Hot Air Intake Engine Location (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Ed, where can you buy a generic HAI hose? Is it basically the same thing (spiral metallic wound) or is it something like a rubber hose from an auto parts store?

Sorry I missed this. Yes, it's a generic spiral metallic job from All Parts.

On a FJ60 (I know, not a FJ40) the HAI flapper valve in the air cleaner neck is controlled by the Hot Idle Control Valve (HIC) located inside the 2F air cleaner cover. The HIC very slowly opens and closes the HAI valve attempting to regulate the air temp going to the carb between 81º and 91º F.
In 1986, this was Toyota's best solution for supplying the optimum air temp to the carb for what they wanted to do.

I have this version of the air cleaner on my '76. It probably came from the donor of the long block after the PO ran the original out of oil.
 
I am trying to put the hot air intake back together. I have a 1980 FJ40 built in May of 1980 according to the VIN lookup.


Here is what my heat intake looks like. It was just hanging from the metal hose. Anyone have a picture of the original part?



14911038208_d824b34a52_c.jpg

I found mine in my parts pile, looks even worse than this. Is the collar of the stringy bit just press fit into the horn? Anyone have a pic of what the stringy bit is supposed to look like?
 
I found mine in my parts pile, looks even worse than this. Is the collar of the stringy bit just press fit into the horn? Anyone have a pic of what the stringy bit is supposed to look like?

Yes. This:
;)

1610512151526.png
 
Thanks, I was mostly interested in what the wire mesh bit looked like originally
That black stuff is it. It was some kind of asbestos (or asbestos-like) fiber compressed in some kind of resin.
 
That black stuff is it. It was some kind of asbestos (or asbestos-like) fiber compressed in some kind of resin.
Now that I am comparing them my 1977 looks overall more compact than your unobtanium new one. Must have been a variety of versions?
 
that was the 1st thing that fell of my 82 fj40...i turned around and picked it up
The unobtainium front manifold insulator is only kinda useful for the first few minutes after starting a cold engine on a cold day. Once the engine thermostat opens and warm air from the radiator gets pulled into the engine compartment from the fan, the front manifold insulator no longer has any purpose.
===

On a FJ60 (I know, not a FJ40) the HAI flapper valve in the air cleaner neck is controlled by the Hot Idle Control Valve (HIC) located inside the 2F air cleaner cover. The HIC very slowly opens and closes the HAI valve attempting to regulate the air temp going to the carb between 81º and 91º F.
In 1986, this was Toyota's best solution for supplying the optimum air temp to the carb for what they wanted to do.

With the front manifold HAI (unobtanium) insulator installed correctly, the air cleaner gets super heated air from around the manifold mixing with the cooler air coming in from the outside, resulting in a net air temp mixture of approx 81º to 91º F going to the carb.

That is all the carb needs, according to Toyota's 1986 spec... a minimum of 81º F.

Once the engine has been running for a few minutes after startup, depending on how cold it is outside, the air temp inside the engine compartment warms above 81º (which is the minimum temp range of the HIC) and the air sucked out of the bottom of the HAI valve, without the benefit of a manifold insulator connected, is plenty warm to do the deed that needs to be done.
re-reading this and my own posts all these years latter....I now know why my HAI and HIC don't work, even though they test good and work per fsm. I never replaced my manifold insulator on my fj60....so its not getting the super heated air in the air cleaner.....lol...all these years latter mystery solved. of course my fj40 with intact insulator works per the FSM
 
Good to know it actually does something. I hope we can get someone to make a repro or at least a pipe welded to an undrilled sheet metal piece that gives you optons to DIY the fit a bit.
 
Anyone doing HAI with headers? I'm pretty sure that I'm going to figure out something.

Anyone deleting the air cleaner flapper (1/75 onward) for a manual valve? I realize that the air temp might be wildly out of control, but that is how Toyota did it for the F.5.

Winter performance is particularly lacking on my 2F, in my climate.
 
Hi. I need to make a front heat shield and port for the air tube to connect on my '78. It's not passing smog until I get this contraption fabricated. So, does anyone know the OD for the elbow that connects to the heat shield? Is it 2" or 2.25"? I'm going to order the air tube from city racer but I'd like to get started in advance. I was thinking I'd just use some sheet metal and a generic exhaust pipe elbow. Form it a bit to match the manifold bolts and paint it so it doesn't look cheap. Anyone have a better solution for the elbow?
 
Hi. I need to make a front heat shield and port for the air tube to connect on my '78. It's not passing smog until I get this contraption fabricated. So, does anyone know the OD for the elbow that connects to the heat shield? Is it 2" or 2.25"? I'm going to order the air tube from city racer but I'd like to get started in advance. I was thinking I'd just use some sheet metal and a generic exhaust pipe elbow. Form it a bit to match the manifold bolts and paint it so it doesn't look cheap. Anyone have a better solution for the elbow?
If you've still got the air cleaner housing, it's the same size up top as it is on the manifold insulator. Might let you get going...I'd assume you have the air cleaner upper, or there's nothing to attach to. 🙃
 
'75 OE Fed drivetrain

drivetrain.jpg


rear insulator

GEDC1505.JPG



By far the best performance enhancement is delivering summer-temp air to a carbureted engine. Folks on mud complain about carb troubles, but, really, Toyota's engineers were on top of it long before 3FE. Carb threads are long, because the work performed is usually kinda lacking, and TBI threads will never end, because O2 sensors remain in question - I actually hope that this is my gross overstatement, but that is what I'm picking up on. HAI It really helps when it is below 40F, and when it is colder than 20, the engine really can't handle that cold mix, at least at my altitude, and using the choke just starves the engine at the main nozzle/upper throttle. Maybe I'll be able to hook up the exhaust manifold, who knows.

It is a shame that this system was tossed aside by so many mechanics, they didn't understand the engineering.

So, there were differences in exhaust manifolds, '74 'til 3FE. Same with the shields?

Mine aren't installed, so if you need me to measure anything let me know.
 
Ok. Posting here for posterity.

This monstrosity is made out of 22 gauge sheet metal from the Home Depot. I'm a terrible welder, equipped with a sad excuse of a flux core welder. All I'm capable of doing is sticking one piece of metal to another. I just wanted something to fit like OEM, get me past the smog police, and maybe last a year or two. Perhaps someday I'll make a nice one. Or, here is a better idea: maybe one of you reproduction parts dudes will make a front heat insulator. I'll be your first customer. People will pay.

Otherwise, they'll end up with something like this ...

ohgod.jpg
 
I've been hunting for a reasonable shop press, but no luck yet. Something like this feels like a good candidate to do some low-use 3D-printed dies...but need a press first. 🙃 My original was thin but serviceable - I tacked in some washers where the mounts were rotted out...so a new one would be nice for my rig as well. Interestingly enough, I don't notice much change in air temps on the Sniper with it, but who knows. (My flapper does work)

Not bad for doing 22ga with flux core...that's a tall task. "A grinder and paint makes you the welder you ain't" 😆
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom