How to center and adjust axial play when installing Univeral joints (U-joints) (1 Viewer)

[Kernal]

This is not meant to be a step-by-step how to do it thread, it's more meant as a place to discuss the correct (?best) method to install U-joints including the methods/procedures to center the U joints in the yolks and adjust axial play.

There's plenty of videos on you-tubby showing people replacing U-joints although most seem to rely on a BFH and not much technical skill.

Background:

Anyone who has replaced U-joints on their 80 Series with a new Toyota part knows when they opened up the Toyota box (Spider Kit) there's a small instruction sheet included and that sheet states to check for axial play to ensure it doesn't exceed 0.002". And if there's too much play to use different thickness snap rings (2.00mm, 2.03mm, 2.06mm, 2.09mm) to adjust the play.


Long Story:

In the middle of rebuilding the rear driveshaft on my 97 FZJ80 with ~250,000 miles on the vehicle. This was started only as a PM as I had the driveshaft out, but felt slight notchiness on one joint/yolk so decided to go ahead and rebuild/service the whole driveshaft. I wasn't getting any vibration however from that shaft.

It's going to take me awhile to load up photos (I'm not finished with the job yet due to weather) so in the meantime I'll post up the link to a very good series of instructional videos done by an instructor at Weber State University Automotive Tech Dept. Some of these are long videos but the instructor goes step-by-step and by the book, seems obvious this guy knows his stuff.

What is most apparent is the vast difference in how this instructor goes about it (takes longer to do of course because he's explaining everything to the "students" compared to how most people just take a BFH (or vise), pound/press in the bearing caps, slide in the snap rings included in the kit, hit the yolks with a hammer a few times, and consider it done.

So which is the best (correct) method to install U-joints?? That is the question (watch the videos first).

And part of that process: how to best center the joints and remove Axial play.

This initial link is to the first video of a seven part series (each successive part pops up in a window when video is completed). When you've finished watching them all and pass the written exam (closed book) you'll get a Certificate in the mail along with a coupon good for a 30 pack of Lite beer to do with whatever you're pretty little heart desires
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IMHO this is an excellent video series on the topic.







Watch all the videos but here's Part 6 discussing installing the U-joints into the yolks:

Universal Joints - Part 6: Proper U-Joint Installation

Weber State University (WSU) - Automotive Technology Department - Transmission Lab. This is the sixth in a series of videos on universal joints, constant vel...

www.youtube.com

And next is Part 7 discussing Centering and setting up Axial play to spec:

 

[Kernal]

Reserved for blah blah blah

 

[Kernal]

Reserved for more blah and photos

 

[Kernal]

Even more photos and blah when I finish the driveshaft rebuild.

Remember to watch the videos before commenting. We all know how to do it with a BFH or vise (just watch the you tube gorillas). This is meant as a discussion about maybe doing it a better way.

 

[Malleus]

When I went to work for Dana Off-Highway, I was subjected to the mandatory Charlie Dana/Clarence Spicer history lesson (which has probably been since replaced with the mandatory gender identity training). I know far more about universal joints than I ever wanted, or needed, to know.

Farmers use hammers to install everything. They're cheap, they have multiple uses, and can be used to persuade stubborn farmboys to "get with the program". Those farmboys, haven been beaten in to submission, leave the farm to become mechanics, who, like their forebears, use hammers for everything.

The only tool to use to install any bearing is a press, since it's confined to moved linearly and therefore won't damage the bearing or its housing by inserting it in a position other than coaxially with the bore centerline. Screw presses are easiest to use (vises, pullers, etc), because moving a hydraulic press horizontally under a truck is a PITA. They are used on assembly lines because they're faster than screw presses.

 

[ERG80]

My proper way:
This to disassemble: 42890 U-Joint Puller, Small - https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/42890

Clean everything.

A vise and a proper sized socket to gently press the caps back in.

Grease and go!

 

[fjbj40]

Great video! Watching them now

 

[aztoyman]

The "right way" is always the right way. However, it's not the only way. The person doing it is going to use what they have available, tools and knowledge wise to get it done.

"Discussion" posts like this are good I think because it combines the experience of others and shares that knowledge. Gives guys like me anyway a chance to learn something I didn't know. Another tool or method to add to my own arsenal.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

I've done them with a ball joint press. Much better than a hammer but also way more expensive than a hammer.

 

[ZetheGSD]

I agree with the thought that there are multiple ways to skin a cat. As far as installing U-Joints I have heard OEM engineers mention that a press is ideal, but then another engineer say the complete opposite. As far as I am concerned the press method is superior to the hammer as you have a clear lateral direction that force is applied and is ideal to keeping the joint seated in its bore correctly.

But to counter that point, if you are using a press and the cap becomes stubborn and doesn’t want to “pop” loose you will easily bend the yoke of the driveshaft and now the shaft is useless. So to avoid this I would recommend a good old fashioned ball joint press tool with an impact. The impact forces help to un-seat stubborn rusted caps without bending the ears of the driveshaft. Plus you can “feel” if things are super bound up better than if things are laying in a press. Just my .02…

 

[Malleus]

It's always a bad idea to pound on a cantilever without backing it up; that's how diving boards work. The "ears" will always bend unless there's something behind them to prevent it, regardless of whether an impact tool or press is used. The yokes are either cast or forged and both types have stresses in them. Pounding on them tends to relieve those stresses, in ways that are not always predictable.

 

[landtank]

The biggest challenge when Installing the cups is getting them to the half way point. Once there they will slide smoothly regardless which means you use.

For me I use an 8oz ball peen hammer to start with. Tap around the edge of the cap in a circular motion. The cap will never lock in place and you won’t dislodge the needle bearings.

Once you are past the halfway point you can safely drive the cap home by hitting the cap dead center.

People who use the BFH tend to lock the cap in place and then just drive past the bind damaging the bore, not good.

 

[Kernal]

Adding a link to Part 6 and 7 of the Series discussing how to first install then center the U-joint and get the Axial play to spec (using different thickness snap rings). He's working on a Spicer joint with external snap rings but the theory is the same for internal snap rings as found on factory 80 series driveshafts.

Added this link to post #1 but here it is also:

Part 6: Installation:



Part 7: Centering



Another short discussion about centering a U-joint and axial end play:

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