HZJ79 Trayback install, turbo, inercooler and exhaust manifold.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

6in coils up front, spring over in the rear, 38in Swampers......
I'm just sayin;)

LOL, naw, I'm gonna keep it closer to the ground - the wife can barely get in it now!

You ever gonna get your done?????!
 
Time to get the wife some longer legs:hillbilly:

Yeah I will get mine done in about a year or two:doh:
 
I like them just they way they are, not messing with that:)

Did you get your manifold and turbo housing ceramic coated? I'm sending mine off shortly to get done - lower those egt's even more.
 
yeah I will start looking into that shortly, so much to do, so little time to do it.
 
Hi Fellas, so I started in on phase 2 of my project - or is it phase 47? Anyway, in this round I am going to be installing a new to me 1HZ that I imported from Japan4x4, it is a lower km engine and I am going to clean it up a we bit before I install it. I was going to originally tear it down and build it up while using HPC coatings on everything but time won't allow for that now - in a nutshell it will be getting BEB, ceramic coating on the manifold and turbo housing, new water pump, timing belt, valve set up etc etc - basic tune up stuff. If I can find a 1HDT injection pump I may use it so I get the boost controller.

Next is the R151 tranny, I bought a tranny from one of the guys on here, it was an experiment hoping I could get a good parts tranny cheap - well I tore it down and it is pretty beat. The R151 is so easy to work on it is silly - I had it totally tore down with gears and bearings removed in less than 2 hours. I bought a rebuild kit for my tranny when I take it out of the truck next week. If I had the kit on hand this whole tranny could be torn down and rebuilt in less than a work day. Kit coming from OZ is going to cost 355AUD, new tranny from the mines is 3600 cdn (7000 and one company), new r151 from japan is 1900-2200cdn (can't remember exactly). I'll rebuild it because I just feel like trying a rebuild.

The engine that came from japan had an H55F and transfer on it - the transfer will be rebuilt and installed in my truck.

New terrain tamer clutch from OZ to stop the clutch smoking when working it hard. This is supposed to be better than the Safari tough and definitley better than the stock clutch.

So, when all said and done I'll have a lower km engine, rebuilt r151 with a marlin crawler HD support bracket and a rebuilt transfer. I'll also be making some mods to my intercooler and of course the ceramic coating will also bring the EGT's down.

Pics to follow.

Regards.
 
looking forward to more info and pics mate
 
New terrain tamer clutch from OZ to stop the clutch smoking when working it hard. This is supposed to be better than the Safari tough and definitley better than the stock clutch.

Terrain Tamer, or 4terrain?
 
I just bought this, will allow for some better flow out of the turbo, I'll get it coated as well. I'll be using V band connections to make life simple in several places on the exhaust. I also bought some exhaust wrap, I used it on my snowmobile this year and I liked the result - keeps the heat out of the engine compartment - so maybe it will keep it away from the turbo.
ATP-WGT-023_450.webp
ATP-WGT-023_2_450.webp
atp-wgt-023_3.webp
 
Last edited:
Good luck with your new build. I will be looking forward to pics and great reading. I just rebuilt my ct20 turbo and scored a 360 degree thrust plate from turbos are us on ebay to help with higher boost loads and also helps with more surface for oil lube. Only speaking from experience about exhaust wrap, because I did my own, I would recommend using lots of the high heat silicone spray to stop the wrap from getting wet. if you don't like I didn't, the pipe under neath will rot like crazy unless of coarse it's stainless.

Take care
DSC00107-1.webp
 
So far I have only been using stainless pipe and will continue to do so. What is that plate thingy you are showing there???
 
That thingy I'am showing is inside the center section of the turbo. It is the thrust plate. When the turbo boosts high there is a lot of force on that brass plate. Factory turbos use a 270 degree plate and by using a 360 degree plate there is more surface for thrust and oiling. later I'll show you the stock thrust plate I took out of my turbo if your interested.

Take care
 
Here is a picture of the original thrust plate. The center section is a solid one piece. With the 360 thrust, the center piece is a two piece. There are four thrust machined surfaces with a drill passage for oil on each thrust surface. You can see the benefits.The warn out ring on the one piece center section is where the carbon seal rides on. I switched the carbon seal over to a dynamic seal and it seems to work well with only a droplet of oil found in the inter cooler piping which is good enough for me. If your turbo is out on the bench it would be the right time for a refresh. I would recommend a balance from a professional turbo company. I have marked my turbo quite well and it had a faint funny sound at certain lbs of boost, then it was balanced and all was well. It is not to difficult to rebuild the turbo. Then you can push the hell out of it with a sound mind. Melett turbos have great exploded views of all turbos.

Good luck and take care.
DSC00176.webp
DSC00179.webp
DSC00182.webp
 
Last edited:
Well, I'm finally tearing my truck apart, tranny/transfer is apart, engine coming out next week, already started tuning the JDM engine with new parts and pieces etc etc.

One thing I noticed when I removed my snorkel was that the rubber hose between the airbox and the snorkel looked like it has been collapsing under boost - so I emailed ARB and this is their response:
"Hi Louis,

That explains it. The combination of the boost level you are running and the pre cleaner will be exceeding the design airflow of the snorkel assembly.

If you can source a Donaldson 12” pre cleaner, or resort to the Safari Air Ram, that will help. According to the Safari Boffins you are roughly double the boost that the snorkel is designed to cope with. If you continue to collapse the hose, then a locally sourced alternative with stiffer walls will be the only additional step, however the cross section of the snorkel body will then be the limiting factor.

Kind Regards"

Now I know I am not crazy, the vacuum I have been hearing at 15 pounds boost is pretty loud, I have my fuel adjusted just right for no smoke and lots of power, so.... now I'll custom fab a 4 inch stainless snorkel. And this is great news because it means even lower egt's and less stress on the engine!

With the smaller turbo a/r and less air restriction, ceramic coating and a bunch of other tweaks including a boost compensator I should get a pretty good dyno result! I know the boost comp doesn't improve power but it allows better tuning.

Found water in my t-case, also found the 2 piece output shaft with sleeve, looks like the sleeve was just about to let go so I caught this in time, anyone with an HZJ79 turbo with r151 needs to buy the 1 piece shaft - I'll post the part number when I get it.


Stay tuned!
 
Let me know when you need the axles, and which company to ship with.
Cheers,
Deny
 
Hi Deny, Looking for a snorkel??

I keep forgetting about them. Problem is that my truck is torn apart and can't pick them up until it is done in a couple of weeks. We'll have to figure out the weight and then prepay the shipping otherwise they charge about double when they arrive. The company would be Epic Express, here is the contact info:

Fort St. John Service Centre
Fort St. John, BC
8811 - 107 Street
Fort St. John, BC
V1J 5R4
Canada
Phone / Tél. : (250) 785-8155 Fax / Téléc.: (250) 785-2077

Deliver to:

Ottawa Service Center
Ottawa, ON
Epic Express
1740 Comstock Road
Ottawa, ON
K1B 5L2
Canada

Phone / Tél. : 613-244-0803
Fax / Téléc.: 613-244-0804
Service Center Manager : Paul Seguin
 
Last edited:
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom