carb got hung up in the valve seat and screwed the measurement up. Looks like I'll have to burn the carbon out of this one.

Exhaust will be finished tomorrow. Pics to follow.
 
Boost comp installed, engine installed, test drive is 100 percent. 4Terrain clutch is very smooth, no more gear box clatter after the rebuild, tranny is super tight. I use MT90 Redline tranny fluid, and redline 75-90 transfer synthetic, everything shifts great, I replaced the synchros and everything shifts like a new tight box - which we all like.

I can add tons of fuel and am boosting 10 pounds (with limiter) and I get no smoke at all, the smaller a/r give boost right off idle and it is awesome -will be much better for wheeling.

Truck goes in for new paint in the next week or so.
 
Boost comp installed, engine installed, test drive is 100 percent. 4Terrain clutch is very smooth, no more gear box clatter after the rebuild, tranny is super tight. I use MT90 Redline tranny fluid, and redline 75-90 transfer synthetic, everything shifts great, I replaced the synchros and everything shifts like a new tight box - which we all like.

I can add tons of fuel and am boosting 10 pounds (with limiter) and I get no smoke at all, the smaller a/r give boost right off idle and it is awesome -will be much better for wheeling.

Truck goes in for new paint in the next week or so.

Louis,
I'm looking at getting an OEM boost compensator for my HZ now from Dave at Japan 4x4. If you are not running the OEM compensator, which one are you running? Did you run your HZ turbo'd but without the boost compensator? If so how did the engine run? Also it sounds like you are running a boost controller/limiter? Which one? Dude you know me, I'm just here riding in your shadow and stealing your ideas.:D
Thanks,
John
 
Louis,
I'm looking at getting an OEM boost compensator for my HZ now from Dave at Japan 4x4. If you are not running the OEM compensator, which one are you running? Did you run your HZ turbo'd but without the boost compensator? If so how did the engine run? Also it sounds like you are running a boost controller/limiter? Which one? Dude you know me, I'm just here riding in your shadow and stealing your ideas.:D
Thanks,
John

LOL, John, dont worry about it! The boost comp I talked to dave about already, iirc he said to just get it from all american imports as it was probably cheaper than what he could get it for. The boost comp is a toyota part - but I couldnt get a part number off it. I think with shipping it was about 250 bucks - then I had it installed at a shop.

I just use one of those little knob boost controller things off ebay - was about 40 bucks, work well though and has been under water several times. Tricky to get the tubes right the first time though - get one and I'll run you through it.

I did have the turbo on without the boost comp for 2-3 years, I had my pump set up pretty well and didnt smoke very much at all as I never really ran excessive fuel through it. I owuld get some smoking down low in the rpms until it revved up but now with it on I have no smoke anywhere in the rpm band - I'm digging it.

One thing I have found is that these two engines I just set the valve shims on were out of sdjustment by quite a bit, the engine from japan is so carboned up it is crazy, I have to take it for a couple hundred km run to get it all warmed up and burnt off. But, when i set the valve shims the numbers were way off - I suspect carbon was messing up the numbers. One shim I put in was very thick and went against my better judgement - anyway the first time I stated the engine I got the hot intake manifold from the intake valve being partially open. So - the lesson here is that if your tolerances are out .25mm then you are going to have excessive heat and other issues - so set your valve shims if you already haven't.
 
LOL, John, dont worry about it! The boost comp I talked to dave about already, iirc he said to just get it from all american imports as it was probably cheaper than what he could get it for. The boost comp is a toyota part - but I couldnt get a part number off it. I think with shipping it was about 250 bucks - then I had it installed at a shop.

I just use one of those little knob boost controller things off ebay - was about 40 bucks, work well though and has been under water several times. Tricky to get the tubes right the first time though - get one and I'll run you through it.

I did have the turbo on without the boost comp for 2-3 years, I had my pump set up pretty well and didnt smoke very much at all as I never really ran excessive fuel through it. I owuld get some smoking down low in the rpms until it revved up but now with it on I have no smoke anywhere in the rpm band - I'm digging it.

One thing I have found is that these two engines I just set the valve shims on were out of sdjustment by quite a bit, the engine from japan is so carboned up it is crazy, I have to take it for a couple hundred km run to get it all warmed up and burnt off. But, when i set the valve shims the numbers were way off - I suspect carbon was messing up the numbers. One shim I put in was very thick and went against my better judgement - anyway the first time I stated the engine I got the hot intake manifold from the intake valve being partially open. So - the lesson here is that if your tolerances are out .25mm then you are going to have excessive heat and other issues - so set your valve shims if you already haven't.

Louis,
Ok I finally feel like I can contribute something and not just be the perpetual moocher:grinpimp:. The part number for the OEM boost compensator for the 1HZ is:
22540-17550.

Re: my fuel pump, it hasn't been touched since I imported the engine. It has run like a top though since day One. So I guess I have been lucky til now. But as with everything once you modify one part of a system and make it stronger, better or whatever, the gremilns simply search out the next weak link and pounce to exploit it. The turbo is being mounted now and supposedly it was set at the turbo build shop to "8"psi. Until I get a boost controller I guess that is where it will stay. I'm going to get the boost compensator and get them to give my fuel pump a good going over as this is added into the mix.
Thanks,
John
 
John, where did you find that part number? On toyodiy? How much from Japan? Toyodiy says it is for an HDJ80 1990 - model.
 
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Does anyone have an engine viscosity chart for the 1HZ engine? I'd like to see what Toy recommends for yearly temps.

Thanks!
 
Does anyone have an engine viscosity chart for the 1HZ engine? I'd like to see what Toy recommends for yearly temps.

From the Toyota 1PZ, 1HZ, 1HD-T Engine Repair Manual, Feb., 1990...
LU-5LUBRICATIONSYSTEMOilPressureCheckRecommendedViscosity.jpg


...full page here...



From the Toyota 1HZ Engine Repair Manual Supplement, May, 1998...
LU-1LUBRICATIONOilandFilterRecommendedViscosity.jpg


...full page here...
 

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