Hello, I'm about to dig into the dashboard to replace the blower switch on my '91 HZJ73. Just wondering if anyone has some tips on making this a fairly painless operation? How much of the dash is it necessary to remove to access the switch?
HZJ73 fan blower switch replacement (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mountainjnky75
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prwillard2
SILVER Star
The good news is that your dash is held together by 10mm & 12mm bolts and everything else is mounted with screws.
If you've got to pull your entire fan unit out, you'll need to remove the entire dash out I believe.
If you've got to pull your entire fan unit out, you'll need to remove the entire dash out I believe.
Fan drops out of the bottom of the housing
What’s the problem that you want to remove the fan switch? Lots of times the problem with fan not working or only on some speeds is the resistor mounted on/near the fan itself
It's not too bad. Removing the instrument panel and the radio surround should be enough to get access for replacement.
- Thread starter
- #6
I've taken the fan out and inspected it, the problem appears to be with the blower switch as far as I can tell. On my HZJ, the fan is removed by dropping down from under the dash in passenger footwell area.
- Thread starter
- #7
The issue is that the fan only turns on at the medium and high settings and doesn't run on low. So to run the a/c or heat, you've gotta have the air blasting... I've already got a new blower switch and figured I'd replace that as a first step. Is the resistor replaceable?
Based on what I have encountered with my 70, your description indicates that the resistor is partially burned out. The last time I needed one some years ago, they were available but had to be ordered.
As Coldtaco already mentioned, the resistor is close to the fan motor and relatively easy to access for replacement.
Good luck
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks for the feedback on that. I think I'll go ahead and replace the switch since I have it already, and if that doesn't fix it, it's on to the resistor next. Do you recall if you used a Toyota brand replacement or just a similar generic resistor?
If your problem is blower inop at low speed then I can almost guarantee it is the blower resistor. They tend to burn out after 25-odd years. New ones from Toyota are readily available and inexpensive. If yours is 24v then I think the part number is 87138-90K01, but I would suggest using your frame number to confirm that. The resistor is located next to the blower motor and is held in with two screws. Less than 5 minutes to replace.
prwillard2
SILVER Star
take a picture when you do, I need to do this mod, but haven't gotten around to it!
I was certain I had taken a couple of photos of it when I replaced mine last year, but I cannot find them. I can grab a photo or two tomorrow morning when it is light out if you'd like. The resistor is right there in the passenger footwell, located in the heater duct that comes out of the blower motor and goes across the transmission hump to the driver's side.
Had to grab a couple of things out of the Cruiser so I snagged a photo while I was there. Looks like just one screw to undo instead of two.
Here is a photo of the resistor, mine is a 12v variation so the part number might differ from your application.
Here is a photo of the resistor, mine is a 12v variation so the part number might differ from your application.
I do not recall finding any aftermarket options for the resistor, but I also do not recall looking either.
With the info provided by AirheadNut, I would suggest removing the resistor first to visually inspect it. My experience was the wire resistor coils break (burn out) and can readily be seen. If that is your case, keep the new switch in your parks stock and save the time/effort opening the dash to change out a good switch.
99% chance it’s the resistor. It was in my case. 
- Thread starter
- #16
That sounds like a pretty easy fix, I'll order a new resistor and hopefully be back in business... Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it!
prwillard2
SILVER Star
you rock, thanks brother! Mine is 12v as well, so ordering this time now!
- Thread starter
- #18
That's a good call on that. The resistor looks to be very easy to access and replace, so I'll do that as a first step and hang onto the switch in I need it later. Thanks for the tips, with a little luck I'll have her back up to snuff soon.
Pretty easy to remove and check before you buy a new one. Normally you can visually see the burned out coil but otherwise it's easy to test continuity with a multimeter. But as suggested by others, this is pretty likely where your problem will be.
