Home made AC (1 Viewer)

[Vossie]

Done some searching but turned up bingo info.

has any one ever attempted to use the stock heater as the AC unit with an evap inline to the supply?

some thing like this:

remove this connector here from stock set up

and make something like this with the evap

would it work?

 

[waiting for time]

I think you woeld like to have a bypass for the evaporator.
But if you go there why not build a new central unit with more outlets for different positions, makes it more effective.

 

[Vossie]

I think you woeld like to have a bypass for the evaporator.
But if you go there why not build a new central unit with more outlets for different positions, makes it more effective.

thats the plan. where the outlets for the windscreen goes, add a t peice and route some air somewhere else, probably up to the over head console.

when you say bypass, what do you mean?

 

[waiting for time]

You don't want the air going through the evaporator when the heat is on.
Then you want the evaporator in a low spot to release the condensation from the cooling air.
It is better to build or modify the heater unit, it should be easy with the blower outside the unit.

 

[allan man]

If im looking at it correctly that evaporator would be to small to cool the cabin....but a little AC is better than no AC.

 

[waiting for time]

If im looking at it correctly that evaporator would be to small to cool the cabin....but a little AC is better than no AC.

It depends on the number of rows.

 

[Vossie]

You don't want the air going through the evaporator when the heat is on.
Then you want the evaporator in a low spot to release the condensation from the cooling air.
It is better to build or modify the heater unit, it should be easy with the blower outside the unit.

but if have the AC off (the compressor) when the heater is on the air should just pass through, right?

down low? sorry, i am a dumbass when it comes to this kind of thing.

i also dont want to mess with the stock heater bc it works as heater already.

If im looking at it correctly that evaporator would be to small to cool the cabin....but a little AC is better than no AC.

i could make it as big as it needs to be. it doesnt have to fit inside the connector, as i would make a new connector body to house a correct size evap

 

[White Stripe]

Done some searching but turned up bingo info.

has any one ever attempted to use the stock heater as the AC unit with an evap inline to the supply?

some thing like this:

remove this connector here from stock set up
View attachment 1508075

and make something like this with the evap
View attachment 1508076

would it work?

It would probably work in my opinion.

 

[Steamer]

In “general” when it comes to duct size for heating and cooling, the cooling ducts need to carry more volume of air thus larger ducts are required. This is because the temperature difference between air entering the coil and the coil temp itself is considerably higher for a heating system. I feel your design would work but perform poorly unless the stock duct was oversized to begin with.

 

[UZJ40]

I do not think the stock fan moves the amount of air you'd want/need

You would need a 'dam' to collect the condensation that has dripped off the evaporator into the OEM tube

As mentioned, you'd need a larger duct to accommodate a larger evaporator

As far as I know, it does't matter if you send heated air through the evaporator or vice versa.

 

[White Stripe]

The stock fan is comparable to any other blower fan as far as output, so I don't think that is a issue. Plus all fans in vehicles down to this day are variable as far as output. Turn it on low, you get cold air, turn it on hi, you get cold air but more of it. Basically you would need the tube to go from its small rectangular size to a larger size big enough to house a decent size evaporator.

 

[lcwizard]

but if have the AC off (the compressor) when the heater is on the air should just pass through, right?

down low? sorry, i am a dumbass when it comes to this kind of thing.

i also dont want to mess with the stock heater bc it works as heater already.


i could make it as big as it needs to be. it doesnt have to fit inside the connector, as i would make a new connector body to house a correct size evap

Actually you're right. Toyota gives you the option of having the compressor on with the heater. This draws the moisture out of the air making the
defroster work many times better. If you look at a 60 series or any of the truck ( can't say for cars, I've never owned a car ) the compressor is actuated by a button. The user manual even states that to make the defroster work more efficiently you should run the compressor with the heat.

On many new vehicles, my Dodge Dually for one, the same is build in. Many new cars run a variable displacement compressor. It is always on
pump the compressor displacement varies according to demand. The colder you turn the dial , the more refrigerant it pumps.

 

[JohnnyC]

Like this:

Unusual aircon system.. Who manufactured it?

 

[waiting for time]

If you force the air through the evaporator it wil create extra resistance giving less air plus you don't want the cold air going through the heater.
The biggest issue however is the polution of the evaporator. Because you don't have an interior filter a lot of "stuf" will get trapped in your evaporator creating unhealty air and more resistance.
Because your evaporator doesn't heat up and creates moisture it is the perfect breading place for spores.
With an open systen were all the air travels through the evaporator it will get toxic very fast.

 

[lcwizard]

If you force the air through the evaporator it wil create extra resistance giving less air plus you don't want the cold air going through the heater.
The biggest issue however is the polution of the evaporator. Because you don't have an interior filter a lot of "stuf" will get trapped in your evaporator creating unhealty air and more resistance.
Because your evaporator doesn't heat up and creates moisture it is the perfect breading place for spores.
With an open systen were all the air travels through the evaporator it will get toxic very fast.

All air travels through evaporators if you have AC and you use the temp controls. There are flappers that blend the air from the heater core with air through the evaporator to get the hot/cold mix you ask for when turning the temp up or down. In the scenario listed here , the air will be chilled with the evaporator then passed across the heater core where the air temp can be raised with the pull knob that control engine coolant flow.
There may be some systems that have a "vent" position that bypasses the HVAC system on some vehicles. I couldn't say for sure. The 40
has one. It's to the left of the clutch pedal on the drivers side (USA) and the right of the passenger's right foot

 

[waiting for time]

Modern systems have filters in the air intake and with the climate and dust in Zimbabwe the buildup of debris in the evaporator wil be worse.