How to add only remote keyless entry & locking to 1994 FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

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I've just finished a rather long and confusing process of installing remote keyless locking to my 94 80 series and thought I'd write up my experience for anyone else that wants keyless remote locking without alarms, lights, remote start and etc. Besides the ease of using a remote to enter and lock my vehicle I was sort of forced into making this happen as my door locks no longer function with the key (long story).
As I began research virtually all the threads from folks who know what they are talking about shared some common, yet I found finally unnecessary, steps that make the process needlessly complex, time consuming and confusing...at least for me. This is for those of us who's trucks came with no alarm, and no existing remote and all ya want is just the remote...nothin else.

So, here's the way I did it with a couple of notes and observations about what I discovered along the way.
I enclose three photos of the set up which is all done inside the door. There is no need for digging into the driver's kick panel and/or inside or under the dashboard...all the wires you need are in the door.

First of all, I recommend the Bulldog Security Keyless Entry Model KE1702. I started this project with one of those no-name units that are priced around $10--$20 bucks on the bay and other online retailers...and ran into problems and ultimately gave up. I found a tutorial (I think a guy in the UK or Aussie) who did use one of these units and it worked for him, but the color codes on his in-door wires did not match what I have in my door and I couldn't get the thing to work reliably and I couldn't figure out why...many days of frustration later, I bailed on it and sprung for the Bulldog unit which costs around $50 bucks but WORKS. Plus, importantly, it has complete instructions and diagrams to get you going. It has two problems though...First, it does not specify the colors of the lock and unlock wires and second, it indicates - in a seperate posted diagram- the use of diodes - which I discovered are un-necessary.

The wires you need to hook up are 12 volt constant voltage and a negative ground, plus a lock and unlock wire...I tapped into the Toyota's 12v and Grnd at the black box "lock-unlock brain" that is positioned toward the rear edge of the door (once you have popped off the door panel of course). I tapped into the Toyota lock and unlock wires at the window switch panel loom at the arm rest...as you can see, I used some quick wire taps and intend to pull it apart and re-do more securely when the weather gets warmer.

At the black brain box, the 12v constant voltage Toyota wire is Blue and the Toyota ground wire is white with a black sripe.
At the arm rest switch plug loom, the Toyota lock wire is blue with a black stripe and the Toyota un-lock wire I used is blue with a yellow stripe. In most of the threads I read, all seem to say that you also need to hook into a second Toyota un-lock wire (blue with orange stripe) and use diodes to prevent unintended cross talk between the wires. I found that NOT to be true. Everything works flawlessly and reliably the way I describe by just using the one un-lock wire.
One other connection which one could miss with this particular Bulldog system is the fused purple wire which also needs to go to ground connection.

That is it...with this info, one could probably do this in 10 minutes? Any question, lemme know.

Oh, one additional note, I cable tied the Bulldog unit to the Toyota lock and window brain box as shown in the overall photo

IMG_6249.JPG


IMG_6250.JPG


IMG_6251.JPG
 
Joined
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I used Posi-Taps in my alarm install and I really like them. They push a needle through the wire, and they don't end up slicing the wire like those awful 3M style taps.

51u3HgAJ9aL._SY400_.jpg
 
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I didn't mean to rain on the parade here, but if I had done something that would cause me trouble down the road, I'd appreciate it if someone said something. After I got over being embarrased, I'd be thankful. It's happened before.

Here's the only way to make a wiring harness splice:
three_wires_2.jpg


How do I know? Because every splice in the 80 harness is made this way. Open yours up and look.

This is the proven method of splicing that has lasted over two decades, and still works today. Yes, you can find another way, but every wheel I've ever seen is round, and I don't see any advantage in coming up with another design.

FWIW, here's a great article on building harnesses, from the fine folks in the Physics department at the University of Colorado, Boulder. (from which the image was lifted ;) )
The GSX-E
This splice is about half way down. They also mention why you shouldn't solder your joints. Give it a read.
 
Joined
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Oregon
I don't think Toyota is using cylindrical crimps like that. They don't have any sharp bulges in the harness:

three_wires_crimped.jpg


Here are much better splice terminals/splice clips:

Splice Terminals

splice-crimp-3x16.JPG


Personally, I'm sticking with Posi-Taps for tapping into signal wires. They're screwed down, so they don't pop loose, and they use a pin rather than a nasty slicing wedge like Scotch-Loks. If I were building a wiring harness carrying power, I'd use crimps, but not for tapping into an existing harness for something like an alarm installation.
 
Joined
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Scotch-lok/3M style are definitely BAD news - especially anywhere that moisture/corrosion can get to work. They plain SUCK.

Positaps are much better- but of course can still allow moisture to get in. Relatively low current capability as mentioned, but fine for small signal stuff up to a handful of amps.

A good quality crimp with adhesive melt heat shrink is great, but only if you can slide the tube on - and that isn't possible when splicing into an existing harness wire unfortunately. But if reliability (long term) is required, one can cut the existing wire, strip both ends, slide on the heat shrink, add in the new wire, crimp and then shrink the tube and ensure the adhesive flow out the two ends a little - job done right :)

cheers,
george.
 
Joined
Nov 28, 2017
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Chicago, IL
Malleus, I didnt think you were raining on anything...its all good info...and as I pointed out in my original post, I really had to do this now due to locks being screwed up and this configuration is temporary til the weather warms up enough so that I can do it right without freezing my butt off...I do like the look of those posi-taps...look pretty cool...
 

MrMikeyG

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Seattle, Wa USA
So, if my ‘94 has the Toyota rs_____ factory security system, does that mean when new it had a key fob/ remote locks or not necessarily?
 

MrMikeyG

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Nothing yet...
This is waaaay down on priority for me though. Still, it would be cool to know for sure. I would be starting from scratch anyway as my factory alarm was mostly disabaled when I got my truck, and I killed the remaining pieces.
 

John Young

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Dubai, UAE
Hi Dogstar. Thanks for the post. I was just digging into this myself. I had my mechanics in Dubai do it using one of the cheap boxes, and it worked fine. But I've torn apart the dash and I don't like the look of the wiring that they and PO's have done over the years and I'm going to try to put everything back the way it should be.

I was wondering if my splicing in at the keyless entry box whether you get the parking lights flashing when you open and close. It is not essential to me, but it would be 'nice to have'.
 

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