How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics

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Gumby,
Did yours just start leaking or were you in there for another reason? I think mine started leaking in the past month or so. No drips hitting the pavement yet but there is fresh oil below the oil pump cover.

-B-
 
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This pic summarizes how much effort I had to expend to get this done. Note that I had to drill out 6 of 7 screws. Fortunately I had the fan and shroud out already from my hg pm and sc install.

BTW, in at least one place in the TSM it says in bold print "DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANK ANTICLOCKWISE", thus I would recommend to not turn the crank backwards.

Karl
oil_pump_skinny.webp
 
I had mine done a month ago. This write-up was what I read to decide I didn't have the right tools to do it without screwing up something.

-Eddie
 
I have just replaced the belts on the front of the engine and noticed that the oil pump cover is seaping slightly, I run the engine on semi synthetic, the seapage seemed to start after I swapped to semi synthetic.

It still is quite wet and cold here in the UK so I really don't fancy doing the repair just yet, I would just like to ask a couple of questions to see what you guys on here think.

Do you think swapping back to a standard oil will stop or reduce the seapage?

Will it be ok to carry on running the Cruiser for next 6 months or can the o ring fail and start to leak badly at any time?

Regards Mick.
 
Excellent write up, thank you. Replaced the oil pump gasket which was brittle and cracked and replaced the crank seal which was also leaking. Put 300 miles on this weekend and not a drop leaking.

Also upgraded to the blue hub fan clutch and dropping my temperature while climbing freeway hills from 215* down to 195* which was very nice to see.
 
Unless a guy uses a surface plate (machinist's tool) under the abrasive to lap the cover, I have a very hard time believing that it would end up flatter than it started. Some may be warped while off the engine, but soon as the screws are replaced the cover likely snugs back to flat. If a warped cover is ground flat while off, it won't be flat when installed.

As an amateur machinist, I wouldn't mess with it.
 
I have a front engine oil leak and I belive this is the cuprit, I just dont have time to fix it right now. Not to mention the thought of broken screws and tight spaces gives me that "why did I get into this mess" thoughts.

Do you think there is any chance that a good cleaning and some well placed rtv silicone would slow the leak?

Redneck I know
 
I would do the good cleaning and first rule out the distributor O-ring which can leak from above there and is a simple fix. Clean and drive, clean and drive and you should be able to narrow the leak(s) down.

No comment on the "redneck" fix, not sure if it would work.
 
Honestly, if you don't even know the status of the dist-o-ring, run to your local dealer and simply replace it. (I'm all about the discount Dan gives to the mud community, but IMO a $1.50 o-ring is not worth wasting his time over. Your dealer can mark it up 100% and it still isn't going to save you any money to go with Dan)

Replacing the dizzy o-ring fixed ~ 80% of my drippy oil problem and was not even a 1/2 banana job.
 
NaterGator said:
Honestly, if you don't even know the status of the dist-o-ring, run to your local dealer and simply replace it. (I'm all about the discount Dan gives to the mud community, but IMO a $1.50 o-ring is not worth wasting his time over. Your dealer can mark it up 100% and it still isn't going to save you any money to go with Dan)

Replacing the dizzy o-ring fixed ~ 80% of my drippy oil problem and was not even a 1/2 banana job.
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Is there an easy way to replace your D-cap O ring without turning the crankshaft pulley to TDC? This is what the manual says. I want to do this before trying any thing else.

Thanks
 
jditom said:
Is there an easy way to replace your D-cap O ring without turning the crankshaft pulley to TDC? This is what the manual says. I want to do this before trying any thing else.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I pulled the cover, took a picture of the position. Pulled the assembly, swapped the o-ring, and popped everything back together. If you are even a single tooth off it will be visibly apparent. Due to the way the teeth of the helical gear meshes with the worm gear you will have to initially insert the assembly in what appears to be slightly incorrect. As the gears mesh though it will line right back up.

Be sure to score the position of the bolt on the portion of the housing that allows you to tweak the spark timing by rotation the housing. You'll want to position it right back where it was (unless you are pinging, I guess)
 
Rookie2 said:
For those that have done this, how'd you go about removing the crankshaft seal, and what'd you use to tap the new one back in? Much to that part of the job??
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I used a seal pick to pry out the old and a small hammer and piece of brass to tap the new one in. It is very easy maybe 5 minutes.
 
NaterGator said:
I pulled the cover, took a picture of the position. Pulled the assembly, swapped the o-ring, and popped everything back together. If you are even a single tooth off it will be visibly apparent. Due to the way the teeth of the helical gear meshes with the worm gear you will have to initially insert the assembly in what appears to be slightly incorrect. As the gears mesh though it will line right back up.

Be sure to score the position of the bolt on the portion of the housing that allows you to tweak the spark timing by rotation the housing. You'll want to position it right back where it was (unless you are pinging, I guess)
Click to expand...

Thanks, this is what I was thinking but it nice to hear from the experienced ones.
O ring ordered!
 
I did my D-Oring today and got really really lucky. I Used one of my :princess: paint pens to mark the hold down bolt. This was fine until I sprayed brake cleaner on the outside of the case to clean up the old oil.... Guess what?? Brake cleaner takes off paint pen.. I could faintly tell where the washer sat on the d-housing. I put it back together and it started... :clap:. The old O-Ring was brittle and fell right off. I lubed the new one with Sil-Glyde and put her back together... NO leaks so far. one down, 5 more leaks to go..
 
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slamd58 said:
I did my D-Oring today and got really really lucky. I Used one of my :princess: paint pens to mark the hold down bolt. This was fine until I sprayed brake cleaner on the outside of the case to clean up the old oil.... Guess what?? Brake cleaner takes off paint pen.. I could faintly tell where the washer sat on the d-housing. I put it back together and it started... :clap:. The old O-Ring was brittle and fell right off. I lubed the new one with Sil-Glyde and put her back together... NO leaks so far. one down, 5 more leaks to go..
Click to expand...

Now you know why I scored the position a little bit with a flat head screwdriver ;)
 
Did the distrubuter O-ring last night. It was leaking for sure. There is so much stuff in the way that it is hard to tell is was dripping.

Unplug the wire above the D-cap. Unplug the coil wire and move it out of the way. 3 screws and the D-cap is off, also move it out of the way. Take a picture of your rotor location or mark it somehow. Make several scores on the distrubuter bracket to the engine. Take your rotor off. Take off one bolt that holds in your distrubuter and pull it out.

You could see all the oil built up below the distrubuter. Inspection of the o-ring looked flat not round.

This was excellent advice from TOY350 & NaterGator! And a must do if you see any oil coming from that area.

It is about a 1/2:banana: job.
 
After I did my O-ring I noticed it took care of about 90% of the leakage I had. Oil pump cover was next and now I think I'm good.
 
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