HOW TO: remove your roof rack using a parking garage

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I just bought some off fleabay. It should be here by this weekend, and that is the soonest I need it.

Maybe you could check an industrial supply store or maybe even a metal/welding supply shop since you need it asap.

Worst case, you could tape it until the faststeel comes in the mail.
 
Well I went to Harbor Freight and bought the JB Weld equivalent. It looks likes the same exact stuff. Even the instructions and images used for the instructions are the same. Leading me to believe that they are both made by the same company and JB Weld just OEMs it. I would have been doing this all day today but just my luck I was bit by either an insect or a spider early this morning and now my elbow looks like I am smuggling a grapefruit. :bang:

And its supposed to start raining tomorrow late night now. :whoops:
 
Tape 'em over with something. I don't think you want water in your headliner....
 
Wow! Must have been a shocker. As my ex father-in-law once told me: "Beat your wife hard and often, you don't know why but she does". Only kidding, of course, I'm sure your wife was unhappy too. :cheers:Ned
 
Not sure how to respond to this ^^^

Anyhow, I finished my repair. The ONLY way to do it right is to drop the headliner. If you have a later model 80 then this is actually a WHOLE LOT easier than I thought it was going to be. I dropped the headliner, did the repairs and had the headliner back up in under two hours.
 
Not sure how to respond to this ^^^

Anyhow, I finished my repair. The ONLY way to do it right is to drop the headliner. If you have a later model 80 then this is actually a WHOLE LOT easier than I thought it was going to be. I dropped the headliner, did the repairs and had the headliner back up in under two hours.

Not sure how to respond either.

But congrats on the repair.

Do you think I could properly patch the roof holes without dropping the headliner if I am fortunate enough to get the bolts out without having them spin on the nutserts?
 
Do you think I could properly patch the roof holes without dropping the headliner if I am fortunate enough to get the bolts out without having them spin on the nutserts?

in one word... Yes

In fact I would recommend to do it BEFORE something bone headed happens
 
I went ahead and got JB Welds equivalent of Fast Steel. Its the same stuff. It comes in what looks like a tootsie roll. You pinch off a small bit and then knead the two colors together until the color is uniform. Then you literally have about 3 minutes to work with before this stuff turns into a rock.

The first step is to get everything clean then scuff up the paint around the nutsert. Next step is to drop the headliner. In a newer 80 this is pretty painless. Just remove all 4 seat belts at the pillar, remove the pinch weld molding around the hatch and the rear doors. Remove the aw s*** handles. Remove the cargo light. Remove the 5 circle clips. Loosen up the side panels above the wheel wells and then remove the plastic pieces that are on the C and D pillars. Then just use a chair to prop up the headliner on one side. I only took off up to the front handles. If you let it drop too far you can start to hear tearing. I can only guess this is bad. So I stopped dropping until I heard it. But there was plenty of space to work with. From underneath I used a hand held curved dolly that I picked up from Harbor Freight and then used a mallet up top. With some minor pounding I was able to get the area mostly flat again.

All I did then is push the JB Weld stuff into each hole and then flattened it out in the underside of the roof. I then wet my fingers and then smoothed out the stuff. Its much easier to work with if you use some water with it. In some of the pictures, it shows what it looks like before I smoothed it out.

Putting everything back together was cake.

It dries solid in about 10 mins. There is no way this stuff is coming off. Its there forever. Now I could have done more to make it smoother. I could have completely removed the nutsert. I could have ground it down. I could have worked the metal a little more but I really didn't want to chance it and besides it doesn't matter because I will eventually be Line-Xing it anyway. I tried to have it done today but no one could do it today and I wanted it done before it started raining. At this point I "could" leave it just as is and no worse the wear or I could eventually take care of it. Luckily this stuff gives me the choice.
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in one word... Yes

In fact I would recommend to do it BEFORE something bone headed happens

That is the plan for this weekend. The steelfast was shipped today. I will probably start on the rack removal tomorrow afternoon after my last exam:cheers:.

However, I'm still undecided on which type of bedliner to use.


Edit: Thanks for the pics.

I'm wondering if there is a possibility that it could rust from the inside out in a humid climate like the midwest if I don't drop the headliner and form the steelfast around the hole from the underside.

Did you rough up the underside of the roof too?
 
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That is the plan for this weekend. The steelfast was shipped today. I will probably start on the rack removal tomorrow afternoon after my last exam:cheers:.

However, I'm still undecided on which type of bedliner to use.

Well I'm going Line-x because he is pretty close to me and the guy I am going to does all of ICONs/TLCs vehicles so the guys there know their way around LandCruisers. What I am still unsure of is whether to do the barcodes or one solid box.
 
Well I'm going Line-x because he is pretty close to me and the guy I am going to does all of ICONs/TLCs vehicles so the guys there know their way around LandCruisers. What I am still unsure of is whether to do the barcodes or one solid box.

I'd have used a grinder to take down the rough spots, Fast Steel (yes, they have it at Home Depot) or equivalent to fill in the holes, and a quart of liner of any kind in a color close enough to cover the feet of the roof rack and the Fast Steel.

There is no reason to go nuts on your roof with liner if it isn't already rusting.
 
Don't own a grinder and I wanted to work in getting the liner done with the 60 I am already doing.
 
Don't own a grinder and I wanted to work in getting the liner done with the 60 I am already doing.

I'm not saying you didn't do it right, just that you don't have to do the whole roof or a barcode. You could just do the actual roof rack feet so that there are no visual considerations at all.

Will save you some coin to boot. I did my entire rig with a roller and you'd never know it wasn't sprayed on - you can do the roof rack feet over a couple of :beer: for $40 if the coin matters and you don't want to get into a lined look.
 
You might want to see if one of the local shops can paint match. I have a friend that owns a spray in bedliner company and he is going to spray my fender flares and roof and color match it to the vehicle. For UV protection, he sprays factory paint over the top immediately after the color matched bedliner material. From two feet away you can not tell that it is bedlined. Here is a link to the company's website, unfortunately they don't have dealers in California, but some other Brand may color match as well. B & T Bedliner Company, the best spray-in bed liners, Our Dealers

FYI, There are two different types of spray in bedliner systems; high pressure hot, and low pressure cold. The low pressure takes up to 24 hours to cure and is not as durable. The roll on or rattle can stuff is not nearly as durable. He spilt 5 gallons of diesel in the bed of his F250 and it sat there for a week and did not hurt it at all. I spilt a small bit of brake fluid in my p/u with a Linex and it peeled off like nothing.

Good luck. Looks like I need to let my wife drive mine.:bang:
 
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That is the plan for this weekend. The steelfast was shipped today. I will probably start on the rack removal tomorrow afternoon after my last exam:cheers:.

Hey Nicholas, while you have the headliner down.

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One of my hoses was barely hanging on.
 

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