Why did you replace the plug as well as the washer? Did the plug damage while removing? Thx, Clay
How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics
- Thread starter Zane
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I bought the plug and washer because they were so inexpensive that I just decided to replace both. No plug damage that I could tell at all!
On the oil you will loose some drops when you replace plug that makes no difference!
How much torque does it take to loosen and re-tighten? I tried removing mine and couldn't get it to budge. I got concerned I would break something and stopped!
You wont break nothing, if you can bench press 250lbs you should be good to go!
What about low weight, high rep?! Awesome thanks! I have a some big friends that can help if I have issues
Just do it, get the right hex size some long pipe and turn baby turn and it will come loose a very easy fix for 15 minutes of your time and less then 10.00 dollars if you use the part numbers from my previous post!
This are the part numbers you will need to get it done!A VERY EASY FIX!
PLUG STRAIGHT SCREW part number 90341-27006 and GASKET # 90430-27005 to be oil leak FREE, mine had a small leak and I had to order these part numbers to complete my JOB.
084runnerltd
SILVER Star
Is torque important on this??? Or just snug it up?? (Talking about the hex screw..not oil pump cover)
Also, would you use any blue loctight?
I just torque the bolt tight enough I did not measure my load, but it is fairly easy no leaks yet and I drive alot on washboard roads, I have my LED Bar loose some of its bolts, but no leaks!
I did not use any loctight evendough it might be a goos idea, I do not see how it would affect it!
I'm going to clean the area as you've stated and watch it. My feeling is the seal on the power steering pump is my problem. Eventually I'll have it all replaced (seals and o-rings, etc) and I'll be completely leak free!
084runnerltd
SILVER Star
Before....the other gunk in the area is from my oil pump cover and crank leak..but u can see the free stuff
Will have "after" pictures soon.
On mine I thought it was the oil pump or the distributor, however I lucked out and it was just the hex nut!
Thanks to the Zane who started the thread in 2005, Texasknowhow for the video, Houston FZJ80 for the Torx screws, and CDAN for OEM parts. I've tolerated this leak for far to long, and was tired of the pile of oil soaked cardboard on my garage floor.
The bump method to remove the crank bolt worked so well it was silly. Tapping the phillips bits into the screws was all that was needed, not a single stripped screw. The 2" PVC coupling worked on the main seal installation as if it was made for the job, and protects the crank from the hammer.
Lastly, the deep 14mm socket on the flywheel bolt to hold the crank to get 305 ft/lbs of torque. I don't see a problem with this method, but I did not like that the socket could slide off the bolt and I thought it needed support. Using scrap wood and a shim, I felt better that the socket would not move, and it didn't.
The value of this website and the 80 forum is not to be taken for granted, big thanks.
The bump method to remove the crank bolt worked so well it was silly. Tapping the phillips bits into the screws was all that was needed, not a single stripped screw. The 2" PVC coupling worked on the main seal installation as if it was made for the job, and protects the crank from the hammer.
Lastly, the deep 14mm socket on the flywheel bolt to hold the crank to get 305 ft/lbs of torque. I don't see a problem with this method, but I did not like that the socket could slide off the bolt and I thought it needed support. Using scrap wood and a shim, I felt better that the socket would not move, and it didn't.
The value of this website and the 80 forum is not to be taken for granted, big thanks.
oi leak...
I did the oil pump seal a month ago along with the distributor o ring and I though I was leek free but over time something just kept leaking over top/from behind the oil pump cover. Then I did the valve cover gasket and it was much better. But sill the slow oil leak persists. What else is back there? Hex nut???...
By the way a big thanks to Texasknowhow
I did the oil pump seal a month ago along with the distributor o ring and I though I was leek free but over time something just kept leaking over top/from behind the oil pump cover. Then I did the valve cover gasket and it was much better. But sill the slow oil leak persists. What else is back there? Hex nut???...
By the way a big thanks to Texasknowhow
Videos are helpful sometimes!
You guys are welcome for the video… I love hearing of more folks getting it done and enjoying these great machines we all love. For the other leak, it may be what I've got going on, the seal between the power steering pump and the engine front covers. It has an o-ring type gasket/seal as well and I'm almost sure thats where my last leak is located. I'll video that fix when I get to it. Should be soon… don't want to do that in the freezing cold.
Clay
You guys are welcome for the video… I love hearing of more folks getting it done and enjoying these great machines we all love. For the other leak, it may be what I've got going on, the seal between the power steering pump and the engine front covers. It has an o-ring type gasket/seal as well and I'm almost sure thats where my last leak is located. I'll video that fix when I get to it. Should be soon… don't want to do that in the freezing cold.
Clay
The photo helped me understand the scrap wood trick, but I like it. I was thinking that the socket would come off that bolt too, but it held up for me. That thing wasn't going anywhere with your extra block tho… nice work!
I read in previous posts of sockets splitting, etc. If the socket stays square on the bolt, that possibility would be minimized. It's not pretty, but it did the job, piece of mind for sure. In a perfect world I would fab a tool to hold the balancer as Toyota intended.
If the truck is supercharged you can't hold the crank pulley with the factory-type bar. You have to do something like the socket trick or wrap a chain wrench around the pulley, but not the supercharger pulley because it is aluminum.
