How to adjust 2F AC belt tension (2 Viewers)

[rjs78]

Mine has starting squealing like a banshee (at least this is what I imagine a screaming banshee sounds like.) 3-belt 87 with compressor on passenger side, under alternator, and a tensioner under the compressor. Have been searching (forum, FSMs, SOR diagrams) but can't find the procedure. Found notes about the compressor being solid-mounted, to adjust the tensioner which has reverse-thread. I'm not with the truck this second, but when I last looked this morning, I thought sure there was a belt adjustment bolt on top of the compressor. I haven't touched anything yet. I'm sure the procedure/steps are on here somewhere, if anyone can point me there, I am most thankful.

Thanks, RJ

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, First you have to loosen the nut in the center of the belt tensioner ,then you can turn the long bolt from underneath the cruiser, use a long extension. Mike

 

[rjs78]

Hi, First you have to loosen the nut in the center of the belt tensioner ,then you can turn the long bolt from underneath the cruiser, use a long extension. Mike

Thanks Mike. Does one or both of these bolts/nuts have a lefthand thread?

Thanks, RJ

 

[2mbb]

no left-hand thread. righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.

 

[rjs78]

OK, I am missing something here, or as my Dad used to say "if it was a snake it would have bit you by now." The top pic is the compressor from above, I can see two short pivot bolts on the bottom, and on top is a long bolt going to a "slider block" on the arched bracket, secured with it's own (clamping?) bolt.

The bottom pic is looking up from below, at the tensioner. There is the tensioner center bolt, I don't see any long bolt there. Also, right now the tensioner is loose and spins by hand, is not even touching the belt.

Please point me to the righteous path of belt tensioning! Thanks, RJ

 

[2mbb]

the wheel in the bottom picture keeps the belt from flapping around too much and falling off as the compressor turns on and off, but it does not set the initial tension. The you can see the bolts in the top picture. The tension adjustment nut (red arrow) and the lock nut that must be loosened first (yellow arrow).

 

[rjs78]

Many thanks, that is exactly what I needed, confirming what I suspected.

Complete procedure as I did it. Confirm from the two pictures above that you have the exact same AC compressor config. These pics are from an 87 2F US FJ60. All bolts have 14mm heads.

1. Loosen the two pivot bolts on the bottom of the compressor. I used a 1/2 ratchet with a deep socket, no extension.
2. Loosen the slider block bolt (yellow arrow in above pic.) Same 1/2 ratchet with deep socket.
3. Turn the long adjustment bolt (red arrow). Clockwise tightens the belt. For ease, I used a 3/8 ratchet, standard socket, and 18 inch extension to bring the ratchet up high where I could more easily count turns. It doesn't take much to noticeably tighten the belt - 1/2 to 1 complete turn may be all that you need.
4. Tighten the slider block bolt (yellow arrow in above pic.)
5. Tighten the two pivot bolts on the bottom of the compressor.

Good luck!

 

[ace7141]

I am reviving this dead thread..

my question is can you run the truck without AC belt if the AC does not work? I have 3 new belts, and was going to replace all of them... but if my AC is just creating drag, can I omit using that belt? or do I need to replace all 3 regardless?

 

[John McVicker]

Yes...IF...your a/c belt goes directly to the crank and nothing else. All 60’s that I know of are this way.

 

[ace7141]

Thanks!! I suspected that may be the case, and yes it is just routed to crankcase, nothing else. I appreciate it!

 

[DamnyouLee]

Just wanted to say thank god for this thread. It helped a lot today. Follow these instructions and you’re good to go.

 

[DrRock]

One other item I would add here is if you have squealing, it could also be the idler pulley which is underneath. The bearing can go but luckily is easily sourced from a bearing house. I replaced mine as a precautionary measure when I had everything out. Sorry I don’t have the bearing number handy but there are several threads on mud with that info, along with how to get the old bearing out.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

It's an NSK 6302V