How to tell a 60 head vs 62 head? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MoaByte
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
3FE vs 2/3F carb cyl. head
For reference, here's some pics of the 85-later 2F or 3F cylinder head, and a 1988 3FE cylinder head. Both heads have been cleaned, milled and had valves changed to 1.50 & 1.84 stainless SBC parts. Notice how the FI intake ports have a significantly raised gasket surface. It would be pretty...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #4
Perfect! The intake ports.. I somehow forgot. Thank you.This may help.
3FE vs 2/3F carb cyl. head
For reference, here's some pics of the 85-later 2F or 3F cylinder head, and a 1988 3FE cylinder head. Both heads have been cleaned, milled and had valves changed to 1.50 & 1.84 stainless SBC parts. Notice how the FI intake ports have a significantly raised gasket surface. It would be pretty...
Blow your head up dude?
Eventually I’ll take the head off this spare 2F I have and get rid of it. Not sure when I will find the time though.
- Thread starter
- #6
Nah, just that flicker on the vacuum gauge. Being she's my daily, makes more sense to get a used head and drop it off at the machine shop than to pull the head and do the same. Start out with new valve guide seals, check warpage, etc.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 571
- Messages
- 16,046
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Have it pressure checked before anything else.
- Thread starter
- #9
Ordered Friday, delivered today. That doesn't happen in Moab. Anyway, it looks to be in good shape but I won't have time to do a straight edge across it until this evening. The oil galley has been done. Spark plugs even look good. But what should I expect a 35 year old block of cast iron look like? I don't see any sludge build up. A little carbon deposit in the exhaust ports and on the valve heads but nothing I wouldn't expect.
I got to find a automotive machine shop in Grand Junction. If any of you have a recommendation, please!
This is not going to be a high performance build. Just back to stock specs unless there is some special valve upgrade I should consider.
I got to find a automotive machine shop in Grand Junction. If any of you have a recommendation, please!
Thanks. This is where they put a vacuum on it to see how well the valves are fitting?
This is not going to be a high performance build. Just back to stock specs unless there is some special valve upgrade I should consider.
We, the Land Cruiser driving public, want photos!
- Thread starter
- #11
It will be a few more hours. The eagle eyes of MUD are a huge asset.
I was just reading :.
Yeah, I didn't study before the test.
I believe Matt is referring to pressure testing the coolant passages to make sure there aren't any cracks that render the head scrap.
I'd recommend searching the 40 and 60 sections for posts by FJ40Jim that contain "chevy valve". You can step up to slightly larger valves that allow the existing seats and guides to be machined to fresh without needing to replace them.
If you aren't scared to work with a die grinder / carbide burr and some mini sanding drums, you can improve flow behind the valves where the cast and machined portions of the bowl meet, and the seat insert meets the machined surface. This will even (and slightly improve) intake flow between cylinders as variation in the casting from cylinder to cylinder likely has left the head with poorly shaped areas behind a couple valves.
If you look in this thread, you'll find some of my experience with spiffying up a 3FE head a dozen or so years ago. There's a bit of valve info, though I think the particular valves I used are disco'd, and some port/bowl shape info starting at post 64.
improving flow for the 3FE’s top end
This post reserved for summary, links to relevant threads/sites, etc. Will be updated as things progress. Some relevant threads: Jim C's comparison of the 3FE head to the late 2F/3F head matt.mcinnes' 2F-ETI build thread Matt's head-focussed thread from the above build Randy and Mark freshen up...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 571
- Messages
- 16,046
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
It would go in a solvent tank and put pressure to the combustion chamber. I just had a head with a 7" long crack along the coolant passage that wasn't visible to the eye
As far as I know 61040 is the 60 2F head. I HAVE read some of Jim C’s posts on this a while back and he really goes into detail.
- Thread starter
- #17
Watched a video and decided to try this. I filled the intake and exhaust ports with water to see how well the valves seat.
Notice intake valve leaking on #3?
And again exhaust on #5 and intake on #6.
Just a simple test to prove to myself that it needs a valve job.
Notice intake valve leaking on #3?
And again exhaust on #5 and intake on #6.
Just a simple test to prove to myself that it needs a valve job.
