Builds Homer's 2003 GX470 Build 8.2 4.56 2.5 34s (3 Viewers)

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Sidewalk flex with the 1.5” bumptop extension hits the axle. The shock is about 18.5” from center of eyelet to top washer. So, it seems my oem bumpstops don’t need the 1.5” bumpstop extension since my shocks go to 17” compressed
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Same sidewalk flex without the bump-stop extension doesn’t hit the axle and doesn’t restrict articulation.

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Restricting articulation can be good if you're having tire clearance issues
 
Restricting articulation can be good if you're having tire clearance issues
Right. The rear bump stops seem like such a non-brainer upgrade item, but in reality you have to measure to your specific GX470 rear suspension modified components!

I need to stuff the rear tires to their max. My sidewalk flex test is not enough to max out the articulation and check the following:
1. Tires rub the wheel well (I have 285s at 32.7" tall)
2. Bump stop hit the axle at the right spot (I have oem bump stops that are about 4" tall)
3. Shock is within its compressed minimum length (mine is 17" compressed; 28.5" extended)

Moreover, the older OEM bumpstops (one hole) for the 2003-2005 GX470s were replaced by a revised two hole OEM bump stop. Not sure the reason they were revised by Toyota. I'm not sure if they are both the same length, but I'm thinking the two-hole bumpstop compresses a little more. Can't find any specs on the compression of these. The OEM bumpstops are about $94/pair plus tax and shipping.

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The Timbren active bump stops have these specs and would require a bump stop extension bracket because they appear to compress way more than the stock OEM revised bump stops.

2,000 lb capacity
4,800 lb bump load capacity
Overall kit height = 5”
Total deflected (compressed) height = 2.75”
Amount of deflection (compression) = 2.25”
 
Well, my homemade rear bump stop extension came off today. I don't really need it. I might just get new revised OEM ones.
 
Have the wrinkles settled a bit over the past few weeks? A steamer may work out some of those creases and tighten it up.
That’s a good pointer on the steamer, but I haven’t done anything to the leather seats. I should probably apply some type of leather conditioner/protector.

The wrinkles have improved, but still feels slightly loose when I sit.
 
Almost $500 to be able to carry gas outside. Gobi ladder ($250), Overland Equipped Premium HD Rotopax Mounting kit ($65), Rotopax locking mount ($75), 3-gal Rotopax fuel can ($75), and upgraded non-eco spout ($9). Prices include shipping and tax when applicable.

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You’re cheating! The roof rack is needed to carry up there.

I didn’t want to carry inside. I don’t want gas smell if you happen to spill while filling the tank or filling up the gas can.

And how did you get the scepter for $60? Those are illegal! Lol. Jelly talk.
 
Well, I joined the fray of the new grille. I ordered on impulse even though it was expensive. I won't go into the details on how to install it. I'll just go over the issues that I had installing it. Essentially, more lipstick for my pig.

First, my Lexus OEM grille had most of its plastic brackets already broken. In fact, my Lexus OEM grille was being held by one or two bolts. No wonder the grille used to move when I closed the hood! Since this 2003 GX470 has been in SoCal all its life, the nuts and bolts were not rusted and I was able re-use all of them.

Second, I painted flat black the LEXUS logo. I didn't like how it stood out so much. I wish I could custom make a GX.PRO or a GX470 logo for the front, but that will have to wait.

Third, I didn't use the strip of foam included with the grille. My grille fit pretty good without the foam, so I left it alone.

Finally, I did break a plastic bracket at the bottom of the wire rod that attaches to the hood latch. I ended up bending the tip to hold the wire rod in place, but I need to look for a replacement plastic bracket like the red one at the top of the wire rod. I don't want to go offroading and have the wire rod come undone because it will make opening the hood a challenge.

Also, I started a separate thread on how to connect the raptor lights to the engine fuse box, but I'm waiting for Amazon to deliver the MINI tap-a-fuse connector and 5 Amp MINI fuses. Once those arrive, then I'll finish my post on that. There's a few videos and write ups on how to wire it, so my post focuses on the details of the tap-a-fuse method.

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Found the part number for the broken plastic clip for the hood rod...for documentation purposes.

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The grille looks good! Yes albeit a bit expensive, but it looks good. I have been reading that included hardware has been kinda junky but if you can reuse then no worries there.

I’ve noticed my grille is also only held on by a couple brackets and the rest are broken so I’m very tempted to buy one but I’m just not quite sure yet. I’ll keep an eye out for your light wiring and final review to help sway me one way or the other
 
Check to make sure you can re-use your existing grille’s bolts and nuts. Some people have reported they were rusted out and couldn’t re-use.

And be careful unbolting the hood latch mechanism. Take pictures of that area prior to unbolting it. Just in case yours falls off like mine and spend 30 minutes looking inside the engine bay for the fallen latching plate.

Waiting for parts on the raptor lights wiring…next weekend hopefully.
 
Nice and welcome! ☺️

I was also in the impulse club and have some install tips n tricks in my build thread. Yes, hood latch is easily reinstalled incorrectly!!
I used a tap-a-circuot too but did mine to ign in the cabin fuse panel..

That blacked out looks good on the grey rig. 👍
 
Check to make sure you can re-use your existing grille’s bolts and nuts. Some people have reported they were rusted out and couldn’t re-use.

And be careful unbolting the hood latch mechanism. Take pictures of that area prior to unbolting it. Just in case yours falls off like mine and spend 30 minutes looking inside the engine bay for the fallen latching plate.

Waiting for parts on the raptor lights wiring…next weekend hopefully.
Here is another grill insert option:


TRD Style Grille | Etsy - https://etsy.me/3avVIev
 
Nice and welcome! ☺️

I was also in the impulse club and have some install tips n tricks in my build thread. Yes, hood latch is easily reinstalled incorrectly!!
I used a tap-a-circuot too but did mine to ign in the cabin fuse panel..

That blacked out looks good on the grey rig. 👍
You have a picture of your hood latch? I’m not sure I installed mine correctly.

And you are one of those who tapped a critical fuse. Just remember to check the tap a fuse if you have engine problems.
 
You have a picture of your hood latch? I’m not sure I installed mine correctly.

And you are one of those who tapped a critical fuse. Just remember to check the tap a fuse if you have engine problems.
Man, I was psyched on my install. Critical fuse.. did you have to put it like that? 😖🤣👍

Here is the latch. The key is mounting the latch on the bottom side of the grille's mounting tab, not on the tip side..
It's still a little finicky and I think that mounting tab could be a bit better reinforced, some grind the latch hook for better clearance, I just finesse the handle side.
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Well Merry Christmas and thanks for the pictures. I installed it upside down…arghhhh.
 
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Look what arrived just now! No mention of the spring rate and Bilstein USA has not responded to my inquiry regarding spring rate.

Bilstein USA recommends the 5160s shock 25-227611 to go with these heavy duty front coilovers
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Back to the front coilovers Bilstein 6112 kit #47-284142 with the heavy springs.

ShockSurplus.com says these are 700 lbf/in coils. Bilstein USA never replied to me.

I can’t tell from looking at the coils nor does it say anywhere in the Bilstein box/website.

Anyways, I’m getting ready to install and try them out but I’m already thinking it’s gonna be too stiff.
 

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