How to remove molded plastic tailgate liner? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Hothonda
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
You got it. Best to use a pry tool with a fork so you can pry directly on each clip from under the edge.
If your pry tool is metal I would tape it with painters tape to prevent scratching.
If you have nylon/plastic set I would use one that looks like the one in the middle of this pic.
The one to the left of middle might work well too, but I'd start with a smaller one.
From the popout in the previous pic you can see the clips should be close to the edge and accessible with a pry tool. The popout shows the panel attached to the clip on top and the clip going into the tail gate on the bottom. You should be able to get a pry tool between the two.
If your pry tool is metal I would tape it with painters tape to prevent scratching.
If you have nylon/plastic set I would use one that looks like the one in the middle of this pic.
The one to the left of middle might work well too, but I'd start with a smaller one.
From the popout in the previous pic you can see the clips should be close to the edge and accessible with a pry tool. The popout shows the panel attached to the clip on top and the clip going into the tail gate on the bottom. You should be able to get a pry tool between the two.
Last edited:
What about the upper section of the lift gate? Want to tap license plate light wires there. Can someone post instructions or a picture diagram? Thx
Check out this thread for actual pics.
Project Fauxverlander 200 Series Land Cruiser Build Thread
Project Fauxverlander 200 Series Land Cruiser Build Thread
It's time to cross the t's and dot the i's on this build. I've made very little progress on finishing this up in the past six months, life has been busy and I've just been a bit apathetic about making some key decisions and really making the time. Quite trivial things to decide really but I needed to come up with a plan on how I'll finish out the electrical, lighting and communication gear. I've liked the layout I have in the 100 Series, USB/12V outlets at the rear drawers, behind the 2nd row and in the center console. Kenwood 2M, CB, dual batteries using the National Luna kit and an ARB compressor under the hood.
Tearing apart the rear hatch to add switch & lights
I've set up the interior to allow for sleeping inside the vehicle, it's not a two-person solution so when the Mrs. comes along we bring a tent or have historically mounted a RTT. However if I'm rolling solo or have friends along that can fend for themselves... the interior rocks. However the 200 has a major drawback, like really major. From the inside of the vehicle there is no way to exit through the rear hatch. So if you're sleeping in the back you have to maneuver out the 2nd row doors. Certainly not impossible but a pain and when my morning camp ritual has generally included popping the hatch, dropping the tailgate and sitting down on the tailgate to grab brekky out of the fridge, all without even putting shoes on... it has been missed with the 200. Oddly some non-US 200 Series can have the switch so sourcing parts and integrating the wiring isn't a big deal. My pal Johnny installed a switch in his last year and sorted out the two exterior hatch switch wires you need to tap into, easily done. While I was in there I figured it was time to add a handle to make pulling the hatch shut easier and do something about lighting in the rear.
Let there be light!
The PFRAN LED replacement bulb kit in the 100 Series has been great, but lighting over the tail gate was always lackluster (no stock light there at all), I added a pair of battery powered LED lights that were a stop gap but never really left me super happy. I knew I wanted something different on the 200 so I hooked up with Pablo @ Equipt and snagged some nice National Luna LED lights. I probably went overkill but the lights have multiple settings and whereas they aren't hitting you in eyes when turned on, the light thusfar has been welcome.
The finished product
Illuminated rear exit switch
Only held on by white trim clips. No bolts/screws/fasteners.
As you can see there is a top, two sides, and bottom to the interior of the hatch.
Note: Photo references a screw driver. I'd always default to taped plastic pry tools first.
All photos came from here>
GSIC - Global Service Information Center
Note: Photo references a screw driver. I'd always default to taped plastic pry tools first.
All photos came from here>
GSIC - Global Service Information Center
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #10
Thanks for the info NC237 !
Once I got a couple popped out (plastic pry tool) - followed the surround of the liner, lifted up by hand &
the rest came out easy. Reinstall was a breeze.
This forum & members are fantastic
Once I got a couple popped out (plastic pry tool) - followed the surround of the liner, lifted up by hand &
the rest came out easy. Reinstall was a breeze.
This forum & members are fantastic
I actually took this pic when I swapped to LED's. Don't think I ever posted it.
Thanks NC237!!
