How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

ya, either wire them in series to increase resistance or parallel to reduce it....all depends on how much current you want to draw, the voltage aint changin.
 
2 ohm load compared to a 7.5 ohm load is almost 4x the load on the sub amp. There's no telling whether or not the amp can carry the load OK due to lack of system specs. You might be OK and you might not. Hope you don't smell the sub amp. :D
 
Good article. Thank you.

I still did not wire up the second voice coil in series so I am still running one coil. From the article it seems that the issue is not electrical problems (fire, burn-out, etc.) but rather sound quality. I will definitely hook up the second coil when I get a free minute.
 
Hello, New the forums and to my 2002 LX.

Would it hurt anything to just take the speaker out and leave it out? This speaker is blown on my LX and I have to fade it completely to the front because the sound is so bad. I would however like to blend in the speakers from the second row. I don't much care about the sub as I mostly listen to talk radio.
 
Will not hurt anything to leave subwoofer out.
 
My version...

Well, I went with this subwoofer (cost me about $40):
6 1/2" Eurostyle WOOFER 4ohm DVC-Toyota, Chevy Bose etc - eBay (item 360301155275 end time Mar-06-11 13:16:39 PST)

I dynamatted my wheel wells inside (quieted down those new tires a bit):
5524982720_c713e1ca1e.jpg


I then had to trim pretty much all the metal around the edge up to where the surround glued to it:
5524389557_aedd442da3.jpg


It works well, the only weird part was the fact that I had to wire the polarity backward. But it did the trick. Sounds good, pretty cheap fix, especially given the fact that the factory sub's surround had completed turned to dust.
 
Mine blew... I removed.. measured the foam... and ordered a replacement foam plug Glue on Ebay. total 10 bucks. works good as new now.

Just go to Youtube and there are lots of videos on repacing speaker foam... it is like an elmers glue project from kindergarden once you have the speaker out.

I also saw someone had a kit.... see the email below.. when they responded I had already ordered foam of Ebay... again... my speaker is good as now... bass cranking again.

Hello,



Our foam kit #FS-6B should work fine. Price is $15. Call us to order by phone. Thanks!



Please give us a call or e-mail if you need more information.

We will be happy to help you.

Regards,

Sean Ryan and the crew at Simply Speakers

Toll Free: 1-800-511-EDGE (3343)
Phone: 727-571-1245
Fax: 727-526-2096
Hours: 10am-6pm, EST, M-F

Simply Speakers
6625 35th Street
Pinellas Park, FL 33781

Visit our website! http://www.simplyspeakers.com/
 
Not sure if my is working or not - I am tone deaf - but I see a major problem in ever replacing mine.... I have permanent drawers installed which cover a good portion of the side molding/cladding.

Oh well.
 
Nice write up! By chance did you measure the depth of the factory sub box?
 
I think it changed when they went to the JBL system. I know my 2000 had the dual 4's.
 
just measured it, i don't think it will fit anything deeper than 3".

Thanks for the great instructions, in case if anyone who has a LX470 with Mark Levinson package, I took out the woofer and seems like there is only one pair of wires on the speaker and the harness. So now I am not sure whether I need a DVC or single voice coil speaker. I will get a multimeter to measure the ohms later...

Here are a couple pictures...

DSC_4265.JPG


DSC_4266.JPG
 
Please do post up the Ohm rating for the Levinson sub.

If you have only two wires glued to the speaker cone on the factory speaker, then you are a single voice coil sub. If you look at the difference between the speaker in post 26 above, you can see the 4 wires in the cone, on your pictures you can see only the two.
 
Anyone have the specs needed for a direct replacement for the 6.5" speaker?
Or have a link to a good replacement one? I am not very good at car audio stuff.
 
...It's een a while since this was updated but it seems that the one issue of the sub not working when both channels are wired was never fully resolved.

...I'd like to add another theory to the mix in case others are still having trouble with this issue.

...When wiring a dual voice coil sub, the polarity of the wires (+ and -) must be correct or the two coils will effectively fight one another resulting in very little (if any) sound output. If they are wired with opposite polarity one voice coil is trying to push the sub cone one direction while the other coil is trying (with roughly equal force) to push the cone in the opposite direction at all times resulting in almost no cone movement...and therefore almost no sound. I say "almost" no sound because if the audio signal going to one channel differs slightly from the signal going to the other, the net different between them will actually move the cone a little and so you might hear some sound...but it will be at a lower volume than normal.

...You might try reversing the leads on 1 coil from what you originally had, and bring the volume up from zero very slowly.

I am about to try and replace the blown sub in my 2003 Landcruiser. If in doing that I find any useful information relevant to this post I will share it.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom