Hydro Assist install. Abandoned SLEE high steer kit. (1 Viewer)

[Broski]

You would have had to rework the Pan Hard as well.
I have been running Hydro assist in the rear on the stock tie rod for over 6 years now with 39" tires & stock 80 tie rod ends.
It's been holding up fine and I run some of the hardest trails the west has to offer !
Come by for a Beer at Cruiser Moab I well be at the same spot I have been the last 4 years at the end of horse stalls south of the race track in the cab over camper.

 

[Broski]

after much work and preparation, I've pretty much abandoned the front high steer.

Turns out it's just not possible without several inches of lift. Like zero chance. I never noticed that limitation anywhere.

In consideration is possibly using them on opposite sides to have double sheer on the factory rear tie rod to help with the affects of hydro assist. But they would be pretty close to the shocks at full lock.

Could you elaborate on what the issue was. I'm guessing it was drag link to frame clearance issue.

 

[AcroSteve]

Could you elaborate on what the issue was. I'm guessing it was drag link to frame clearance issue.

While swapping springs around, I just left them out and dropped it down on the round bump stops.

Problem 1.Panhard bar was pretty much running right across the middle of the axle housing. Right where the cyl would be.

Problem 2. I didn't have the slee arms installed, but it sure looks like they would be at or above the pitman arm. Looked like the arm might actually be able to pass above the pitman and hit the steering box if nothing was hooked to them.

disregarding those, the only place to mount the cyl would be below the axle housing.


I hear you regarding the stock tie rod and hydri assist, but we've already bought the arms. Double sheer on the rear would simply allow them to be put to use. Lol.

I am still moving forward mounting the cyl on the back nut undecided for sure on using the slee arms.

 

[Broski]

While swapping springs around, I just left them out and dropped it down on the round bump stops.

Problem 1.Panhard bar was pretty much running right across the middle of the axle housing. Right where the cyl would be.

Problem 2. I didn't have the slee arms installed, but it sure looks like they would be at or above the pitman arm. Looked like the arm might actually be able to pass above the pitman and hit the steering box if nothing was hooked to them.

disregarding those, the only place to mount the cyl would be below the axle housing.


I hear you regarding the stock tie rod and hydri assist, but we've already bought the arms. Double sheer on the rear would simply allow them to be put to use. Lol.

I am still moving forward mounting the cyl on the back.

Here's a picture of one I did for a friend. If it helps

 

[Squeegee]

While swapping springs around, I just left them out and dropped it down on the round bump stops.

Problem 1.Panhard bar was pretty much running right across the middle of the axle housing. Right where the cyl would be.

Problem 2. I didn't have the slee arms installed, but it sure looks like they would be at or above the pitman arm. Looked like the arm might actually be able to pass above the pitman and hit the steering box if nothing was hooked to them.

disregarding those, the only place to mount the cyl would be below the axle housing.


I hear you regarding the stock tie rod and hydri assist, but we've already bought the arms. Double sheer on the rear would simply allow them to be put to use. Lol.

I am still moving forward mounting the cyl on the back nut undecided for sure on using the slee arms.

Are you using 80 coils and radius arms?

 

[AcroSteve]

Here's a picture of one I did for a friend. If it helps
View attachment 3871598

Nice! Thanks.

Got a pic of the other end? What stroke cylinder is that? I'm pretty sure I'm gonna mount my fixed end right at the radius arm bracket. My rod towards the passenger side

I measured my tie rod movement at 9". So I'm trying to shoehorn 10" in there seems like most people use 8". I'm also figuring on keeping the sway bar.

 

[AcroSteve]

Are you using 80 coils and radius arms?

Yes. Ome coils.


I realize it might be a bit of a head scratcher as to why high steer on a stock suspension. Well, for one reason or another, we've got some interference between the sway bar and the stock tie rod. Without thinking it all the way through, we thought moving it the the front with a high steer kit would eliminate the issue.

 

[Squeegee]

Yes. Ome coils.

Ok cool. I had a similar problem with the panhard when I did my high steer with stock coils. The fix was a short panhard with a pretty funny bend in it. My execution wasn’t the best because I decided to use 2 5/8” joints and the body of them liked to hit the frame when I jumped the car but it cycled well despite how short it was

 

[Broski]

Nice! Thanks.

Got a pic of the other end? What stroke cylinder is that? I'm pretty sure I'm gonna mount my fixed end right at the radius arm bracket. My rod towards the passenger side

I measured my tie rod movement at 9". So I'm trying to shoehorn 10" in there seems like most people use 8". I'm also figuring on keeping the sway bar.

It’s a 10" x 11/2"
You should be getting at least 95/8" of movement, the one pictured is running a full 10". I run the same ram but have it shimed down 9 3/4".
I don't know of anyone running a 8" ram in the back on a 80 axle.
I did run a 9" ram at first but the the loss of turning radius was very noticeable.
I'm pretty sure you will run into clearance issues at the diff trying to run it fixed end at the control arm.
If your happy with 9" of stroke I have a good used 9" x 11/2" ram I would be willing to sell.

 

[AcroSteve]

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna mount my fixed end right at the radius arm bracket. My rod towards the passenger side

Nope. Changed my mind now that I slept on it. Lol.

 

[Broski]

Nope. Changed my mind now that I slept on it. Lol.

About adding hydro or the orientation of the ram ?

 

[AcroSteve]

About adding hydro or the orientation of the ram ?

Orientation...

But, my 1st mockup won't work.
Oil pan won't let me keep it close to in line.
Looks like i gotta move that end towards the front 2" at least. Much more like yours.

I'm not yet on my bump stops.

And back on the SLEE arm clearance with stock lift. Drop it another 2" to the stops, then raise the drag link up about 4". Just won't fit.

 

[AcroSteve]

2" from the stops

 

[AcroSteve]

It’s a 10" x 11/2"
You should be getting at least 95/8" of movement, the one pictured is running a full 10". I run the same ram but have it shimed down 9 3/4".
I don't know of anyone running a 8" ram in the back on a 80 axle.
I did run a 9" ram at first but the the loss of turning radius was very noticeable.
I'm pretty sure you will run into clearance issues at the diff trying to run it fixed end at the control arm.
If your happy with 9" of stroke I have a good used 9" x 11/2" ram I would be willing to sell.
View attachment 3871736View attachment 3871734

I'm not that experienced, obviously. Lol.
cylinder length noted.

 

[Broski]

Orientation...

But, my 1st mockup won't work.
Oil pan won't let me keep it close to in line.
Looks like i gotta move that end towards the front 2" at least.

I'm not yet on my bump stops.
View attachment 3871896View attachment 3871897View attachment 3871898


And back on the SLEE arm clearance with stock lift. Drop it another 2" to the stops, then raise the drag link up about 4". Just won't fit.
View attachment 3871900

View attachment 3871903

Refer to post 24. down and forward. I center the mount over the weld on the axle housing. and those bump stop will compress up to 1" on hard hits
Ask me how I know

Ram fitting into the oil pan

 

[Broski]

I have done a few of these now if you want some tips PM me. I'm happy to help

 

[AcroSteve]

I have done a few of these now if you want some tips PM me. I'm happy to help

I'm working it out
On the stops now.

I'll probably that cyl so the fittings are more like 45deg.

That factory tie rod is 1.125 with split threaded ends. I'm gonna swap it for a 1.25 one i have with solid ends. You mentioned your still using stock. Is that the split end style?

 

[Broski]

I'm working it out
On the stops now.

I'll probably that cyl so the fittings are more like 45deg.
View attachment 3871985


That factory tie rod is 1.125 with split threaded ends. I'm gonna swap it for a 1.25 one i have with solid ends. You mentioned your still using stock. Is that the split end style?

Yes split ends with clamps. IMO they hold better than jam nuts.
I had to spot weld the jam nuts on the one I did with solid ends other members have had the same issue.

 

[AcroSteve]

I have done a few of these now if you want some tips PM me. I'm happy to help

I do have a question where knowing the answer early will sure help.

Which hyd line goes to which port on the steering box?

I'm going to order lines and rather than getting them both the same so I could switch them, knowing ahead of time will let me better fit them. Inches matter

 

[Broski]

I’m away form the truck right now
I could check tomorrow