How do I remove top bolt on bottom end of EGR pipe? (2 Viewers)

[CharlieS]

Help please.

How do I remove top bolt on bottom end of EGR pipe?

I was up until past 2am messing around trying to get this and am stumped. I just need to get enough leverage to crack it loose.

I got the bottom bolt out with some long extensions from the wheel well with the tire out. I just needed to crack it loose, and was able to take it out easily after that.

The valve cover gasket and upper intake plenum are off, so I have ok access, but not awesome access. I can't see that bolt because of where it sits with the lower plenum blocking it. As far as I can tell, I can't get to it from the top without removing the lower plenum.

The PHH is out (and I thought that was going to be the hardest part - it was a pain, but not compared to this...) so I don't have that in the way.

The opening available in the wheel well makes it very hard to get good leverage with a short gear wrench, flex head gear wrench or a ratchet. I can get them on it, but don't have any way to generate enough torque (you should see the scrapes and bruises on my forearms).

I'm starting to think if my main options (other than take the engine out ) are:

1) remove the lower intake plenum and do it from above, or​

2) remove the starter, transmission dipstick and anything else limiting access from below​

In my despair I even considered drilling a bolt access hole in the inner fender, but decided to go to bed and sleep on it before engaging the power tools.

I know I'm nowhere near the first person to tackle this. Would one of you that has experience here share what you did? Access from top or bottom? What did you have to remove to get to it? What combination of tools finally worked?

FSM is super helpful:

...if the engine is removed and you can hit it straight on. Not so easy with a fender in the way...

 

[Rusty Marlin]

I don't recall fighting that fastner. IIRC, I used a short wobble extension or two (not a universal) for a redirect and a long enough extension to clear the wheel well. Tire was removed for access.

 

[Malleus]

^This

You just have to have enough "elbows"

 

[Malleus]

FWIW, this is one of the many reasons I'll never pull a 1FZ-FE head without pulling an engine again.

These things are not like SBCs. Pulling the head and changing spark plugs are waaay more work on these engines. But you only have to do it every 30 years, so... (the head, not the spark plugs ) When the head has to come off, for a valve job or headgasket, it'll be time to do all the rest of the "while you're in there stuff too.

 

[CharlieS]

Drat, all attempts have eluded me. Every elbow in my toolbox in play. So frustrating.

 

[Jeeper]

I replaced this pipe with the engine in and the head on. Don’t recall the tools used, but it’s definitely possible. I do recall leverage being an issue as I wasn’t sure if I got it back tight enough. But years later, it’s tight enough.

I feel like I used a flex head ratcheting wrench, but I really can’t recall.

 

[zapatius]

Drat, all attempts have eluded me. Every elbow in my toolbox in play. So frustrating.

I don't like the elbows, I feel like they're too floppy and have too much play. I use the specific sized wobble socket from HF.

3/8 in. Drive Metric Impact Swivel Socket Set, 7 Piece

Amazing deals on this 7Pc 3/8In Dr Metric Impact Swivel Socket Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[CharlieS]

Thanks. I'll run to Harbor Freight after work. Thanks.

 

[effjay80]

I find a few wraps of electrical tape at the joint cures overfloppy elbow socket syndrome.

I hate when I'm inches away from a difficult hard fought connection and then go limp.

 

[CharlieS]

I bought those sockets, and they were better. Still a pain.

The rear heater line and body are so close it makes everything very tight. So I took out the bolt holding that to the firewall.

I also removed the PHH hard line.

I eventually got that top bolt out from the top. Lots of work with an offset spanner.

I would highly recommend NOT doing this with the engine in. Or at least remove the lower intake plenum.

Thanks for all of the tips and guidance.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Now's your opportunity to create a lovely steel cover plate, reuse the gasket, and ditch the EGR system for good.

 

[CharlieS]

Now's your opportunity to create a lovely steel cover plate, reuse the gasket, and ditch the EGR system for good.

100%. That's next on my to do list.

 

[CharlieS]

Anyone know the gasket part number? Is it possibly 25628-66010 "Gasket, EGR Inlet"?

Looks similar...

I ordered what I thought it was (17376-66010), but that turned out to be the one that goes on the exhaust manifold PAIR pipe instead.

I can throw the old one back on, but figured I might as well throw a new one in while I'm there.

Hopefully whatever I do, I'll never have to touch it again.

Or, if reusing the old one becomes necessary, any tips or tricks for resealing the old gasket? Like some sort of heat resistant sealant, for example? Maybe Permatex 81878 Gasket Maker?

Or maybe J-B Weld 31314 High Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker and Sealant?

 

[CharlieS]

I am going to try this. Seems like it would do the job,

 

[rhc404]

Maybe you're already aware, but I've been looking into removing this pipe too and I read that you need shorter bolts since the stock ones will now bottom out in the head due to the much thinner block off plate.

 

[LandLocked93]

Congrats.
Step 6

 

[CharlieS]

Maybe you're already aware, but I've been looking into removing this pipe too and I read that you need shorter bolts since the stock ones will now bottom out in the head due to the much thinner block off plate.

Definitely. The ones that came out were really long. I imagine a 16 or 20mm m8x1.25 jis flange bolt will work great.

 

[Kernal]

As you mentioned above, 25628-66010 (Gasket, EGR Inlet) is the correct gasket for the EGR pipe (or block off plate) where it bolts to the head.

 

[CharlieS]

Okay, I'll do it the better way and order a gasket.

A little time with the cutoff wheel, grinder, flap wheel and sandpaper and I think we have a serviceable plate.

I could probably sand some more, but am stopping for now.

Miracle of miracles, the local dealer actually has this gasket in stock. They never have Land Crusier parts in stock. Must be my lucky day. Maybe I'll buy a lottery ticket too.

 

[CharlieS]

Definitely. The ones that came out were really long. I imagine a 16 or 20mm m8x1.25 jis flange bolt will work great.

I measured the amount the stock bolts extended past the EGR pipe into the head (~12mm) and added for my (~3mm) plate. 16mm would be ideal with plate. I haven't measured the holes to see what they have available for depth. I keep 12, 16 and 20 mm on hand, so will use the 16mm.

Side note that the label suggests this was ordered by a local 4x4 shop (the only local 4x4 shop), but wasn't used or was returned.