I've just finished a rather long and confusing process of installing remote keyless locking to my 94 80 series and thought I'd write up my experience for anyone else that wants keyless remote locking without alarms, lights, remote start and etc. Besides the ease of using a remote to enter and lock my vehicle I was sort of forced into making this happen as my door locks no longer function with the key (long story).
As I began research virtually all the threads from folks who know what they are talking about shared some common, yet I found finally unnecessary, steps that make the process needlessly complex, time consuming and confusing...at least for me. This is for those of us who's trucks came with no alarm, and no existing remote and all ya want is just the remote...nothin else.
So, here's the way I did it with a couple of notes and observations about what I discovered along the way.
I enclose three photos of the set up which is all done inside the door. There is no need for digging into the driver's kick panel and/or inside or under the dashboard...all the wires you need are in the door.
First of all, I recommend the Bulldog Security Keyless Entry Model KE1702. I started this project with one of those no-name units that are priced around $10--$20 bucks on the bay and other online retailers...and ran into problems and ultimately gave up. I found a tutorial (I think a guy in the UK or Aussie) who did use one of these units and it worked for him, but the color codes on his in-door wires did not match what I have in my door and I couldn't get the thing to work reliably and I couldn't figure out why...many days of frustration later, I bailed on it and sprung for the Bulldog unit which costs around $50 bucks but WORKS. Plus, importantly, it has complete instructions and diagrams to get you going. It has two problems though...First, it does not specify the colors of the lock and unlock wires and second, it indicates - in a seperate posted diagram- the use of diodes - which I discovered are un-necessary.
The wires you need to hook up are 12 volt constant voltage and a negative ground, plus a lock and unlock wire...I tapped into the Toyota's 12v and Grnd at the black box "lock-unlock brain" that is positioned toward the rear edge of the door (once you have popped off the door panel of course). I tapped into the Toyota lock and unlock wires at the window switch panel loom at the arm rest...as you can see, I used some quick wire taps and intend to pull it apart and re-do more securely when the weather gets warmer.
At the black brain box, the 12v constant voltage Toyota wire is Blue and the Toyota ground wire is white with a black sripe.
At the arm rest switch plug loom, the Toyota lock wire is blue with a black stripe and the Toyota un-lock wire I used is blue with a yellow stripe. In most of the threads I read, all seem to say that you also need to hook into a second Toyota un-lock wire (blue with orange stripe) and use diodes to prevent unintended cross talk between the wires. I found that NOT to be true. Everything works flawlessly and reliably the way I describe by just using the one un-lock wire.
One other connection which one could miss with this particular Bulldog system is the fused purple wire which also needs to go to ground connection.
That is it...with this info, one could probably do this in 10 minutes? Any question, lemme know.
Oh, one additional note, I cable tied the Bulldog unit to the Toyota lock and window brain box as shown in the overall photo
As I began research virtually all the threads from folks who know what they are talking about shared some common, yet I found finally unnecessary, steps that make the process needlessly complex, time consuming and confusing...at least for me. This is for those of us who's trucks came with no alarm, and no existing remote and all ya want is just the remote...nothin else.
So, here's the way I did it with a couple of notes and observations about what I discovered along the way.
I enclose three photos of the set up which is all done inside the door. There is no need for digging into the driver's kick panel and/or inside or under the dashboard...all the wires you need are in the door.
First of all, I recommend the Bulldog Security Keyless Entry Model KE1702. I started this project with one of those no-name units that are priced around $10--$20 bucks on the bay and other online retailers...and ran into problems and ultimately gave up. I found a tutorial (I think a guy in the UK or Aussie) who did use one of these units and it worked for him, but the color codes on his in-door wires did not match what I have in my door and I couldn't get the thing to work reliably and I couldn't figure out why...many days of frustration later, I bailed on it and sprung for the Bulldog unit which costs around $50 bucks but WORKS. Plus, importantly, it has complete instructions and diagrams to get you going. It has two problems though...First, it does not specify the colors of the lock and unlock wires and second, it indicates - in a seperate posted diagram- the use of diodes - which I discovered are un-necessary.
The wires you need to hook up are 12 volt constant voltage and a negative ground, plus a lock and unlock wire...I tapped into the Toyota's 12v and Grnd at the black box "lock-unlock brain" that is positioned toward the rear edge of the door (once you have popped off the door panel of course). I tapped into the Toyota lock and unlock wires at the window switch panel loom at the arm rest...as you can see, I used some quick wire taps and intend to pull it apart and re-do more securely when the weather gets warmer.
At the black brain box, the 12v constant voltage Toyota wire is Blue and the Toyota ground wire is white with a black sripe.
At the arm rest switch plug loom, the Toyota lock wire is blue with a black stripe and the Toyota un-lock wire I used is blue with a yellow stripe. In most of the threads I read, all seem to say that you also need to hook into a second Toyota un-lock wire (blue with orange stripe) and use diodes to prevent unintended cross talk between the wires. I found that NOT to be true. Everything works flawlessly and reliably the way I describe by just using the one un-lock wire.
One other connection which one could miss with this particular Bulldog system is the fused purple wire which also needs to go to ground connection.
That is it...with this info, one could probably do this in 10 minutes? Any question, lemme know.
Oh, one additional note, I cable tied the Bulldog unit to the Toyota lock and window brain box as shown in the overall photo
)
