How to make rare m5 .9 pitch screws (found on early-67) PICS included

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Sacramento, CA
So I have a 1967 Fj40 and was working on my rear lift up gate. I noticed the back panel on the inside was missing all but a few screws. I went to my local hardware store and found the ones I had were NOT M5x.8 nor were they anything standard. After doing some more research, and using my thread checker, I found mine were in fact M5x.9. This pitch went by way of the dodo bird as M5x.8 became ISO in 1968. So, that leaves us early cruiser owners with some oddballs scattered on our rigs.

I was initially going to tap mine with m6 but found that the heads were too large for the inside rear handle. They simply looked funky as they sat too high (they are countersunk heads). I searched high and low and only found one small vintage Japanese motorcycle shop offering them overseas. I looked at all the usual online nut and bolt shops and nobody had them...not even SOR. Everyone only offers M5x.8... trust me, I looked EVERYWHERE.

However, I noticed a guy selling some "remade" ones on ebay for like 5 bucks each. I decided to try and make some myself and found it to be incredibly easy. Here is how to do it on your own....

-Buy standard 10-24 screws in desired length and head type. This standard thread pitch is the closest to M5x.9.
-Buy a M5x.9 die on Amazon (they have them)
-Put the die in a vise upside down and clamp it down fairly tight. You need it upside down to completely re-thread the screw.
-Use cutting oil with the standard screws and start working in and backing it out until you finish. Take your time.
-It will not take much force but you will need to push down fairly hard
-NOTE: I used stainless and found it to be really soft.

Here are some pics:

Mine were located here....
image1 (2).webp


Here is another look at the rear hatch. You need 8 screws for the cover and 2 for the handle...
image2 (3).webp



Here is one of the old screws and my thread checker...
image3 (1).webp


Note the die upside down. I am working the 10-24 screw into the M5x.9 die...
image4 (1).webp


Here is the finished screw. The screw on the top is the one I made. It works flawlessly. I would recommend doing this for finish pieces and nothing substantial (i.e. engine parts, etc)...
image5.webp


Hope you guys like the thread! :banana::banana::beer::beer:

-JV
 
The heater blower inlet on the passenger side of the cowl also uses the .09 screw. The windshield to top catches on the 45 also use the .09

And the early SD40 carburetor air horn screws.

In other words, lots of early cruiser owners could use these.

Josh, I'm just curious. In my imagination ( don't ask!) I think I've seen screw blanks available. Did you try looking into that?

Mark
 
Nice trick. Better to use the tap the normal way to do the threads and then you can flip it over to re tap to catch the few threads near the head.

I initially did that and found that it was easy enough to start it upside down because the 10-24 threads are close enough


...via IH8MUD app
 
The heater blower inlet on the passenger side of the cowl also uses the .09 screw. The windshield to top catches on the 45 also use the .09

And the early SD40 carburetor air horn screws.

In other words, lots of early cruiser owners could use these.

Josh, I'm just curious. In my imagination ( don't ask!) I think I've seen screw blanks available. Did you try looking into that?

Mark

Hi Mark,

I tried finding blanks but didn't see any. You shouldn't have told me you have seen them, now I have to hunt them down!

Josh


...via IH8MUD app
 
CORRECTION on threads. To create M5 .9 threads you will need to use 10-32 screws and NOT 10-24. I made a few today and realized this.
 
They are certainly expensive at almost $4 each. I do like the idea of making them for pennies on the dollar.
 
Thanks for this thread. Looks like I'll be making some M5x0.9 machine screws soon. As I posted in the other thread....the back cover of the early heaters (the one you remove to get to the heater core and defrost diverter) are M5x0.9 - 8mm long.
 
Cad ones were a little long. Just FYI.
 
I ordered the reg zinc and still might have to cut them down? I have the M5x0.9 tap and die so I can clean them up either way.
 
when i ordered there were only 2 options.. 12mm and 25mm the 25mm were too long in many applications and needed to be cut down. Now that they offer 14mm in yellow that looks like the best option to buy.
 
I would cut the ones that are sold on the site if you are using them for the heater as they are buttonhead.

The ones in the back of the hardtop are countersunk. I would recommend just making those. It's super easy and pretty enjoyable to make.
 
I would cut the ones that are sold on the site if you are using them for the heater as they are buttonhead.

The ones in the back of the hardtop are countersunk. I would recommend just making those. It's super easy and pretty enjoyable to make.

Excellent advice! I haven't made it to the hard top restoration, yet...just trying to get my heat to work and fix all of the coolant leaks at this point. But, as I fix things, I'm trying to keep them as original as possible.

Now, if only I could find a new pull knob for the defroster on the old style heater?!!! :) I'm probably going to have to make a substitute to get me through.
 
So I have a 1967 Fj40 and was working on my rear lift up gate. I noticed the back panel on the inside was missing all but a few screws. I went to my local hardware store and found the ones I had were NOT M5x.8 nor were they anything standard. After doing some more research, and using my thread checker, I found mine were in fact M5x.9. This pitch went by way of the dodo bird as M5x.8 became ISO in 1968. So, that leaves us early cruiser owners with some oddballs scattered on our rigs.

I was initially going to tap mine with m6 but found that the heads were too large for the inside rear handle. They simply looked funky as they sat too high (they are countersunk heads). I searched high and low and only found one small vintage Japanese motorcycle shop offering them overseas. I looked at all the usual online nut and bolt shops and nobody had them...not even SOR. Everyone only offers M5x.8... trust me, I looked EVERYWHERE.

However, I noticed a guy selling some "remade" ones on ebay for like 5 bucks each. I decided to try and make some myself and found it to be incredibly easy. Here is how to do it on your own....

-Buy standard 10-24 screws in desired length and head type. This standard thread pitch is the closest to M5x.9.
-Buy a M5x.9 die on Amazon (they have them)
-Put the die in a vise upside down and clamp it down fairly tight. You need it upside down to completely re-thread the screw.
-Use cutting oil with the standard screws and start working in and backing it out until you finish. Take your time.
-It will not take much force but you will need to push down fairly hard
-NOTE: I used stainless and found it to be really soft.

Here are some pics:

Mine were located here....
View attachment 1188893

Here is another look at the rear hatch. You need 8 screws for the cover and 2 for the handle...
View attachment 1188894


Here is one of the old screws and my thread checker...
View attachment 1188895

Note the die upside down. I am working the 10-24 screw into the M5x.9 die...
View attachment 1188896

Here is the finished screw. The screw on the top is the one I made. It works flawlessly. I would recommend doing this for finish pieces and nothing substantial (i.e. engine parts, etc)...
View attachment 1188897

Hope you guys like the thread! :banana::banana::beer::beer:

-JV
Other vehicles that require this size- the Honda S600/S800s from 1964-1970. I wish I had found this site earlier- it would have saved me trying to jam m5-.8 threads into the holes. There are zinc plated m5-0.9 for sale on Ebay, but they don't match the look of steel. Harbor Freight sells a metric tap and die kit which amazingly has m5-0.9 tools for about $17.00 which is a bargain. Can't wait to try this.
 
Other vehicles that require this size- the Honda S600/S800s from 1964-1970. I wish I had found this site earlier- it would have saved me trying to jam m5-.8 threads into the holes. There are zinc plated m5-0.9 for sale on Ebay, but they don't match the look of steel. Harbor Freight sells a metric tap and die kit which amazingly has m5-0.9 tools for about $17.00 which is a bargain. Can't wait to try this.
Amazon product ASIN B00CTS9200
If you don't want the whole set
 
Other vehicles that require this size- the Honda S600/S800s from 1964-1970. I wish I had found this site earlier- it would have saved me trying to jam m5-.8 threads into the holes. There are zinc plated m5-0.9 for sale on Ebay, but they don't match the look of steel. Harbor Freight sells a metric tap and die kit which amazingly has m5-0.9 tools for about $17.00 which is a bargain. Can't wait to try this.
That HF set is junk. I have a lot of good HF tools, but the tap and die set is not one of them.
 

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