alia176
SILVER Star
How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics
- Thread starter Zane
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^^^This^^^
Once when the bump method didn't work on the crank bolt I sprayed a few different penetrating oils on the bolt multiple times over a few days but it still wouldn't budge.
So went to the hardware store and picked up a five foot length of 2" galvanized pipe to use as a cheater bar. Slid that over a 3/4" drive breaker bar and with all my might (and weight) the bolt finally broke loose.
To the point about using penetrating oil: after removing the crank bolt and looking at the threads and the block side of the bolt flange, they were completely dry, not a trace of penetrating oil got behind the bolt or to the threads.
FWIW
Once when the bump method didn't work on the crank bolt I sprayed a few different penetrating oils on the bolt multiple times over a few days but it still wouldn't budge.
So went to the hardware store and picked up a five foot length of 2" galvanized pipe to use as a cheater bar. Slid that over a 3/4" drive breaker bar and with all my might (and weight) the bolt finally broke loose.
To the point about using penetrating oil: after removing the crank bolt and looking at the threads and the block side of the bolt flange, they were completely dry, not a trace of penetrating oil got behind the bolt or to the threads.
FWIW
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
^This, or bump start and a little propane heat, Walla........
So, finally got back at it today and had some good luck and some back luck.
First off I was able to finally break the pulley bolt. After digging a little I found a company that makes a tool specific for the FZ engine on ebay, they make tools to fit a lot of different engines and reviews were good and they were located only a few hours from me, so I went for it. Showed up today and made the job much easier, even if it did take a cheater bar, the full weight of my body and all my strength pulling on it, and will make putting the bolt back on much easier. You can search ”toyota Lexus FZ-series crankshaft pulley removal tool” if you are interested, the guys name is Mike and he was responsive when I sent him a note, or send me a PM.
Second good - I didn’t strip one screw on the oil pump cover. I soaked them last week, cleaned out he heads, used the JIS #3 bit, tapped them in with a hammer and they broke pretty easy.
The bad - the front end seal would not come out. Read, reread, searched, and tried everything… took my time and tried to be careful, but finally came to the conclusion that it was pretty much fused to the engine. So I spent about 2 hours trying to get it off piece by piece, trying to abound getting anything in engine, but it is still a mess. If anyone has any ideas on how to get the rest of the seal off I am all ears, also would like to know why this happened (age, improper installation, etc…). Is it safe to you anything to remove the rest of this? What happens if I don’t get it completely clean? Am I destined to have a leak here forever now? Can I use anything like acetone or something to help instead of scraping (which inevitably creates metal which is not good in this spot obviously)?
I also notice look slide a PO replaced/tired to replace the seal as there is a small bend from what looks like someone trying to pry the seal out - can see it in pic 3, lower right.
First off I was able to finally break the pulley bolt. After digging a little I found a company that makes a tool specific for the FZ engine on ebay, they make tools to fit a lot of different engines and reviews were good and they were located only a few hours from me, so I went for it. Showed up today and made the job much easier, even if it did take a cheater bar, the full weight of my body and all my strength pulling on it, and will make putting the bolt back on much easier. You can search ”toyota Lexus FZ-series crankshaft pulley removal tool” if you are interested, the guys name is Mike and he was responsive when I sent him a note, or send me a PM.
Second good - I didn’t strip one screw on the oil pump cover. I soaked them last week, cleaned out he heads, used the JIS #3 bit, tapped them in with a hammer and they broke pretty easy.
The bad - the front end seal would not come out. Read, reread, searched, and tried everything… took my time and tried to be careful, but finally came to the conclusion that it was pretty much fused to the engine. So I spent about 2 hours trying to get it off piece by piece, trying to abound getting anything in engine, but it is still a mess. If anyone has any ideas on how to get the rest of the seal off I am all ears, also would like to know why this happened (age, improper installation, etc…). Is it safe to you anything to remove the rest of this? What happens if I don’t get it completely clean? Am I destined to have a leak here forever now? Can I use anything like acetone or something to help instead of scraping (which inevitably creates metal which is not good in this spot obviously)?
I also notice look slide a PO replaced/tired to replace the seal as there is a small bend from what looks like someone trying to pry the seal out - can see it in pic 3, lower right.
alia176
SILVER Star
Dude, that is part of the seal and should be removed! This is your lucky day! Take a look at a brand new crankshaft seal and you will understand what I'm talking about. You didn't actually remove the entire seal just yet.
So what you're telling me have just been too worried I am going to break something that i just wasted an hour of my life? just like the the pulley bolt this thing is really in there then. I was looking at the new one assuming it went over a lip, but now that i am not sitting in the cold staring at it i see what you are saying…. Ok, well i need to get better at researching/reading but at least i can sleep better tonight. Thanks!
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Hose picks are your best friend in this situation,
I'm also a big fan of the Lisle 3/8 in seal puller. However, in the situation with the crankshaft protruding it won't be as useful as axle seals application.
I'm also a big fan of the Lisle 3/8 in seal puller. However, in the situation with the crankshaft protruding it won't be as useful as axle seals application.
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Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
I used this adjustable seal puller on mine and it popped right out! Good work so far your almost there.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
That's a nice one also! I went with the 3/8 for endless angles and on board 80 tool kit reduction.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Also I have not read thru this entire thread but be mindful of the woodruff key (I think that’s what’s it called) In there it’s protruding out on the shaft and can be knocked loose and fall into your timing chain cover.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Ahh yes! Excellent point the FSM is everyone's best friend and I recall it being very clear to be aware of the key falling into the timing chain cover.
Oh, man that would quickly turn into a huge job....
Can also use a flat screwdriver and a hammer to carefully collapse/bend in one side of the remaining seal ring, then it pops right out.
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alia176
SILVER Star
I'm sorry bud but you just earned a life lesson gold star
Use a proper seal puller for this and myriad of other seals on your 80 so I'd invest in one. Joey @WittsEndProducts sells the seal, seal driver and all kinds of other goodness that makes life easier. Incidentally, this seal puller can be used to pull out the axle seals as well.As mentioned already, there's a tiny wedge shape "woodruff" key that lives in the slot of the crashaft and DO NOT LOSE IT!!! Wait, was I unclear? Let me say it again, don't lose that SOB.
Have fun and enjoy the project.
As usual, thanks for the advice/help on this, I am about to make a quick run To Harbor Freight to pick up a cheap seal pulley for $8 to hopefully get this part of my journey out of the way, then it is hopefully reassmble everything. I re-watched OTRAMM video on this again last night and it is amazing how you easy you can forget things once you get working, and how stubborn you can be once you get going. This should have been much easier.
As far as the key, based on my pictures it looks as if it is still there - for now. I thought I read to put the engine at TDC so you had a good view of it, but that seems to be opposite in my case as it is sitting upside down and probably just waiting to fall out at any minute…. Adding a picture for reference for other folks like me.
Edit - I am using Joey‘s kit so at least I was smart about that! And yes, I am going to tackle the oil temp sensor gasket too…
As far as the key, based on my pictures it looks as if it is still there - for now. I thought I read to put the engine at TDC so you had a good view of it, but that seems to be opposite in my case as it is sitting upside down and probably just waiting to fall out at any minute…. Adding a picture for reference for other folks like me.
Edit - I am using Joey‘s kit so at least I was smart about that! And yes, I am going to tackle the oil temp sensor gasket too…
Use some electrical tape to 'tape off' the crank snout so you don't mar it when prying out the remainder of the main seal. The woodruff key is supposed to be a slight interference fit...so it shouldn't just drop out...but don't disturb it when prying out the seal.
There are a number of ways to remove it at this point...but like the 'BillyGoat', I'd be grabbing my Lisle 3/8" puller for this one.
There are a number of ways to remove it at this point...but like the 'BillyGoat', I'd be grabbing my Lisle 3/8" puller for this one.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
If it was me I would eliminate the possibility of that key dropping into your pan.
I would play it safe because on install the key is already working against you facing down. 1 bump from that pulley could just do it.
*Grab that SOB with a pair of pliers before it has its way with you, I feel like I'm looking at a ticking time bomb
*Put crank blot in and rotate crank so the key hole is at 12 o'clock (optimal) or at least 10 o'clock making install easier and having gravity on your side. I'm guessing you should be able to get some movement with spark plugs in before compression works against you.
*Do you have a piece of cardboard in front of your radiator? Protects your hands and your radiator.
As others said enjoy working on your 80
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
@kazanski if your still fighting the oil pump cover putting the Philips bit in a 1/4" ratchet and smacking it with light hammer taps will help get the screw out.
On a few of mine I held the bit with pliers and used a brass hammer to smack the bit on the screw head.
I also have had fantastic luck with a little heat, propane torch on low, not hot just warm.
While your in the pump bust out those feeler gauges and fsm, nice to know your in tolerance and base line for next time.
Enjoy
On a few of mine I held the bit with pliers and used a brass hammer to smack the bit on the screw head.
I also have had fantastic luck with a little heat, propane torch on low, not hot just warm.
While your in the pump bust out those feeler gauges and fsm, nice to know your in tolerance and base line for next time.
Enjoy
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^^This, except I would use the correct size JIS bit rather than Phillips.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Correct, he mentioned he got the kit from Joey and that kit normally has the correct bits.
Of all the things, the pump cover was easiest - used jis bits and tapped in with hammer to seat, used ratchet to pop them. Also helped that i had the radiator out too…
So looks like im back in business, seal puller took all of 5 seconds. Rotated the crank as suggested with the bolt in, cleaned things up and getting back together. Used the OTRAMM method and put some fip around the seal to get it in and a few taps with the 2” pvc fitting. Have my HF 300lb torque wrench ready to go on the bolt.
Thanks again
So looks like im back in business, seal puller took all of 5 seconds. Rotated the crank as suggested with the bolt in, cleaned things up and getting back together. Used the OTRAMM method and put some fip around the seal to get it in and a few taps with the 2” pvc fitting. Have my HF 300lb torque wrench ready to go on the bolt.
Thanks again
