How Screwed Am I? Real Time Problem

[ih8everything]

I was starting to do a front brake job today and ran into an issue I can't get past.

When I removed the hub flange, lots of metal came falling out. I identified this metal as the lock ring with the bendable tabs. It completely fell apart.

The outer 54mm axle nut came out stuck to the back of the flange and seemed heat-welded there. I had to clamp the flange on a vice and hit the nut with a chisel to get it to come off.

And finally, the biggest issue, the inner axle nut will not budge. There is about 1/4" of play where I slide the rotor/hub back and forth, but I can not get the nut to budge. I tried a 20" breaker bar with the 54mm axle socket and could not get it to budge either way.

How would you proceed? Should I try heating it up or cutting it? I'm not sure if I could even get a dremel in there. Any ideas appreciated.

 

[Hayes]

With the fused threads and the play in the bearings, you'll probably want a new spindle. Gotta get that nut off, though. Bigger breaker bar?

 

[AimCOtaco]

Use some impact hits and heat the nut only and see if the breaker will take it.

You at a very minimum want to replace the wheel bearing and hardware (cruiser outfitters kit) and then evaluate any visible heat damage to the spindle.

Looking at the color, I would prefer a new spindle as well but I think you need to find a complete knuckle to get the spindle.

 

[ogsuv]

Longer breaker bar for sure or other options suggested.

I use a 4ft section of old rigid pipe

 

[cruiserdan]

The spindle is part of the knuckle. 663 bucks a copy new (published list price).

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Your CV splines look good, so that's at least one bright spot. Heat the nut with heat to get it to expand and try a breaker bar on it. You could also try a Dremel and cut it where the notch is on the spindle that the thrust washer fits in. If you can save the spindle threads, you should be in decent shape. I bet you'll find the hub with little grease and will probably need new bearings (get the full kit from @cruiseroutfit as suggested).

 

[ih8everything]

Thanks for the help guys. I was able to get the nut off with a torch and adding pipe to the breaker bar. The spindle doesn't look too bad to my untrained eye, no grooves in it or anything like that. The 1st and 2nd threads have fused together and I can't get anything to thread on there so I'm thinking I will get a used knuckle, unless someone knows of a way to try fixing those threads. Cruiserparts has them for $275, but I will look around tonight before ordering.

Use some impact hits and heat the nut only and see if the breaker will take it.

You at a very minimum want to replace the wheel bearing and hardware (cruiser outfitters kit) and then evaluate any visible heat damage to the spindle..

I was already planning on replacing the bearings so thankfully I have those on hand.

I checked the passenger side since I still had some daylight left and thankfully everything looks okay there.

 

[aljollano]

Thanks for the help guys. I was able to get the nut off with a torch and adding pipe to the breaker bar. The spindle doesn't look too bad to my untrained eye, no grooves in it or anything like that. The 1st and 2nd threads have fused together and I can't get anything to thread on there so I'm thinking I will get a used knuckle, unless someone knows of a way to try fixing those threads. Cruiserparts has them for $275, but I will look around tonight before ordering.

You can fix the threads with a file. I've done it before, just go slow with the file.

A.J

 

[Trunk Monkey]

x2 on the file. How'd the hub and bearings look?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Those threads look absolutely savlageable. A file or even careful *careful* work with a thin dremel disc should get you on your way. I would definitely not replace that knuckle based on a couple slightly damaged threads on the end like that.

Good luck!

 

[Sandroad]

So there was a lot of heat in there. Did it come from dry wheel bearings or a dry spindle bearing? Are you checking the spindle bearing and seal too before you lube it?

 

[Hayes]

Nice work. Is that first groove on the spindle wear from a slipping bearing?

 

[arcteryx]

What prompted you to do this? Was there any noise, vibration or shaking? Or you wanted to do the brakes? I'm guessing you were doing the rotors because you don't need to do all of that for pads.

 

[ih8everything]

So there was a lot of heat in there. Did it come from dry wheel bearings or a dry spindle bearing? Are you checking the spindle bearing and seal too before you lube it?

There was a lot of heat. The adjusting nut that was stuck in there was pretty hot to the touch, probably around 140*F and that's after sitting outside for about 18hrs since last being driven. I will check the spindle bearing and seal in the morning.

Nice work. Is that first groove on the spindle wear from a slipping bearing?

I didn't think about that, it looks like it's supposed to be there. I will compare it with the passenger side tomorrow.

What prompted you to do this? Was there any noise, vibration or shaking? Or you wanted to do the brakes? I'm guessing you were doing the rotors because you don't need to do all of that for pads.

Just catching up on maintenance since I bought it earlier this year. The rotors were shot so I figured with 170000 miles I might as well do all new wheel bearings while I'm in there.

x2 on the file. How'd the hub and bearings look?

I have the bearings soaking overnight, but at first glance they didn't look too bad. This is my first time ever doing wheel bearings on any vehicle, so I don't exactly have a lot of knowledge to fall back on.

 

[Heirloom]

You want a tool called a thread repair file. It will restore the threads on that spindle.

Here's a link to such a tool, I can't verify the pitch you need to cut, so check that out before you buy.

General Tools Thread Repair File Metric 0.75 1.0 1.25 1.5 1.75 2.0 2.5

I don't spend much time in this section, so I hope I'm not intruding.

Sent from my LGLS990

 

[Travis351]

I went through this as well. Cutting the nut then careful filing with a thread file did the trick. The bearings were fine. IRRC I think the star washer was what failed.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

The star washer can't really fail. If you forgot to bend the tabs to lock the spindle nuts in place, eventually the spindle nuts could back off and then you'd have real problems. But you'd definitely notice that loose of a hub.

 

[ih8everything]

The wheel bearings look okay after a cleaning and all roll smoothly. There was a lot of metal flakes in the cleaning solution, I'm guessing this came from the exploded star washer... maybe that was binding some of the bearings causing excessive friction? I'm just glad I finally got around to doing this when I did before things got worse. As long as I can get the threads fixed, I'll pop in all the new bearings and grease and closely monitor the hub for heat or vibrations.

So there was a lot of heat in there. Did it come from dry wheel bearings or a dry spindle bearing? Are you checking the spindle bearing and seal too before you lube it?

Nothing alarmed me from looking at the spindle bearings and seal, see photos below. Just lots of contaminated grease. I don't know the last time these were greased. I got the slee tool so I'll be sure to pump plenty of grease through there.

You want a tool called a thread repair file. It will restore the threads on that spindle.

Here's a link to such a tool, I can't verify the pitch you need to cut, so check that out before you buy.

General Tools Thread Repair File Metric 0.75 1.0 1.25 1.5 1.75 2.0 2.5

I don't spend much time in this section, so I hope I'm not intruding.

Sent from my LGLS990

Thanks for the info, I didn't even know these existed. I'm more of a woodworker and am just getting started with metal work. I just ordered one and it'll be here tomorrow. Gotta love amazon right?

 

[Heirloom]

The wheel bearings look okay after a cleaning and all roll smoothly. There was a lot of metal flakes in the cleaning solution...


Nothing alarmed me from looking at the spindle bearings and seal, see photos below. Just lots of contaminated grease.

Metal flakes that float in the grease can definitely destroy bearings. A bearing that feels smooth in the hand doesn't guarantee it will be fine under load. Were you able to visually inspect the rolling surfaces? Keep a close eye on things if you don't replace all the bearings.

Sent from my LGLS990

 

[ih8everything]

So after two hours of filing and chasing the threads I finally got them good enough to be able to thread a nut on by hand. When I was doing the final cleaning of the threads I noticed what appears to be a crack. See photos below. Like I said earlier, I'm pretty novice when it comes to working with metal but I think this is enough of a concern to justify replacing the spindle/knuckle. Am I right?