HJ47 welcome here?

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WOW :bounce:

HJ you really have built a great looking 47 there !

The blue with the Alloy tray and the silver rims is a very nice combination, it makes all the other "newer" vehicles in the yard look shabby :lol:
In my opinion on of the best modification you did was with the 75 series turn signals. They really look like the factory designed it like that , the PO removed the lamps on mine and I was considering putting the earlier round ones on but I may do the same as you.

Well done, once you have the few little teething problems sorted out you will not need a house.....you will be spending all your time driving around :D

:cheers:NT
 
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Hi HJ.

I had been thinking of fitting stainless pads on my hood for my "hood cushions" - but I never imagined that the factory had already done so with later models till looking at your b-e-a-u-t-i-f-u-l HJ47 just now.

I think I'm going to try to copy that ! :) And the bit of stainless for the hood strut too.

I didn't realize that those stainless rubbing plates for the bonnet were specific to the '79~'84 trucks. at one point i thought I'd lost mine, and tried to get them new from Toyota, but they are no longer available - anywhere. Fortunately the old ones turned up and were perfectly reusable. There's a thin plastic packing piece under the steel. I used backing washers on the rivets to help them draw the plates up tight.

I have a spare set of the stainless rubbing plates, if ya want them (you know, free). They would need re-chroming. PM me if you want them.

For the hood support strut, I glued a small piece of sheet rubber on top of the apron at the hole for the strut end to go in - to prevent the strut from taking the paint off.
 
WOW :bounce:

HJ you really have built a great looking 47 there !

The blue with the Alloy tray and the silver rims is a very nice combination, it makes all the other "newer" vehicles in the yard look shabby :lol:
In my opinion on of the best modification you did was with the 75 series turn signals. They really look like the factory designed it like that , the PO removed the lamps on mine and I was considering putting the earlier round ones on but I may do the same as you.

Well done, once you have the few little teething problems sorted out you will not need a house.....you will be spending all your time driving around :D

:cheers:NT

Thanks a lot :cheers:

I'm looking forward to ironing out the little teething problems over the coming week.

I'm glad you liked the signal lamps. The 70 series signal light conversion came out well it seemed to me as well, though it was a bit more work to pull it off than it looked like when I first took a look at doing it. in case anyone else is interested in following in those footsteps, I've attached a couple of detail photos showing the factory metal pressing on the 70 series apron to accept the signal lamps. I hope, if you take a look back a few pages in my build, that i have been able to create a reasonable facsimile of the factory mount. Nothing that a bit of welding, drilling, and polyester filler shaping can't overcome.

another cool 'mod' i considered instead of the 70 series signals was going to the very early 40 series bib with the signal lights build into its lower edge, and i think i may have gone that route if my truck had the round bezel.

"...you will not need a house.....you will be spending all your time driving around..." yes, and another reason for that is that I can no longer afford a house. I think I may well have to move into the truck, given the bills that have piled up. Pretty soon i will have to go through the bills and add it all up. I'll post the, ahem, "final" tally on this thread at some point soon.
70 series indicator 2-small.webp
70 series indicator-small.webp
 
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Way to go Henry, looks great.

Couple things, I would add more mud flap to the front edge of the tray mud guards, similar to the other post previous. I just got a T100 and found in a very short amount of time, even with careful driving on dry roads, that the rocks have chipped the new paint job very quickly. I'm actually getting some of the 3M clear paint protectant film, should be here this week, to save some of the paint. Stupid me, should have ordered it two months ago when I got the truck like I wanted to, but got too busy to do it. Some of that on the back of the cab may help protect it too.

Other thing, move your trailer plug up higher, maybe on top of the rear frame crossmember. I guarantee it will get damaged in that position. Nothing worse than finding your trailer plug is all bent up, stuffed with mud, or the wires are damaged when you need it most on a dark night and you need to use a trailer. I mounted mine on a heavy peice of angle iron in a similar location as yours, except mine was on the bottom of the rear crossmember, next to the reciever. So far the receiver has taken most of the scrapes and blows, but I have drug, and or backed into stuff and hit my plug. The heavy angle has kept if from bending and such, but it has not been completely ideal. With yours lower, I suspect it may get damaged, and you have the oppurtunity to place it higher under the tray, unlike a stock body configuration.

One other thing I saw was your accelerator cable fix. I tried a similar fix on a lawnmower control once, never did hold properly. I'd keep a closee eye on it. However, the shin muscle hurting thing is a cruiser thing. There is a lack of support in the accel pedal, so you hold your foot up, makes the shin hurt for sure. You can try to get the pedal adjusted better, but don't let the throw get too short, or else you can't get full throttle, the pedal will hit the floor too soon.

Best of luck on the inspection, you have done a great job, wish it were mine, I think you are really going to enjoy it.
 
Way to go Henry, looks great.

Couple things, I would add more mud flap to the front edge of the tray mud guards, similar to the other post previous. I just got a T100 and found in a very short amount of time, even with careful driving on dry roads, that the rocks have chipped the new paint job very quickly. I'm actually getting some of the 3M clear paint protectant film, should be here this week, to save some of the paint. Stupid me, should have ordered it two months ago when I got the truck like I wanted to, but got too busy to do it. Some of that on the back of the cab may help protect it too.

Other thing, move your trailer plug up higher, maybe on top of the rear frame crossmember. I guarantee it will get damaged in that position. Nothing worse than finding your trailer plug is all bent up, stuffed with mud, or the wires are damaged when you need it most on a dark night and you need to use a trailer. I mounted mine on a heavy peice of angle iron in a similar location as yours, except mine was on the bottom of the rear crossmember, next to the reciever. So far the receiver has taken most of the s****es and blows, but I have drug, and or backed into stuff and hit my plug. The heavy angle has kept if from bending and such, but it has not been completely ideal. With yours lower, I suspect it may get damaged, and you have the oppurtunity to place it higher under the tray, unlike a stock body configuration.

One other thing I saw was your accelerator cable fix. I tried a similar fix on a lawnmower control once, never did hold properly. I'd keep a closee eye on it. However, the shin muscle hurting thing is a cruiser thing. There is a lack of support in the accel pedal, so you hold your foot up, makes the shin hurt for sure. You can try to get the pedal adjusted better, but don't let the throw get too short, or else you can't get full throttle, the pedal will hit the floor too soon.

Best of luck on the inspection, you have done a great job, wish it were mine, I think you are really going to enjoy it.

That's great advice there again MoCoNative - thanks a lot! I have a set of mud flaps that came with the trailer - white in color - that could go on the front I suppose. I can definitely see that the paint on the lower rear part of the cab could get mauled in short order by stuff thrown off the rear tire.

As for the accel. cable, I'm feeling the same way about it as you are, and plan to keep a close eye on it. I picked up some 1/16" crimps for connecting wire, so if I have any problems with it at all, I'll throw a couple of crimps on. I even have a spare cable end should I need it.

And as for the trailer socket, I agree that it would be better relocated up and out of the way, for the same reasons you have cited.

I went by Radd Cruisers today, after a run to a nearby junkyard, where i scavenged a 1980 Toyota pick up steering wheel, a pair of seat belt receivers that work with my mini-truck seat belts, and a brand new block heater cord that happened to be in the back seat of some wreck. The pick up steering wheel is not exactly a colr match for my trucks interior, but it has a bit of charm. I still search or the perfect steering wheel - this one will do for the short term.

They had my truck up on the hoist. I still have a few leaks in the brake system :mad: , and there is some sort of oil leak emanating from the oil filter area. Hopefully it is just the filter needed screwing down a little tighter. There were lots of other bolts not done up tight too, so I'm doubly glad that yesterdays little ride had no mishaps or parts that fell off.
 
Flaring your own brake lines has given me hours and days of frustrations. Usually for me the damn things won't flare properly, and even if it looks good, it still won't seal. Don't know if it is the cheap tools I have used, or the appearant low quality of the brake lines you can buy at the local auto parts places. Either way it can be very hard to do well. Hopefully you can get it all to seal up without much fuss.

I can't quite recall your delima with the accel cable, I recall it was length issues and not the right ends. I would try putting a barrel end on each of the bare ends you have now. Then I would make an adpter that would allow each barrel to hook on each end. I would also make it so the lenght inbetween the two barrel attachments can be shortened or lengthened to account for cable stretch. A socket for the barrel ends is not overly hard to make. I made one from medium guage metal folded in half so the cable could protrude out. Then on each side of the folded steel it kind of looks like a fish hook. Then used a small cotter pin on the open side in a small hole, so if the cable slackened, the cable could not fall out of the open side of the fold.

the folded steel then can be welded to a bolt, and then the bolts can be put in one of those long nuts, so that when you turn them, you can shorten or lengthen the whole deal, similar to many of the Toyota linkages on the carbs and stuff. In fact I used some carb linkage parts for my adapter, bet you could find something at the yard if you want. For that matter, the barrels on the ends of the FJ-60 choke cables and the socket on the carb could be used. The barrels are only soldered on, and you could cut off the sockets from bad carbs and weld to the threaded parts on the extension nut ont he linkage on the backside of a FJ-60 carb.

That in my mind would make a more solid splice in your line, and new cables can be easliy put in, stock form usually from the pedal or the pump to splice one. Just my idea of course, let me know if my invention description above makes no sense.
 
the bottom line

Well, the truck sits at Radd Cruisers. Not much has happened to it over the past couple of days, except for getting the brake lines sorted out this afternoon. It seems I didn't do such a hot job trying to double-flare the poly-coated brake lines. In some cases I appear to have over-compressed the second flare, or I have ended up with a single flare instead of double in some cases. If there is a next time, I hope to do a better job. "Can't be perfect at everything first time", as someone remarked recently.

I took the roof off and folded the windshield down to re-attach the windshield sprayer line. Also changed out the seat belt anchors to work with my seat belts. Those are two areas that needed to be done to pass inspection.

The exhaust parts are sitting there on the floor ready to go in. I imagine that will happen tomorrow morning. I have discussed the pipe routing with both John and Rob. I'm trying to keep it tucked up and out of the way.

Then, this afternoon, i tackled the fateful pile of receipts :eek: to see how much I had in fact spent on this rebuild since starting it in November of 2005. This may be of some interest to readers, especially those considering doing a rebuild themselves and trying to get a handle on how much it might cost.

:whoops:

Well, the damage seems to total about $30,000 in parts and materials alone. Buying the truck and getting it here from Oz was around $11,000. I figure there may be $2~3000 unaccounted for in my receipt pile, so the grand total is pretty close to $45,000. Labor was of course 'free' (ha hah)

-About $7500 was in basic materials, like spray paint, blast media, oil, cleaners, machining services, welding gas, etc etc.
-5 tires, plus the mounting, de-mounting for changing rims, valve cores etc ran $1375. It was worth it to get good quality rubber, but I could have gone a cheaper route.
-As for the Toyota parts, SOR got some $2300, 4WheelAuto got $4500 (I wish it weren't so), Japan4x4 a bit over $2000, CCOT $2500 or so, Cruiserparts.net received a little over $400, and my local Toyota dealer another $825.
-I spent in the neighborhood of $750 buying the odd part here and there off of Ebay, like my speedo cluster recently.
-my costs at the post office for duties and taxes on packages received is around another $750 or so.
-$2000 was the cost of the replacement 2H from the wreckers.



Whew! I am a little shell-shocked, and wondering how I got so deranged to spend all this money. Has it been worth it?

..uh...






































...too early to tell. I need to actually drive my truck for a while before I draw any conclusions. At the moment I'm feeling pretty destitute. Soon the drain on finances will end, won't it? :rolleyes: Please, I need to get off this ride now, I'm getting dizzy.

Who out there is surprised by how much this cost? Or is this no surprise at all?

If I had any idea that this project would last this long, require this much commitment of time, energy and financial resources, I'm sure I wouldn't have taken it on. But that's not what happened, as things went step-by-step and I feel i made mostly good decisions at each juncture along the way. The net effect of all those choices however wasn't in focus until I added up the costs.

I realize that had I more of an idea about what I was doing - you know, had experience at rebuilding a vehicle - I'm sure i could have saved a bit of money and time over what took place, however I don't imagine the savings would amount to more than about $5000 or so. Toyota parts cost what they do, and in the case of my truck I needed a lot of parts. I feel fortunate to have obtained many of the items I did, as the twilight of availability is definitely there for a lot of the 45/47-specific parts. Be prepared to hear the word 'obsolete' when looking for many parts my friends. I could have spent less on aftermarket stuff, but almost all the aftermarket stuff i have seen, especially the non-Japan made stuff, is definitely poorer quality than OEM. I decided not to cut any corners and bought oem pretty much exclusively after the initial disappointments when the other stuff arrived.

Next time, i would have bought the SOR club membership from the get-go, as i think that would have saved me a several hundred dollars over the duration of this project. It would have been better as well to have done fewer large orders than so many little ones, as the s&h charges from SOR really add up after a while.

I realize it would have been worth the money to have flown to Australia to inspect the vehicle before committing to purchase. At the outset, that did not seem to be a reasonable option, and I am inclined to trust people, so I went along with a seller who later proved to be quite mendacious (isn't this the usual story?). The poor condition of the truck I received, combined with my drive to make it 'right' again led me down a particular path, and it was an expensive one. Lesson learned: start with the best, most complete possible truck you can afford.

Unless you can afford to lose your money, it is likely worth traveling, no matter how far, to look at the prospect before committing. A trusted friend who knows cruisers would also be an asset if you are new to the scene.

Tools and equipment were an area of expense where I had some good luck. Rebuilding to the extent i have gone to requires a fair amount of gear. Fortunately i was able to borrow a welder, an engine hoist, and a gravity-fed sandblaster for the duration. If i had to pony up $1500 or so for a welder, this project may have taken a lot longer to get off the ground, or might not have even happened. I naively thought i would have the welder for "only a few months" when i put the deposit down on the tank and went to a monthly rental. it would have been cheaper to lease right away, or even better to have bought the tank.

I was reluctant to spend the money on an HVLP sprayer, suit and full face mask, etc, so i went with rattle cans for a lot of the smaller parts. That was not cost-effective in the end, and again, i had no idea as i got into it how much would be involved and underestimated the money i would drop on rattle cans of paint, primer, etc. I would have gotten better results, and spent less money had I put the cash down on the spray equipment at the beginning. Then i could have bought much better quality primers, sandable primers, and the rest, than the sometimes marginal products out in some brands of spray paint. Brands I'd recommend: Duplicolor, SEM, and PPG of course if buying by the quart/gallon. A brand I now avoid: ProForm

Paint materials in general are far more expensive than I ever imagined. The 13 cans of Wurth filler, half of which was surely sanded off, added up to nearly $300, just to give a sense of it. Good quality body paint, reducer, and hardener will run $600-900 for a typical vehicle easily. A rattle can of primer costs $8~12 and lasts up to 10 minutes when you're using it. I am sure my total costs for bodywork materials was over $2000.

I'm thinking now that it may have been more cost and time-effective to have bought other new body panels, like hood, roof, and the other fender, as the amount of time energy and materials involved in getting the old parts straight and rust-free was huge. and sure, i learned about body work by taking the approach i did. Do I plan now to move into a career as a bodyman? No.

The LHD conversion was one of the central pieces of this build. Some people have asked me about that. I have no issue with RHD vehicles, having driven both sides of the road in various places around the world. I was very lucky to have received the LHD cab as a gift from SeaPotato. If that hadn't come along, I really wonder what would have happened? Maybe I would have tried to repair the rusted out RHD cab valance. Maybe I would have sat on it for a while saved my pennies and bought a Heritage tub. One thing is certain: converting from RHD to LHD, or vice-versa, even on a relatively crude vehicle as a 40 series, is no simple matter. Don't listen to anyone who tells you that it can be knocked off for cheap in a few hours. There's a lot to it, not just in swapping the firewalls, but in all the other myriad pieces that have to be changed out. The latest discovery was today when I discovered that my windshield wipers from the old RHD set up are backwards for mounting on my LHD windshield frame, so I need to change those out as well.

Another main aspect to this build was the steering system, ranging from the beefy 4x4Labs knuckle arms and tie rods, etc (and all the hassles I had (and continue to have) with them - now it's looking like the relay rod might not be the right length...Christ, I am so done with this s-h-i-t.), to the Bandeirante power steering gearbox (so far working marvelously), to the 60 series tilt column and subsequent involved dash changes. The jury is still out on the column. I'm pleased with the way the dash came out, as it looks, to me at least, pretty 'factory'. I'm optimistic the wiper motor problem can be solved and made fully functional, though it might not happen immediately.

And finally, god help you if you have to pay someone to do this amount of work on your truck. I know if i had to pay shop rates, this sport would be way out of my league. I'm just trying to survive it now, licking my wounds so to speak and hopeful that it will seem worth it in the end. I have gained a lot of knowledge and some new skills over this project, and have met some great people in the Cruiser Community - that has been very worthwhile indeed. I hope others may benefit from my experience, and many mistakes along the way.

A final point in this post: get the correct factory manuals for your truck, as they are such a huge help.

And no, this is not my last post - there's still a few hurdles to jump with this project, and i plan to keep y'all up to date as things develop. And if i can jump these hurdles in the next week or so, guess what? Well, I'm planning to load the truck up with all my stuff and embark on a move across the continent and down into the belly of the beast known as the USA. Only a woman could persuade me of such a rash course of action, I might add.

I'm getting married in October in Massachusetts. My partner wisely decided to let me get the cruiser rebuild "out of my system" early so she could avoid the dreaded "cruiser-widow" syndrome. She's a clever girl. What she's doing with me is one of those mysteries in life :hhmm:

The drive should be an entertaining one in mid summer without a/c, as with diesel prices at an all-time high. I'm placing my hopes in the cruiser gods for a safe and seamless passage.:steer:

Over and out for now.

:cheers:
 
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HJ,

Speaking for myself only, thank-you for the entertainment and the education throughout your build. Your honesty with the costs should help enlighten the critics who condemn the high asking prices of a truly well-restored truck. I agree with the assessment of the generally crappy aftermarket parts, and the reasons for the hunt for OEM and NOS replacements.

Kudos for finishing your project--I suspect that for every completed project out there, there probably are at least ten sitting undone in a garage or backyard. You cannot buy the pride you've earned for a job well done. I hope your lady-friend will read through what you have achieved, and increase her appreciation for your skills and talent!

If you ever get down to SoCal, give me a ring--I'd like to shake your hand!!

MS
.
.
 
Speaking for myself only, thank-you for the entertainment and the education throughout your build. Your honesty with the costs should help enlighten the critics who condemn the high asking prices of a truly well-restored truck. I agree with the assessment of the generally ****py aftermarket parts, and the reasons for the hunt for OEM and NOS replacements.

x2

Isn't it awesome to get it out on the road after such a big job? I know I'm seriously jealous of where your vehicle sits right now. Too bad that New Mexico isn't on the way from Vancouver Island to Massachusetts. I'd love to see your rig in person. After a nice road trip in Henry, I can't possibly imagine that she wouldn't be impressed by the old machinery and how elegantly simple it is. I know I would be.

Dan
 
I too appreciate your honesty. I too jumped into a build "too fast" and after suffering from a bad back and having time to sit and think for a while, ie. read your build, I seriously question my decision to do it. I do love the old cruisers, and wanted to have something that is different than every other ride out there, but you have to wonder if it is worth the effort. You should definately be proud of what you have achieved. I hope you like the ride so you can enjoy it. It is truely a labor of love. I was feeling like I had too much money invested to turn back, but after seeing your totals, it is definetly not too late. I think I will just accept that my project may become a 10 year project vs. 2 year. Keep up the great work.
 
Sweet, nice to see the finished product, I can hope I can duplicate the same resualts or come close to it.

Enjoyed reading your posts and job well done. I'm in the process in getting mine to work like it should and replacing parts that are beyond repairing before I start tearing down. (That part about replacing instead of repairing it in the post above reaffirms I'm least moving in the right direction) I appreciate you posting your in insight and advice.............like they say trail and error until you get right or the school of hard knocks go a long way especially when your are looking in from the outside.
 
Thanks for the support guys.


I just wanted to write a little update about the ongoing soap opera known as 4x4Labs.

I sent them the old knuckle arms back, on their dime, in mid-June. Today, about a month later, i finally received my refund on the deposit they charged me for sending the second set of arms out to me. This required 4 phone calls on my part. Seems like refunding money on a MasterCard is some sort of tricky affair....

I got a nice surprise from Fedex yesterday, as a bill of $89 showed up for, ahem, 'brokerage charges' on the last shipment of replacement knuckle arms that 4x4Labs sent. I see that Fedex is now onto the same scam that UPS pulls for over the border shipments, where these $40-100 dollar 'brokerage charges' are what we get in Canuckistan for having the temerity to cross-border shop in the US. :mad: That will be the last time I use them. I guess the post office is the only option left.

Anyway, read on...

Last night came the topper. I had pretty much thrown the steering together in the last weeks of this build, and had noticed that the geometry seemed pretty wonky. I had no time to look at it in detail however. I had the tie rod ends 3/4 of the way unscrewed out of the tie rod before I could even get the wheels remotely into the zone of being toed in. I was overwhelmed with so many things at the time that I simply figured that it could all be straightened out. When I drove the truck the other day down to Radd Cruisers shop, I found the truck tracked okay, but the steering was clearly way off center as I could turn one way very easily but could hardly turn the opposite direction. Lucky I made it really.

Again, at this point, i was concluding that it was my set up that caused this - surely 4x4Labs has the tie rod and relay rod lengths sorted out (?) For the drag link I was using the OEM Toyota part, so no questions there about whether it was correct or not.

Well, Rob took all the steering apart yesterday, centered the steering box pitman arm to the middle of its swing, and placed the hubs so that the wheels were toed in a couple of mm, as specified. The result: the tie rod is 3.5" too short, and the relay rod is about 2.25" too short. :censor:

'Incredulous' would describe my first reaction, followed shortly by disgust. I didn't even bother with anger this time. Then I asked John, the garage owner and very experienced cruiser mechanic, if there was anything even remotely unusual about my front axle and brake arrangement, with my oh-so-rare OME Dakar springs, etc. He said "no", it was a "completely typical run-of-the-mill Toyota 40 series axle".

I really don't get this. Every part that 4x4Labs has sent me, and they had 4 opportunities with the knuckle arms to get it right, has been a non-fit fu%k-up.

To top it all off, John said that the tapered holes in the knuckle arms to accept the TRE's were STILL too deep. I could see for myself that the rubber boots were way squished down when the TRE's were snugged up. Too late to do anything about that now, however bear in mind that i had brought this matter to the attention of Brian at 4x4Labs in the previous go-round, and he said he had made some changes to one of the jigs and that the depth was now "correct". wrong again.

So it seems folks, that if you want an interestingly-designed and ultra beefy steering set up that won't fit your truck no matter how many times you try, then look no further than 4x4Labs. If you want to buy a product that will require you spend hours in frustration making phone calls, repackaging items to return, and paying lots of extra bills over what you initially expected, then look no further than 4x4Labs.

I'm pissed, but I'm laughing too. Rarely does one come across such enduring incompetence on the part of a supplier. Am I the only disgruntled customer? My luck is not so good in this regard I suppose.

Now, just for some perspective, as you all know, I am a newbie when it comes to truck mechanics, though i have done a lot of bicycle mechanics. I had to buy a tapered reamer to enlarge my center arm mounts to accept the FJ80 TRE's that 4x4Labs uses. Despite my inexperience, and crude equipment (I used the reamer free hand in the drill press to do the job), I managed to not over-do the depth on the tapered holes. Must have been beginner's luck i guess.

On the sarcastic side, it seems like when you have more experience doing hundreds of these tapered holes, as one imagines 4x4Labs has, then it would appear that in the end, after lots of practice, you won't be able to get the depth right. I ought to be grateful for my 'luck' I suppose. :hillbilly:

This would have been more of a disaster had Radd cruisers not had a couple of lengths of DOM rod stock (intended for a different truck) on hand. Rob has a contact up island who can do the DOM tube machining, and they very kindly stayed up after the work day was done so Rob could make a run up there at 5:30 to get a piece of DOM threaded for the TRE. I'm very grateful to that machine shop for their help.

this whole screw up with the steering had caused me to miss the vehicle inspection appointment today. That will have to be re-scheduled for Monday now, which puts my moving plans back a few days. Oh well.

And 4x4Labs? Well i called them this morning, got Brian on the phone, explained the issue and gave them Radd Cruiser's phone number. I figure the least i could do was bring the matter to their attention. It will be their choice whether or not they want to do anything about it. I give up on them though and won't be giving them any more of my business or support. This ridiculous hassle over the past 4 months, not to mention the $1000 I am out of pocket for a bunch of mismatched junk.

Okay, on this issue I am done. No more :deadhorse:

I won't be calling the 'Lab' again for any reason if I can help it.

YMMV, good luck!
 
Ya know, HJ,

This kind of points up a good reason to do your business locally whenever possible.
When you can drive over to a company, look at the actual pieces, test fit them on the spot, talk face-to-face with the owner, and not have to pay shipping or call cross-continent, you will be way ahead--financially and mentally.

Secondly when you are lucky, and do find a competent supplier, keep using him to support his business success, and tell your friends you found a good-one, Even the most experienced mechanics periodically have to cancel suppliers when the workmanship gets shoddy or the prices become unrealistic. Consider yourself lucky you have a good shop nearby to correct these and other minor flub-ups from your project. Overall, looks like you have done a great job, and learned some great lessons. Hope you get to the point of doing another project for the fun it gives you!!
 
Ya know, HJ,

This kind of points up a good reason to do your business locally whenever possible.
When you can drive over to a company, look at the actual pieces, test fit them on the spot, talk face-to-face with the owner, and not have to pay shipping or call cross-continent, you will be way ahead--financially and mentally.

Secondly when you are lucky, and do find a competent supplier, keep using him to support his business success, and tell your friends you found a good-one, Even the most experienced mechanics periodically have to cancel suppliers when the workmanship gets shoddy or the prices become unrealistic. Consider yourself lucky you have a good shop nearby to correct these and other minor flub-ups from your project. Overall, looks like you have done a great job, and learned some great lessons. Hope you get to the point of doing another project for the fun it gives you!!
I couldn't agree with you more Bear in regards to how lucky i am to have a competent shop in the neighborhood.

I was also thinking the same thing: if you go for custom stuff, it is obviously FAR better to get it done at a shop - not over the internet and a few phone calls. This didn't seem too hard a deal though to do online - my truck may have its unusual aspects or features to it, but the front axle is not one of those pieces.

Here's the thing that I'm not quite understanding: the issue with both the tie rod and the relay rod was that they were too SHORT. If they were too long, it wouldn't be such a hassle to chop them down, re-tap the ends and good to go. If they were too long, i might have guessed that they built them to fit a 60 series, with its 9 cm wider axles. But no, they were short - meaning I could only recycle one of them into something usable (tie rod becomes relay rod), and then, it begs the question: what were these grossly short rods meant to fit in the cruiser line up? Which cruiser has a narrower track than a 40 series? These guys need to reconsider either their jigs, measuring techniques, communication, stock organization -I have no idea, but something is wrong over there. I don't know what they're doing over there at 4x4Labs, and no longer wish to bother dealing with them anyhow. Not on my "recommended" list.

The other point about having the good fortune to have Radd nearby is that they know how to go about things, and could diagnose that the rods were too short. I knew something was up with my rods when I put them on, and frankly i think a part of me didn't want to look, to believe that yet another part from 4x4Labs was also useless to me. I figured i had set them up wrong, when in fact they weren't capable of being set up to work properly at all.
 
I do cringe a little when i see the flatdeck not sitting level like that. Now that I've pointed that out, can the rest of you see it?

It's funny how my eyes always rush over to every flaw when I look at the truck, while most observers don't seem to notice (or care about for that matter. I didn't notice you took any pictures Rob - but thanks!. I should come by and snap a few more of the new exhaust system now that it is nearly done.

I put in a little time yesterday and completed the rear tail-light install, so they are fastened securely now and another item is off the list as far as getting it ready for inspection.

Next time you talk to Kyle, give him my heartfelt thanks for staying late to get those rods sorted properly. :cheers:

I'm still puzzling over which vehicle those 4x4labs tie and relay rods were set up to fit. It would have to be something with a 2~3" narrower track than a 40 series, so I'm guessing (barring the possibility that they were simply cut to the wrong length) they might fit something like a Suzuki Samurai (?).

So, it looks like the remaining bugs to iron out on the truck are as follows:

-install exhaust (it's 95% built as far as I can tell).
-sort out wiper motor wiring
-sort out vsv power situation, TM3 set-up

Non-inspection related:

-improve driver's door fit
-re-set flatdeck so it sits level (prolly will help to start with the truck on a level surface, which is clearly what I did NOT do originally). i expect I'll re-level it by bringing the rear end up a bit.
-tidy up wiring loom after repairs are done
-install heater and piping (need to get the hard lines for the coolant, along with the connectors (all went missing during my build)
-I'm building a simple metal tube and fabric canopy for the deck, to protect my stuff for the upcoming move. That will take at least a day to set up.
-install Tuffy Box and some sort of music system (will I be able to hear it with the engine running?)
-I located the two missing pieces of pipe that relate to my fuel evaporative and delievery system, including the mysterious line that goes 'to nothing', so I need to get those pipes cad-plated and then they can go in. That will have to wait a while.
-I'm planning to get new door glass soon enough. The are $125 each or so from SOR, which seems a little pricey, but at least the parts are available!
-a few OEM and repro decals need to be put on here and there
-the gasket on the rear cover plate of the pto drive box needs to be looked at because of the tiny leak coming from under the cover. RTV alone didn't seem to do the job.

The next few days should be entertaining.
 
Just to give the followers of this thread a heads-up: Brian from 4x4 Labs has been in contact with us at Radd Cruisers and they are working on some solutions for Chris' issues. It seems that there may have been some communication break downs as to what Chris has as a vehicle and what he wanted from the steering arms and the arms that he should have got.

The recommended arms for a 40 series with spring under and an OME lift are the ones with the tie rod end at the front of the axle and not behind axle as have been installed.

More later...
 

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