How Do I Replace or Repair Knock Sensor Wire

[meatloaf]

So my son's 92 (22RE) truck has some starting issues recently.

He had broken the K/S wire a couple of years ago and patched it up. Truck had been working ok until recently when it would not start. Checked code and it pointed to K/S. After moving wire around, it started right up and ran fine...

So, after searching here on Mud and Google, I found multiple post on people changing wire out with coax, but I could not find a step by step on how it is done. Is there a good writeup out there that explains this? Is the K/S wire a dealer replacement item or can I find another harness to replace it?

Thanks,
ML

 

[snobdds]

You might get lucky and Toyota still has the pigtail available. I know this is highly replaced piece on the 3.0 3VZE engine.

If not I would call up Jim at jimgotparts.com and see if he has one. He has everything Toyota and I bet you have a pretty good chance of finding the pigtail.

 

[meatloaf]

You might get lucky and Toyota still has the pigtail available. I know this is highly replaced piece on the 3.0 3VZE engine.

If not I would call up Jim at jimgotparts.com and see if he has one. He has everything Toyota and I bet you have a pretty good chance of finding the pigtail.

Contacted Jim... He says this wire comes attached to the harness & does not come as a pigtail. Around $125 shipped to Texas

 

[raevenzero]

You might try Napa. I bought some injector pigtails from them a couple of years ago. Some solder and shrink wrap and I was set.

 

[WristPin]

I never have had to do this. But i always knew that if i did i would simply use old cb radio cable. RG-58 to be exact. I feel like it would be the most cost effective method while still working for many years

 

[KLF]

I never have had to do this. But i always knew that if i did i would simply use old cb radio cable. RG-58 to be exact. I feel like it would be the most cost effective method while still working for many years

I wouldn't do this. Coax has an impedance rating, RG58/U is rated at 50 ohms. Unless you know the coax in the factory harness is the same impedance, the ECU may get the wrong signal reflection from the Knock Sensor and throw off the timing adjustment.

You're probably better off finding another late 22RE in a junkyard and hack that section out of the harness. Unfortunately it's not a separate segment like it is on the 3VZ and many other engines.

 

[WristPin]

Good point. If a guy could measure the ohms in a stock cable. I bet it's still less. We'll leave this idea up to the R&D department

 

[pappy]

- I suspect the boneyard is your friend. Get the connector with the longest length of wire you can. Then it's just a matter of solder and shrink tube.

I think I have an 87 engine harness in the garage.

 

[rosalie]

You can get a professional dealer's help in this where your problem can be solved easily..

 

[meatloaf]

I wouldn't do this. Coax has an impedance rating, RG58/U is rated at 50 ohms. Unless you know the coax in the factory harness is the same impedance, the ECU may get the wrong signal reflection from the Knock Sensor and throw off the timing adjustment.

You're probably better off finding another late 22RE in a junkyard and hack that section out of the harness. Unfortunately it's not a separate segment like it is on the 3VZ and many other engines.

Good point. If a guy could measure the ohms in a stock cable. I bet it's still less. We'll leave this idea up to the R&D department

good point.

- I suspect the boneyard is your friend. Get the connector with the longest length of wire you can. Then it's just a matter of solder and shrink tube.

I think I have an 87 engine harness in the garage.

Pappy, is the '87 harness the same as a '92? if so, how much?

Thanks,
ML

 

[BlueCruiser84]

Bring this thread Back from the dead.

On my ‘89 4Runner 22re I Have a code 52. Discovered that the shielding on the KS wire is completely broken right at the connector. Inner black wire appears to be in tact. Assuming this is the source of my code??

What is the proper method to repair the shielding and should it connect to something at the knock sensor end?

 

[BlueCruiser84]

Actually now that I look closer it may not be broken. Does the shielding just stop at the sensor?

 

[The Eradicator]

Does the shielding just stop at the sensor?

IIRC, the shielding should be grounded at the ECU end of the harness and it just ends at the sensor. You should verify that the shielding is connected to ground and that the inner wire has no continuity with the shielding.

My shielding shorted to the sensor wire when I did my engine rebuild and my ghetto fix was to splice in old TV coax cable. I'm sure that there is a cleaner solution, but that got me by until I could afford a less ratty harness.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

Got rid of the code 52. Apparently there is a difference between the ‘85 knock sensor and the ‘89 that the ECU didn’t like! No more codes on this piece!

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr]

Got rid of the code 52. Apparently there is a difference between the ‘85 knock sensor and the ‘89 that the ECU didn’t like! No more codes on this piece!

What did you end up doing to get rid of it?

 

[BlueCruiser84]

Oh. The motor I implanted came from an ‘85 4Runner. I left the knock sensor on that motor. Apparently the ‘89 ECU didn’t like the ‘85 knock sensor. I swapped in the ‘89 knock sensor and the code is gone.