How to: 1HZ CT26 turbo install (1 Viewer)

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serenity

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Hi guys, thought I would document my CT26 turbo install on my 1994 HZJ80 for anyone who is interested.

Here is the cruiser.
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I picked up a complete 1hd-t turbo setup for a bargain price. Also got the factory air box and pre turbo intake piping.
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Genuine parts purchased for the swap:

Water bypass pipe no. 1
PN 16268-17020
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Turbo water pipe no. 2
PN 16028-17010
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Turbo outlet hose
PN 17341-17011
Exhaust manifold gaskets, 2 required.
PN 17173-17010
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Turbine inlet gasket
PN 17278-88380

Turbine outlet to dump pipe gasket
PN 17279-17010

Oil inlet/return gasket
PN 15471-58010

Crossover pipe to intake manifold gasket
PN 17115-17010

Edit: doing a major rewrite of this install to clarify and add more information.
 
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Are you going to reseal the split manifold? Once I pulled mine off and put it make it now leaks!

Also what is the condition of the turbo, may want to get it rebuilt as it's easier to do now that later....
 
I haven't re sealed the split manifold, too late now though. I guess I'll see if it leaks.

The turbo is off an 80 with 150,000km on it, was the cleanest looking 80 I've ever seen. I checked the end float and axial play in the shaft and it appears to be good.
 
I drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold for the egt probe directly above the inlet for the turbo, I figured this would give the most accurate reading.
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Here is a photo of the modified oil inlet/outlet. The banjo was cut off the inlet and a male 7/16" JIC hydraulic fitting brazed on, outlet was changed to a 3/4" hose fitting.
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Once you have removed the exhaust manifold and intake pipe work you have access to the water bypass pipe, remove the hoses and P clip, then use a pry bar to lift the pipe out of the top of the thermostat housing. The 1hd-t pipe presses in exactly the same as the 1hz pipe.
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I haven't installed the coolant crossover pipe yet as it requires pulling the timing cover and belt etc. I will do that on the next timing belt/ water pump replacement. Instead I just ran hose through to the water inlet on the head and into where a redundant sensor was. I'm not happy with the big loop of hose though so I'm going to tap into the bottom of the housing like a 1hd and install an elbow.
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Nice photos of your EGT probe placement, never seems to be enough of these when you need them!
 
Nice photos of your EGT probe placement, never seems to be enough of these when you need them!

Thanks, yeah it took some time for me to research everything as I couldn't find everything I wanted to know in the 1 place.

Next up I installed the manifold and turbo to the head and plumbed up the coolant lines. I had to make up a steel section of pipe to join the 2 rubber inlet pipes together between the filter housing and turbo.
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I'm still missing hose clamps for the intake too. That's a job for this weekend along with fitting the oil inlet, dropping the sump and welding on a 3/4" nipple for the oil drain hose.
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I made some progress this afternoon. I dropped the oil out last weekend so when I dropped the sump this arvo it was bone dry. I thoroughly cleaned it out, marked where I wanted the oil return to go and took to it with a hole saw. Then I burned in a 3/4 nipple with my trusty Lincoln.
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Got it all bolted back in, no photos though as it was too dark by the time I had it done.
 
oh, you can fit the crossover coolant line without removing timing covers. just slot one of the holes in the crosover pipe bracket so you can slip it behind the head of a loosened bolt. the pipe can be slipped behind the timing belt covers ( i accidently left this out when i rebuilt a 1hd-t :oops: )
 
nice work. where did you pick up the new hard water line for the turbo? is it a genuine part?

Yeah both the hard lines are genuine, cost around $55 aud. Worth it for the factory setup.

oh, you can fit the crossover coolant line without removing timing covers. just slot one of the holes in the crosover pipe bracket so you can slip it behind the head of a loosened bolt. the pipe can be slipped behind the timing belt covers ( i accidently left this out when i rebuilt a 1hd-t :oops: )

That is bloody excellent! I haven't refilled my coolant system yet so I think I will make that my first job for tomorrow morning. Thanks for the tip!
 
I tried fitting the crossover pipe this morning. Was not going to go in unless I pulled other bits off so I have left it as is for the moment.

I got the oil feed line plumbed up, hose clamps on the intake, refilled the oil and coolant and now I'm too nervous to try and start it. It's raining and and I'm trying to be patient, so it can wait until tomorrow. It also has no exhaust yet so might aggravate the neighbours a little.
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Note the oil feed line is unsupported, I'm not a huge fan of this, I'm thinking I'll make a support bracket for it and try to shield the line from the nearby exhaust manifold and dump pipe.
 
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Been lazy about posting the rest of this. Had it up and running for the last week.

Here is a pic of the oil supply from the block, I used a 1/8" npt nipple with the thread on one side cut to a 1/8" bspt to go into the oil pressure sensor port in the block. Then a 1/8" npt female tee to split supply to the pressure sensor and turbo oil supply line. The supply line uses a male 1/8" npt to 7/16" male JIC fitting, then female 7/16" JIC fittings on each end of a hose that is 1100mm long to reach around the back of the head to the turbo.
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Is your drain going into the oil in the sump or above. Looks a little low to me but may just be the picture. Most go into the block but that means drilling and tapping and metal fillings.
G
 
I thought most aftermarket setups drained into the sump, drilling the block would be a lot of effort.

Here is a better photo of the location of the drain. Ignore the bird crap welds.
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how is it? much of an improvement?

I'll let you know when I can drive it. The turbo install is part of a fairly major refit. New wheel bearings all round, swivel hub rebuild, rear diff rebuild, new brakes, new door trims, new front seats, cargo barrier, roof rack and flares. And some rust to weld up. I've also been doing other various items such as glow plugs and rewiring the stereo etc.

After all that I'll take it for a spin and get it tuned.
 
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Hey, I am no expert but I always thought it had to be above the oil, no matter the experts will certainly chime in, but please check it out before you put too many miles on.
 

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