How to plumb a manual line lock inside a rig?

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slickrock

slickrock

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Lemoore, CA (south of Fresno) / Cortes Island, B.C
I am debating on an electronic line lock or a manual pressure one. The electronic is an easy install because it is just a wired switch in the cab. A manual one is different. They have to physically be pushed to lock and located next to the driver. I Was thinking of the manual one since I can leave it locked without worry of draining the battery.

Has anyone ever plumbed a manual line lock inside their rig and can show me a picture or tow of where you put it and how it is plumbed?

I attached a pic of a manual line lock for reference.
109d_12.webp
 
Dan-


The link lock needs to be between the master cylinder and the brake component (caliper or cylinder).

Mount the valve where you want it, fabricate new brake lines and bleed the system/check for leaks.

Really, it is not that difficult.
 
Dan:
I mounted a manual linelock in my 74 FJ40. As Poser states, you just decide where you want to mount it in your cab, connect up your incoming and outgoing steel brake lines to the linelock, and bend those lines to have them come back to connect between your master cylinder and the brake componenent. I put mine between the rear brakes and the master cylinder, so it locks the rear only. As a word of warning, the linelocked brakes will bleed off pressure over time, and you do not want to park your cruiser on a steep hill or driveway using the line lock as the only device to prevent a runaway vehicle (I know this from experience, though I was lucky and no harm was done). I use this as a theft deterrent, so I won't post pictures here, but send me a pm if you need more info.
 
I put mine by the ashtray. I used -3 SS flex lines through a bulkhead fitting on the firewall ro make replacement easier. First one lasted quite a few years, just replaced it a couple months ago. I can try to get a pic tomorrow.
 
Hi All,

That is just a great idea never thought about it, wish it would be available here, never mind i will find and buy them some-how, ha ha.

Thanks for the idea. I did look up the installation and working and it is quite easy to do....

QUOTE
Zukaholic
Offline
Loc: Winston-Salem, NC
Joined Dec 2002
Re: Manual Line lock
« Reply #4 on: Tuesday, April 27, 2004, 05:14:02 AM »
Those are electric though, I need manual...
I found these at JCWhitney...

IN-LINE HYDRAULIC BRAKE LOCK
Supplements standard emergency parking
Holds any vehicle with hydraulic brakes (cars, trucks, forklift, motor home, trailer, dune buggy, etc) where you put it.
Eliminates strain on engine and transmission; removes all pounding on ring and pinion gears when trailering a second vehicle. Keep stick-shift car from rolling on hill while feet are on gas and clutch. Excellent for parking on steep grades. Uses line pressure of hydraulic system to hold brakes locked—step on foot brake, push brake lock down, release and it’s locked. Step on foot brake again and it opens automatically. Not for use with silicone brake fluid.
In-line hydraulic brake lock for all hydraulic systems that use silicone fluid is also availble.
Note: Locks intended for off-road use only.

But there is no part number and I called and they young lady at the counter couldn't help me so she told me to call back tomorrow...
Logged
The only thing we have to fear is fear itself
psychowheeling.net
UNQUOTE

Many thanks,
Andre
 
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slickrock said:
I am debating on an electronic line lock or a manual pressure one. The electronic is an easy install because it is just a wired switch in the cab. A manual one is different. They have to physically be pushed to lock and located next to the driver. I Was thinking of the manual one since I can leave it locked without worry of draining the battery.

Has anyone ever plumbed a manual line lock inside their rig and can show me a picture or tow of where you put it and how it is plumbed?

I attached a pic of a manual line lock for reference.
Click to expand...


I think that pic is of a proportioning valve, could be wrong, below is a link to MICO LEVER LOCKS, an inline lever actuated wheel brake , just as poser stated bolt antwhere and run the line to and from. stay posted to my build as this is my weekend task.

Product Overview and Available Literature | MICO, Inc.

Below is a link to a brake fitting shop that had EVERY available brake fitting needed both metric and standard. They've also got adaptors.

Classic Tube - PreBent and Custom Stainless and OE Brake Lines and more...
 
burnttoastburgos said:
I think that pic is of a proportioning valve, could be wrong, below is a link to MICO LEVER LOCKS, an inline lever actuated wheel brake , just as poser stated bolt antwhere and run the line to and from. stay posted to my build as this is my weekend task.

Product Overview and Available Literature | MICO, Inc.

Below is a link to a brake fitting shop that had EVERY available brake fitting needed both metric and standard. They've also got adaptors.

Classic Tube - PreBent and Custom Stainless and OE Brake Lines and more...
Click to expand...

Hoolly jumping junipers batman, 1500.00 for a brake! Thats crazy, but a cool idea.

Ed, yeah I know. I was at work and doing a hundred things at once and still couldn't get the cruiser out of my head. After I posted the question about rethreading, I realized I should have put it in the same post but couldn't get back on the computer quick enough to delete.
 
Here is how I did mine. I ran flex from the prop valve to the bulkead fitting then flex to the line lock and back to the other bulkhead fitting then to the residual valve on down to the block on the frame.
bulkhead brake.webp
prop valve.webp
jaymar.webp
 
slickrock said:
Hoolly jumping junipers batman, 1500.00 for a brake! Thats crazy, but a cool idea.
Click to expand...

Yeah.comes with a free pair of tittie dancers, BWAHG!!!!!

No, you must've looked at the most expensive one, mine just arrived totaled $227 with shipping, still a little steep for just a lever but a very fine quality product. keep looking at different sites on google, and make sure you look for the one that is brake fluid not hydraulic.

Here ya go $214.99 brandy new
Lever Lock - Mico® Brake Locks
 
switch manufacturer?

Bret said:
Here is how I did mine. I ran flex from the prop valve to the bulkead fitting then flex to the line lock and back to the other bulkhead fitting then to the residual valve on down to the block on the frame.
Click to expand...

Whose switch did you use? I like the push/pull as opposed to the lever.
 
Poly perf. has great price on line lock. For fj40 a nice mounting is just left of steering column and mounted on the flat part of dash . Hard to descibe but if you see where the column bolts are I mounted mine just left of that and screwed it on the same way, so the handle points straight at you.
 
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That is actually who I got my last one from. The first time I think I ordered it from JC Whitney, it lasted over 5 years before it started to fail. When it failed it wouldn't lock, I never had it come unlocked once locked, even left alone for weeks. The only caution I have is don"t mash really hard on the brakes to lock it, once lockedt you have to push just a little harder for it to unlock. If you push hard you have to put quite a bit of pressure on the pedal and pull a little on the knob.
 
The keyed brake lock I have locks both the front and rear brakes. It holds pressure until unlocked with the key. It came with fittings that require a double flair although it would be easy to convert to SS Swagelok fittings. It is designed to mount on a panel such as the firewall or floor board. I intend to install it at the back of the glove box.
 
bsevans said:
The keyed brake lock I have locks both the front and rear brakes. It holds pressure until unlocked with the key. It came with fittings that require a double flair although it would be easy to convert to SS Swagelok fittings. It is designed to mount on a panel such as the firewall or floor board. I intend to install it at the back of the glove box.
Click to expand...


got some info or a pic on the keyed brake? I'd like to research that!
 
bsevans said:
The keyed brake lock I have locks both the front and rear brakes. It holds pressure until unlocked with the key. It came with fittings that require a double flair although it would be easy to convert to SS Swagelok fittings. It is designed to mount on a panel such as the firewall or floor board. I intend to install it at the back of the glove box.
Click to expand...

I don't think I will be able to do front and rear unless I do two locks because front is disk and rear is drum. different pressures to lock them.
 
I think a bigger problem is the dual master. You would need one for the front line and one for the rear line. You could swap the master to a single but I thought they went to duals as a safety so if you lost front or rear you would still have the other circuit to stop with.
 
burnttoastburgos said:
got some info or a pic on the keyed brake? I'd like to research that!
Click to expand...

I'll look for the box in my "projects to do" storage containers. I will post a photo of the unit and a photo of the installation sheet that also has the manufacturer. I'll try to get this posted this weekend.
 
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