How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

amiera said:
...It's een a while since this was updated but it seems that the one issue of the sub not working when both channels are wired was never fully resolved.

...I'd like to add another theory to the mix in case others are still having trouble with this issue.

...When wiring a dual voice coil sub, the polarity of the wires (+ and -) must be correct or the two coils will effectively fight one another resulting in very little (if any) sound output. If they are wired with opposite polarity one voice coil is trying to push the sub cone one direction while the other coil is trying (with roughly equal force) to push the cone in the opposite direction at all times resulting in almost no cone movement...and therefore almost no sound. I say "almost" no sound because if the audio signal going to one channel differs slightly from the signal going to the other, the net different between them will actually move the cone a little and so you might hear some sound...but it will be at a lower volume than normal.

...You might try reversing the leads on 1 coil from what you originally had, and bring the volume up from zero very slowly.

I am about to try and replace the blown sub in my 2003 Landcruiser. If in doing that I find any useful information relevant to this post I will share it.

Do you have the navi unit in your 03? I would REALLY like a definitive answer on the ohm rating of the sub, as well as the other speakers. Many conflicting answers on here. I have deduced that the speakers are 4 ohm and the sub is 7.5 ohm, but want a definitive answer before I make purchases of replacement speakers / tear the truck apart...

Sent from my EVO using IH8MUD
 
Tomorrow i am going to pick up a Bazooka subwoofer. 6" diameter, 8ohms, and ~3" deep. It should be nearly a direct replacement to my blown speaker.

If so, i will post up part numbers for you guys to be able to get it.
 
Tomorrow i am going to pick up a Bazooka subwoofer. 6" diameter, 8ohms, and ~3" deep. It should be nearly a direct replacement to my blown speaker.

If so, i will post up part numbers for you guys to be able to get it.

I was looking at this a while back and actually called Bazooka customer service and was told the 6" dvc sub is just over 3.5" deep. Please post up results so we will know if this is a viable option.
 
If it is slightly too deep. I will probably try and run a little trim ring spacer. If that doesn't work either, it was only 20 bucks :)
 
From Bazookas site:

WF641.5DV Specification

Voice Coil Size --------------------------------- 1.5
Diameter --------------------------------- 6.5"
Mounting depth --------------------------------- 3.625"
 
Has anyone found a suitable drop in replacement for the stock dual voice coil sub speaker? If so, can you post up what model worked for you?
 
If it is slightly too deep. I will probably try and run a little trim ring spacer. If that doesn't work either, it was only 20 bucks :)

So how did this work out?
 
FYI:

I have removed the entire sub box assembly and its never going back in. It is in perfect shape and available for sale. PM me if your interested.
 
Update for mid 2012. The bazooka and other speakers that are 8 ohm and this shallow to fit in the Mark Levinson box have been discontinued and simply don't exisit any longer to fit in this tight spot. I tried the JL Audio 6W3v3-8 and it is too deep as well. It was the the only 8 ohm 6 inch speaker I could even find that was close.

So I went with the silicon repair. Please note, the rear seat belt bolt on myLX470 would not come all the way out. I think there was some serious lock tight or something on these bolts. The good news is you only need to loosen slightly to get the entire cover off.
 
Has anyone found a suitable drop in replacement for the stock dual voice coil sub speaker? If so, can you post up what model worked for you?

I used Audiopipe TS-V6
 
I unplugged my toasted stock sub and now have an Infinity Basslink which I think sounds really good. But it is bulky. Does anyone have an opinion on the comparison between the Basslink (A powered sub) and the stock? I'm considering repairing and going with the stock location... very clean. I have an '02 with Nav - if it makes any difference.
 
Been a few weeks since this was last touched. Just blew mine. Anybody find a direct replacement for the speaker?

Called Toyota, they only sell an entire new enclosure for $400...totally insane to replace a simple rear speaker. Sounds like the guy at Toyota that designed these rear sub speakers must have also contributed on the crap side door molding.
 
nice writw up, im definatly going to do this!!
 
Guys.. do not buy a new speaker.. the foam is blown out connecting the coe to the metal frame.. just remove and re-cone. IT is 10-30 bucks for the kit... foam and glue.

I did mine a year ago and it is perfect.... just do a web search.. or remove it measure it and order the size foam you need... I got mine off ebay for my 01 lexus..

Much easier than jamming something new in there...... Or just take the speaker to a repair shope.. 50 bucks and you are ready to go... Seriously do not understand why everyone replaces the entire speaker for rotted foam.
 
I agree. We are dealing with a very good sub to start with, 6 1/2" is not a powerful sound in such a big vehicle. So repair is. Simply speakers has the kit it's inexpensive. I did mine a few months ago and it works fine. Cost about $20 and took a few hours total time of which I spread out over two weekends.
 
Or if you want to go cheaper, do the silicon fix talked about on the thread. It worked well for me.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
mtnracer said:
I used Audiopipe TS-V6

Did you get the amp overload issue figured out?
 
Did you get the amp overload issue figured out?

It just required a resistor to be soldered in to increase the Ohms and all worked fine with the Audiopipe TS-V6.

Since then I had a custom box built in the factory space and it now houses an 8" Boston Acoustics G1 which sounds amazing with my new ARC Audio amps and new speakers all around. :p

I can now turn it up loud enough to make my ears bleed with ZERO distortion.
 
It just required a resistor to be soldered in to increase the Ohms and all worked fine with the Audiopipe TS-V6.

Since then I had a custom box built in the factory space and it now houses an 8" Boston Acoustics G1 which sounds amazing with my new ARC Audio amps and new speakers all around. :p

I can now turn it up loud enough to make my ears bleed with ZERO distortion.

I just got a Audiopipe TS-V6 from Amazon, what kind of resistor would I need to pick up, part number would be helpful too.

Thanks
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom