How'd you torque bolts on the front driveshaft?
- Thread starter Rookie2
- Start date
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I used a smaller 3/8 deep socket with an adapter. It fit on the nuts were the standard hald inch would not
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
I had to use an adapter as well -- got it to work though.
skipped it.
I just tightened them up F-----G tight with a couple of ring spanners, or should I say box spanners...lol
i used a hammer and screw driver.
each whack = about 14 ft/lbs.
each whack = about 14 ft/lbs.
I used a metric crows foot, extension, and a torque wrench. Torqued it to specified amount by the book. I don't want to mess it up and safety is paramount.
miked said:
hmmm You use the hammer and drink the screwdriver?- Thread starter
- #9
Well, thanks for the feedback guys. With the front diff flange right on the other side of the nuts, I don't see how you can get on them with a standard torque wrench. I can get in there with a box wrench and a cheater bar to get some pretty good torque on them. So I may just have to wing it.
Rookie2
Rookie2
I torqued two with the thinner sockets then moved the rig back a bit and did the other two. Are you saying you can't get on any of them?
By hand (elbow click)
If you use a crow’s foot make sure you either use it positioned perpendicular to the torque wrench or do the math to adjust for the longer lever arm or you will over torque them.
If you use a crow’s foot make sure you either use it positioned perpendicular to the torque wrench or do the math to adjust for the longer lever arm or you will over torque them.
I use an old 1/2 drive torque wrench, that I gutted, as a cheater bar. I slip a cut-off 14 mm box end wrench into the handle, place the wrench on the back side nuts, and then brace the whole contraption against the ground so I don't have to hang onto it.
I use a thin walled 3/8 drive socket on a WOBBLY extension and a 1/2 drive torque wrench to reef down on the bolts/ nuts. When I have done the bottom two on each flange I roll the truck so that the next two are down, and then do those.
It's a real PITA but I don't believe you really want those fasteners to fall off, or break due to over-torquing.
IMHO whacking them with a big mallet is waaay too "shade tree", and just asking for trouble.
Oh yeah - remove them one flange at a time and put anti-seize on the threads!
John
I use a thin walled 3/8 drive socket on a WOBBLY extension and a 1/2 drive torque wrench to reef down on the bolts/ nuts. When I have done the bottom two on each flange I roll the truck so that the next two are down, and then do those.
It's a real PITA but I don't believe you really want those fasteners to fall off, or break due to over-torquing.
IMHO whacking them with a big mallet is waaay too "shade tree", and just asking for trouble.
Oh yeah - remove them one flange at a time and put anti-seize on the threads!
John
- Thread starter
- #13
Romer said:
I can get on them with a closed end, or boxed end wrench, but any of the socket style wrenches (including my torque wrench) are too deep and/or wide to get on either the nut side or bolt side of the front end of the front driveshaft.
I need a boxed end wrench with 14mm on one end and a 3/8" or 1/2" drive on the other (and then adjust the torque setting down for the added length, like Raven said). Is this the crows foot thing you all are talking about?
Thanks,
Rookie2
.
you guys know i was kidding about the hammer and screwdriver right?
it was in reference to the method used my the prev owner to tighten the 54mm hub nuts. you could tell due to the impact marks. if i ever meet him in person, he gets a GlounkNose!
you guys know i was kidding about the hammer and screwdriver right?
it was in reference to the method used my the prev owner to tighten the 54mm hub nuts. you could tell due to the impact marks. if i ever meet him in person, he gets a GlounkNose!
