I would add transoms above the garage door(s) or window panels in the garage doors for natural light when the door is closed. I prefer the transoms as they're high enough to keep from getting hit with toys etc, and keeps the gawkers from looking in, if that's an issue. As for radiant floor heat, it's a bitch to mount things to the floor (like anchoring a platform lift) if you don't know where those tubes are in the floor. Plan for anchor points, run the tubing in the floor even if you can't use it right away, you can always plumb into it later. Oh yeah, I'd go standing seam metal roof too, you won't be replacing it in your lifetime. Sounds like you're having fun, good luck.
Houseplan 1.0
- Thread starter woody
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- Thread starter
- #42
had lunch with a friend yesterday who does CAD work and was off this week....played volleyball on his team last night, and he had this already set....
handful of tweaks to make, but I'm pleased with the basics....
handful of tweaks to make, but I'm pleased with the basics....
crushers
post ho
where is the mechanics pit and the steel I beams?
i like it, the plan looks simple and effective. how high are the ceilings in the great room?
cheers
i like it, the plan looks simple and effective. how high are the ceilings in the great room?
cheers
- Thread starter
- #44
right now, the sidewalls of the greatroom are 9' with a 14' center...nothing finalized tho yet....9' throughout the rest of upstairs too, and 8' downstairs.
the 3-car attached is ONLY for my daily, her daily, and her MGB convertible....the shop will house my cruiser, the Lemon, the car trailer, my other cruiser, the mini, the other cruiser, the other cruiser, parts, a few friends boats, another cruiser, some tools, a hoist, another cruiser....
hhhhmmm...carry the 1....recalculate....apears I need a 100x200 shop.....hhhhmmmm....lol
BIG thing I don't like now is the position of both stairwells...for the garage one, gonna move it parallel to the outside wall for a straight-shot into the basement. In the house, we played with 4-5 ideas last night, and I'll photochop my drawing to fit it...most likely, move the dining space down some, edit the master bedroom design, and have the stairwell in the middle of the house....
the 3-car attached is ONLY for my daily, her daily, and her MGB convertible....the shop will house my cruiser, the Lemon, the car trailer, my other cruiser, the mini, the other cruiser, the other cruiser, parts, a few friends boats, another cruiser, some tools, a hoist, another cruiser....
hhhhmmm...carry the 1....recalculate....apears I need a 100x200 shop.....hhhhmmmm....lol
BIG thing I don't like now is the position of both stairwells...for the garage one, gonna move it parallel to the outside wall for a straight-shot into the basement. In the house, we played with 4-5 ideas last night, and I'll photochop my drawing to fit it...most likely, move the dining space down some, edit the master bedroom design, and have the stairwell in the middle of the house....
Pertaining to Stairs
make sure there is enough length in those stairs for a landing in the basement. It appears to be about 10' in length? With 10' in length around here, its barely enough room for the treads- no landing and the flight is steep. I'd shoot for 12' for length of the hole(this is not including a landing). If the stair ends against a wall then you'll need more. Oh, and I added 6" to the width of a standard stairwell to my house... makes it much easier to get stuff down.
You might consider an open rail on the dining side at the top and a door at the bottom so that its easier to get furniture in... unless you have a walk out basement, in which case it probably won't matter that much. Anyway... just some input form a guy thats drawn a plan a few hundred times.
Same thing goes for the hallway by the master door, with the corner of the hall clipped, it'll be tough to manuever a longer dresser, mattress etc. Sounds like you are already considering this... but there's my .02 anyway.
make sure there is enough length in those stairs for a landing in the basement. It appears to be about 10' in length? With 10' in length around here, its barely enough room for the treads- no landing and the flight is steep. I'd shoot for 12' for length of the hole(this is not including a landing). If the stair ends against a wall then you'll need more. Oh, and I added 6" to the width of a standard stairwell to my house... makes it much easier to get stuff down.
You might consider an open rail on the dining side at the top and a door at the bottom so that its easier to get furniture in... unless you have a walk out basement, in which case it probably won't matter that much. Anyway... just some input form a guy thats drawn a plan a few hundred times.
Same thing goes for the hallway by the master door, with the corner of the hall clipped, it'll be tough to manuever a longer dresser, mattress etc. Sounds like you are already considering this... but there's my .02 anyway.
Jim S.
SILVER Star
Looking good. Consider a bit of a landing at the top of the stairs as in the previous post & then place a winder at the bottom. Stairs won't be so steep. I concur with a wide stairwell. If you're going to have living quarters on the lower level, it should look inviting. Celebrate the staircase instead of trying to hide them. My 2cents worth.
Woody,
VERY brief reply from an architect who does this every day:
Layout ? - is the floor shown the main level? If so, where do I arrive when I come to your house? Right now it looks like I'm heading to the master bedroom, lkitchen, or laundry. That's OK for the "Back door" but don't you want to welcome friends and guests nearer to the family /living room area? this way they don't have to walk through the kitchen or get to see your wife getting ready in the bedroom....Orientation: any views? where's north / south for daylighting considerations? I see lot's of corners...try to avoid unless required for plan or exterior appearance as they add to cost. Your garage (if for 2 cars (cruisers) is too narrow at 22'.
What does this look like outside?????????
Mechanical? - Good point earlier re radiant floor heating - very desirable for comfort in winter but if you want A/C in summer you're basically paying for two systems. Will this be on city water & sewer or well and on site septic tank?
Peter
Anderson Architecture + Design
www.aa-d.com
VERY brief reply from an architect who does this every day:
Layout ? - is the floor shown the main level? If so, where do I arrive when I come to your house? Right now it looks like I'm heading to the master bedroom, lkitchen, or laundry. That's OK for the "Back door" but don't you want to welcome friends and guests nearer to the family /living room area? this way they don't have to walk through the kitchen or get to see your wife getting ready in the bedroom....Orientation: any views? where's north / south for daylighting considerations? I see lot's of corners...try to avoid unless required for plan or exterior appearance as they add to cost. Your garage (if for 2 cars (cruisers) is too narrow at 22'.
What does this look like outside?????????
Mechanical? - Good point earlier re radiant floor heating - very desirable for comfort in winter but if you want A/C in summer you're basically paying for two systems. Will this be on city water & sewer or well and on site septic tank?
Peter
Anderson Architecture + Design
www.aa-d.com
I say large walk-in closets. Better to spend a little more on space now than alot more on decent bedroom furniture later(ex. dressers,armoirs,etc).Bedroom furniture usually gets outdated, insufficient to store all the clothes that you will have for summer and fall, and the best part, opening one door and you get to see your whole inventory of clothes. No more opening multiple drawers just to find a specific article of clothing and discovering those clothes that you could find before.
More to the point .. Where's the dance stage and the pole ??
Seriously ....
What I see looks like a good start. Take your design requirements and immediately double them. Think of everything you could possible ever want and plan for it now. It's far easier to change things now in the planning stage then after construction starts. (Builder add ons add up quick).
Seriously ....
What I see looks like a good start. Take your design requirements and immediately double them. Think of everything you could possible ever want and plan for it now. It's far easier to change things now in the planning stage then after construction starts. (Builder add ons add up quick).
Here's an interior sketch I just did for someone.
Brian,
If I can only add one thing to all these suggestions it would be this simple thought...
Build it as big as you can afford. You will never regret more living space. Especially when you have kids.
Our house is not extravagant, built in '88, but it's 2980 sq/ft. single level 4 bed ranch w/ 2-car garage(wish it was a big 3 car though) with lots of storage closets, large closets, big bedrooms, etc. But the kicker is that the kitchen/dining room is all one room with no walls and all tiled. 3 kids could ride bikes around even with the dining room table with seating for 8 in there!! It's just really cool. Having all that room -- where everyone gathers anyway -- is nice. We have the most room of anyone(family) in the OKC area -- kitchen wise, so holidays are at our house (blessing and curse for cleanup). I'm not bragging, what I'm saying is build it bigger than you ever think you'll need. You'll use it. Make sure your kitchen is not cramped and has LOTS of counter top/cabinet space.
If we ever move on to some acreage and build, we are building this same floorplan with some slight modifications -- LIKE A LARGE 3 CAR GARAGE!!! Can you tell that bugs me? We like it that much.
Of course I'll also have a monster detached shop like you...
Jody.
If I can only add one thing to all these suggestions it would be this simple thought...
Build it as big as you can afford. You will never regret more living space. Especially when you have kids.
Our house is not extravagant, built in '88, but it's 2980 sq/ft. single level 4 bed ranch w/ 2-car garage(wish it was a big 3 car though) with lots of storage closets, large closets, big bedrooms, etc. But the kicker is that the kitchen/dining room is all one room with no walls and all tiled. 3 kids could ride bikes around even with the dining room table with seating for 8 in there!! It's just really cool. Having all that room -- where everyone gathers anyway -- is nice. We have the most room of anyone(family) in the OKC area -- kitchen wise, so holidays are at our house (blessing and curse for cleanup). I'm not bragging, what I'm saying is build it bigger than you ever think you'll need. You'll use it. Make sure your kitchen is not cramped and has LOTS of counter top/cabinet space.
If we ever move on to some acreage and build, we are building this same floorplan with some slight modifications -- LIKE A LARGE 3 CAR GARAGE!!! Can you tell that bugs me? We like it that much.
Of course I'll also have a monster detached shop like you...
Jody.
Cruisin'Carolina said:
You can use glycol in a radiant system (drinkable antifreeze) if power outage is a problem.
Although you would have to have the power go out for a few days to freeze a heated slab in an insualted building.
I just did a pole barn radiant install in a 6" slab and the cost was more than a hanging unit heater but not bad. We ran a buried oil line from the house 40' away when we trenched in the water and electric so the barn shares the same oil tank as the house and with a direct vented Weil McLain oil fired boiler and the radiant installed was around $7000 for a 40 x 60 barn (we roughed in a bathroom and shop sink too).
The radiant is cheap to run but doesn't change temp very quick.... can take 3 to 4 hours to change temp so it's not something you can turn up and use. But if your looking at keeping a consant temp it's great.
