Chris, that is one heck of a nice job you are / have done.
Your idea about the accelerator damper is wonderful!
Your idea about the accelerator damper is wonderful!
HJ47 welcome here?
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Well thank you very much Mr. Stedman! 
I really enjoyed dealing with you and Japan4x4 over the past few months. I greatly appreciate your patience in tracking down parts for me.
There are quite a few parts on that truck that I sourced through Japan4x4, and without their help, and many others, my rebuild would not have turned out quite the same.
Today I'm packing my possessions onto the flatdeck and constructing a canopy over the works as I go. I'm about half way along.
Yesterday i took the truck for a decently long drive, over and hour and a half each way, with a detour in the middle, and the truck performed flawlessly. The throttle dampener has eliminated the problems with excessive throttle sensitivity. The truck cruises effortlessly at 55~60 mph (90~100 kph) and the motor sounds very sweet. No smoke, except on the first puff of start up, where the injector pump dumps a little extra fuel in. One second later, nothing. I'm relieved that the engine is in such fine condition. It does have a couple of fluid leaks that won't go away, but they aren't too bad.
I am suspicious that the problem with my oil gauge - it shows very low pressure most of the time - is possibly not about the gauge being worn out or defective, but might be related to the ohm rating of the gauge. I noticed in the FSM today that the FJ model and the BJ spec for the oil pressure received were different, 44 and 66 ohm IIRC. I now wonder how the HJ model compares to the other two? If the rating were different than the FJ, that would explain the problem i do believe. The instrument cluster I have comes from an FJ40 I'm pretty sure, as I bought it from a US seller. I'll look into it a little more and see what I can find out.
I really enjoyed dealing with you and Japan4x4 over the past few months. I greatly appreciate your patience in tracking down parts for me.There are quite a few parts on that truck that I sourced through Japan4x4, and without their help, and many others, my rebuild would not have turned out quite the same.
Today I'm packing my possessions onto the flatdeck and constructing a canopy over the works as I go. I'm about half way along.
Yesterday i took the truck for a decently long drive, over and hour and a half each way, with a detour in the middle, and the truck performed flawlessly. The throttle dampener has eliminated the problems with excessive throttle sensitivity. The truck cruises effortlessly at 55~60 mph (90~100 kph) and the motor sounds very sweet. No smoke, except on the first puff of start up, where the injector pump dumps a little extra fuel in. One second later, nothing. I'm relieved that the engine is in such fine condition. It does have a couple of fluid leaks that won't go away, but they aren't too bad.
I am suspicious that the problem with my oil gauge - it shows very low pressure most of the time - is possibly not about the gauge being worn out or defective, but might be related to the ohm rating of the gauge. I noticed in the FSM today that the FJ model and the BJ spec for the oil pressure received were different, 44 and 66 ohm IIRC. I now wonder how the HJ model compares to the other two? If the rating were different than the FJ, that would explain the problem i do believe. The instrument cluster I have comes from an FJ40 I'm pretty sure, as I bought it from a US seller. I'll look into it a little more and see what I can find out.
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Flat Land Living in the Midwest
Hello - I am at a stop over visiting an old friend in MN I have not seen for 12 years... Here is a photo of the truck wrapped in blue.
Hello - I am at a stop over visiting an old friend in MN I have not seen for 12 years... Here is a photo of the truck wrapped in blue.
DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
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Well, i made it across the continent, and i'm now in W. Massachusetts. The import procedure at the border in WA went seamlessly, so it will be no problem getting MA title.
The truck performed flawlessly in every respect. I had pretty close to a ton of weight on the flatdeck and was able to drive at a steady 60 mp/h for most of the trip. In the drive through the Rockies, through Eastern WA, Idaho, and Montana, I had to drop down to 3rd gear half a dozen times. No problems with overheating, braking, or anything like that. I was pretty amazed. Ya couldn't do that with too many vehicles. I'm glad I went for the cruiser a couple of years back instead of a Land Rover 109...
(can you imagine?)
Once i get back on my feet again here in MA, there are a few minor areas that need attention on the truck. There is a drop or two of oil coming down from the drivetrain in a couple of spots - the bellhousing, and the transfercase mounted brake drum. Not sure why the leak is coming out from the brake drum, as i have a new output shaft and new seals. Maybe that Mudrak double seal unit will be worth a look-see.
Also, my full floater will leak if the truck is leaning sideways for any length of time. I suspect that the problem with the FF is that I used the post-1980 axle shafts with the pre-1980 axle housing. The seals are new. So, I'm looking into solving that problem. The leak from the bellhousing must be either the rear main crank seal, or is coming from the front seal on the transmission. Again, i did put in a new seal into both components, so either I goofed up in the install, or there is something else going on.
Speaking of the transmission, it was the only part of the whole truck that i did not take apart - and to my relief it works perfectly. The gears of the H41, while seeming ridiculously low for regular driving, really come into their own when you put a ton of weight on the back of the truck.
Fuel economy was in the vicinty of 13~14mpg, which seems pretty good considering the gross weight. I will do the math shortly on that and post up the exact fuel exconomy for the 3500+ mile drive. The throttle mod I did with the dampener continues to work like a charm.
The truck gets a lot of attention - every day. I went through Sturgis South Dakota during Harley biker week, and the biker dudes were most interested in my rig as I rolled through. It is funny to get swarmed by a bunch of bikes.
Most mornings that i came out to the truck from whichever motel I had stayed in, i found one or two people looking at my truck and they always had lots of questions. The fact that the truck is a diesel seemed to baffle quite a few, as was the 1982 year of manufacture. I received a lot of very positive comments, and that was nice. Jeez, i'm almost famous (in my own mind anyhow).
I only say two other cruisers during the entire drive - a 60 series in Butte Montana (I honked at the driver as I went by and he returned only a blank stare), and an 80 series that passed me a couple of times. In fact, all in all, I saw virtually no interesting vehicles on the entire trip. I thought the US was the center of the automotive universe - where have all the cool rides gone? I don't think i saw one vehicle made before 1985. weird, huh?
The condition of the interstates in some locations was also a bit of a shock to me - in a word- terrible! It would appear that not much money has been spent on keeping the roads in good condition over the past few years - I guess there are other priorities down here for taxpayer money. It looks like that is changing in some places though, as I-90 had some l-o-n-g stretches of single lane and the roads were all dug up. I was glad at times to have the heavy suspension and good tires as I drove along.
The availability of diesel off the big interstates was not so good, and this forced me to spend more time on the interstates than I would have liked. It would appear the diesel=semi-trailer down here. The diesel pumps had the large nozzles on the end in most stations - luckily I was able to just push the nozzle down the filler neck. I was surpised that diesel is not so readily available in the US as it is in Canada. I guess a jerry can will be in order so that i can do a bit more exploring on future drives off the major routes.
I didn't take many pictures, but I will post up what I have once i get me home computer set up again.
The truck performed flawlessly in every respect. I had pretty close to a ton of weight on the flatdeck and was able to drive at a steady 60 mp/h for most of the trip. In the drive through the Rockies, through Eastern WA, Idaho, and Montana, I had to drop down to 3rd gear half a dozen times. No problems with overheating, braking, or anything like that. I was pretty amazed. Ya couldn't do that with too many vehicles. I'm glad I went for the cruiser a couple of years back instead of a Land Rover 109...
(can you imagine?)Once i get back on my feet again here in MA, there are a few minor areas that need attention on the truck. There is a drop or two of oil coming down from the drivetrain in a couple of spots - the bellhousing, and the transfercase mounted brake drum. Not sure why the leak is coming out from the brake drum, as i have a new output shaft and new seals. Maybe that Mudrak double seal unit will be worth a look-see.
Also, my full floater will leak if the truck is leaning sideways for any length of time. I suspect that the problem with the FF is that I used the post-1980 axle shafts with the pre-1980 axle housing. The seals are new. So, I'm looking into solving that problem. The leak from the bellhousing must be either the rear main crank seal, or is coming from the front seal on the transmission. Again, i did put in a new seal into both components, so either I goofed up in the install, or there is something else going on.
Speaking of the transmission, it was the only part of the whole truck that i did not take apart - and to my relief it works perfectly. The gears of the H41, while seeming ridiculously low for regular driving, really come into their own when you put a ton of weight on the back of the truck.
Fuel economy was in the vicinty of 13~14mpg, which seems pretty good considering the gross weight. I will do the math shortly on that and post up the exact fuel exconomy for the 3500+ mile drive. The throttle mod I did with the dampener continues to work like a charm.
The truck gets a lot of attention - every day. I went through Sturgis South Dakota during Harley biker week, and the biker dudes were most interested in my rig as I rolled through. It is funny to get swarmed by a bunch of bikes.
Most mornings that i came out to the truck from whichever motel I had stayed in, i found one or two people looking at my truck and they always had lots of questions. The fact that the truck is a diesel seemed to baffle quite a few, as was the 1982 year of manufacture. I received a lot of very positive comments, and that was nice. Jeez, i'm almost famous (in my own mind anyhow).
I only say two other cruisers during the entire drive - a 60 series in Butte Montana (I honked at the driver as I went by and he returned only a blank stare), and an 80 series that passed me a couple of times. In fact, all in all, I saw virtually no interesting vehicles on the entire trip. I thought the US was the center of the automotive universe - where have all the cool rides gone? I don't think i saw one vehicle made before 1985. weird, huh?
The condition of the interstates in some locations was also a bit of a shock to me - in a word- terrible! It would appear that not much money has been spent on keeping the roads in good condition over the past few years - I guess there are other priorities down here for taxpayer money. It looks like that is changing in some places though, as I-90 had some l-o-n-g stretches of single lane and the roads were all dug up. I was glad at times to have the heavy suspension and good tires as I drove along.
The availability of diesel off the big interstates was not so good, and this forced me to spend more time on the interstates than I would have liked. It would appear the diesel=semi-trailer down here. The diesel pumps had the large nozzles on the end in most stations - luckily I was able to just push the nozzle down the filler neck. I was surpised that diesel is not so readily available in the US as it is in Canada. I guess a jerry can will be in order so that i can do a bit more exploring on future drives off the major routes.
I didn't take many pictures, but I will post up what I have once i get me home computer set up again.
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Welcome to MA!! Where in MA are you? We have the Yankee Toys Fall Gathering in early October, love to see you up there!
If you have any title problems, call me. I know a guy who knows a guy......
If you have any title problems, call me. I know a guy who knows a guy......
Glad you made it, hell of a trip in a 4X series cruiser. Last long trip I took in my 40 I used earplugs, it was much more pleasant that way.
Roads in the US are as varied as the state you are in. You went through a few good states as far as roads go. You should see the difference between Colorado and Wyoming, like night and day. South Dakota roads are pretty good as I recall. The interstates really get hammered, and probably have lacked in money.
I am also surprised you had such a hard time finding diesel. I guess I have never looked for it, always drove gasoline vehicles. However, around here, we have it all over. Lots of domestic diesel pickups here and the facilities for them. Only a few pumps that I know of here in town that are the larger semi truck nozzles, rest are small for pickups. Guess I will look more when I travel, seems most convinence stores have a gas pump and a diesel, especially now, not so much about ten years ago.
On your leaky seals, were they new old stock stuff. I've had trouble with old new rubber parts, seems they are too old and hard sometimes. Sometimes it is better to source a new aftermarket seal, with fresh new rubber. Rear oil seal can be easily damaged, at least on an F engine. Leak on front of tranny could be figure 8 gasket on front of unit.
Leak on rear of transfer may be bad bearing preload or something. Also the drum sealing surface is commonly grooved, can't recall if you replaced that or not. I had to Speedi Sleeve mine years ago.
And where is the leak on the rear, out the end, or the wheel seal area behind the hub. I'm having a hard time understanding that one.
Still glad you made it, have fun settling in.
Roads in the US are as varied as the state you are in. You went through a few good states as far as roads go. You should see the difference between Colorado and Wyoming, like night and day. South Dakota roads are pretty good as I recall. The interstates really get hammered, and probably have lacked in money.
I am also surprised you had such a hard time finding diesel. I guess I have never looked for it, always drove gasoline vehicles. However, around here, we have it all over. Lots of domestic diesel pickups here and the facilities for them. Only a few pumps that I know of here in town that are the larger semi truck nozzles, rest are small for pickups. Guess I will look more when I travel, seems most convinence stores have a gas pump and a diesel, especially now, not so much about ten years ago.
On your leaky seals, were they new old stock stuff. I've had trouble with old new rubber parts, seems they are too old and hard sometimes. Sometimes it is better to source a new aftermarket seal, with fresh new rubber. Rear oil seal can be easily damaged, at least on an F engine. Leak on front of tranny could be figure 8 gasket on front of unit.
Leak on rear of transfer may be bad bearing preload or something. Also the drum sealing surface is commonly grooved, can't recall if you replaced that or not. I had to Speedi Sleeve mine years ago.
And where is the leak on the rear, out the end, or the wheel seal area behind the hub. I'm having a hard time understanding that one.
Still glad you made it, have fun settling in.
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Thanks so much for the warm welcome. I should be able to attend that Fall gathering.
I'm located in W. Mass. in the bustling metropolis known as North Leverett.
I'm not expecting any problems with titling the truck, as I have the all-important stamps from the border people, and the truck is more than 25 years old, which simplifies the whole situation immensely.
If i do have hassles though, you can be sure I'll get in touch. Thanks for the offer.
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Hah- the truck is not so bad noise-wise. Now, the hearing pro would have been great for my trip through Sturgis, as all those hogs buzzing by were definitely starting to damage my hearing in the left ear. After a while I just drove along with my left hand fixed tightly over my left ear.
The parking brake drum is new, as is the seal and the ouput shaft, so i should have no need of a speedi sleeve. I'll check it out soon enough and see what I can find.
Today I pulled the interior out to get at the tranny cover plate and then to the wiring loom across the transmission. I was trying to get my tachometer working. I was apprehensive i might have obtained a factory tach for the FJ4# trucks, as they are wired differently than the BJ/HJ version. Fortunately, all was well, and the problem turned out to be a broken wire in the lead from the sender. Fixed that and now i have a tachometer that works!
A couple of minor electrical issue remain, namely the lamp over the heater control lever (wires got broken by accident during the harness install), and the interior lamp. I'm curious to see if I can adapt a 60 series interior lamp, as that would give me switchable light on demand, instead of the simpler door-switched type that is stock for 40 series. Hmm, I wonder if some sort of brighter led type of lamp might be the ticket...
The CCOT 10% thicker weatherstrip for my door franlkly sucks, so I might need to get some oem and be done with it. I like to close my doors without slamming. Also, i need to obtain the inner door track felts to get the rattles out. I didn't have the chance during the final hurried days of reassembly. The passenger window doesn't go down without some gymnastics, so that needs to be dealt with soon.
there's always something to work on when you have a cruiser i guess, reliable as they are.
73fj
Tho at sumbitch in ayer!
13-14 mpg ain't bad considering, as my wife puts it, " your basically driving something the shape of a kleenex box."
Very nice job putting that truck back together, enjoy it.
Very nice job putting that truck back together, enjoy it.
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Thanks 73FJ, I am really enjoying the truck so far.
As for the fuel economy, I sat down this morning and added up the diesel receipts. I was quite a bit out out with my estimate of 13~14 mpg. My calculator reveals that for the 3700 mile trip, I used around 211 gallons (about $1000 in fuel) and the fuel economy actually worked out to around 17.5 mpg. That's pretty decent, I would say.
My total costs to move myself across the continent, including the $1000 in fuel, was about $2500 altogether, which seems reasonable as these things go.
No doubt about it, the 40 series body is hardly what one would call 'aerodynamic'.
As for the fuel economy, I sat down this morning and added up the diesel receipts. I was quite a bit out out with my estimate of 13~14 mpg. My calculator reveals that for the 3700 mile trip, I used around 211 gallons (about $1000 in fuel) and the fuel economy actually worked out to around 17.5 mpg. That's pretty decent, I would say.
My total costs to move myself across the continent, including the $1000 in fuel, was about $2500 altogether, which seems reasonable as these things go.
No doubt about it, the 40 series body is hardly what one would call 'aerodynamic'.
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I thought it might be helpful for some folks to summarize the details of converting a 40 series from RHD to LHD (or vice versa for that matter), at least as I tackled it. There are various ways to do it- my goal was to end up with a result that was as stock as possible.
For starters of course, I cut off the old RHD firewall, dash and cowl, essentially the entire front of the cab, and welded in a LHD repalcement. From that start, here are the other changes required to complete the conversion:
-LHD pedal box and pedals
-LHD parking brake lever (RHD lever opening was plated and welded shut)
-changed out the parking brake cable (the length difference was about an inch)
-RHD steering pedestal was removed by cutting the rivets off
-LHD steering pedestal installed with grade 8 bolts (the chassis has provision for both side steering box pedestals)
-LHD steering box (mine's from a Bandeirante) installed
-RHD center arm removed and mounting plate cutt from chassis. Mounting plate then moved over to the left chassis rail and welded in. LHD center arm then installed.
-power steering fluid reservoir adapted to fit, with a homemeade mounting bracket, along with high and low pressure lines to/from vane pump and p/s gearbox
-RHD windshield frame removed and LHD frame installed
-LHD wiper motor and wiper arms installed. Wiper motor cover swaps over unchanged.
-VIN tag remounted with rivets on LHD firewall
-all brake lines needed replacement along firewall
-vacuum lines to vac reservior tank were reusable, with some modifications. I ended up keeping one vac hard line and rebending the end; the other line was adapted from a BJ42 donor.
-brake and clutch master may be moved over unaltered
-inner postion of RH fender was infilled with metal sheet and welded, to cover over the opening in the fender formally covering the RHD steering gearbox. For the LH side, I obtained an new LHD specific fender from Toyota
-relays for glow and starter will need relocating, and the wiring altered to suit. The stock position the relays are placed in is in the passenger footwell - I chose to locate them on the RH fender apron in my case, as it shortened the distance for the electrical leads to/from the battery and glow plugs.
-most diesel 40 series will have a glow controller mounted on the dash to the side of the combination meter - the wiring needs lengthening some 3' to accomodate this move.
-the seats...the 60 /40 bench arrangement is stock to 45/47 series. The bench seat can have it's left and right hand side rails switched, so as to have the lever for tilting the seat back in the correct place. This is not possible with the driver's seat, so a LHD=specific drivers seat had to be obtained. In my case, I chose to go with a pair of bucket seats, and obtained these from a 60 series rig. The mounting points in the floor to accomodate the swithc of seats will need attention. in my case, I pulled the sheet metal section covering the mounting points off the floor, relocated and exposed mounts as necessary, and replaced the sheet metal into the floor by re-welding it in.
-the blower fan for hte heater motor is completely backwards for LHD and RHD. The motor only can be re-used, needing only to have it's power leads reversed to have it rotate the correct direction. The housing and fan vane for the blower are LHD/RHD specific items. Wiring will need to be reconfigured to reflect the new blower location. If the side colws are kept from the original firewall section, then the inside of the cowl where the blower intake port locates need to be welded in. It is better to swap the side colws from the correct hand drive firewall along with htat firewall.
-the shifter cane may need swapping out or re-bending (I can't remember if I had to or not)
-the fuse panel is normally located in the driver's footwel; i swapped a 60 series one into place, fitting it on the LHD side. In the end the wiring harness becomes changed in so many ways it makes more sense to re-wire from scratch, as i did. for this porcess, it helps to have as many harness and electrical bits on hand as you can scrounge.
-the wirng from the sedimenter needs lengthening to the new warning light location.
I think that's about it, though if anything else comes to mind, I'll edit the above accordingly. The sway from RHD to LHD was, for me, not a simple or quick affair. It was surprising how much was involved, considering the simple nature of the vehicle.
For starters of course, I cut off the old RHD firewall, dash and cowl, essentially the entire front of the cab, and welded in a LHD repalcement. From that start, here are the other changes required to complete the conversion:
-LHD pedal box and pedals
-LHD parking brake lever (RHD lever opening was plated and welded shut)
-changed out the parking brake cable (the length difference was about an inch)
-RHD steering pedestal was removed by cutting the rivets off
-LHD steering pedestal installed with grade 8 bolts (the chassis has provision for both side steering box pedestals)
-LHD steering box (mine's from a Bandeirante) installed
-RHD center arm removed and mounting plate cutt from chassis. Mounting plate then moved over to the left chassis rail and welded in. LHD center arm then installed.
-power steering fluid reservoir adapted to fit, with a homemeade mounting bracket, along with high and low pressure lines to/from vane pump and p/s gearbox
-RHD windshield frame removed and LHD frame installed
-LHD wiper motor and wiper arms installed. Wiper motor cover swaps over unchanged.
-VIN tag remounted with rivets on LHD firewall
-all brake lines needed replacement along firewall
-vacuum lines to vac reservior tank were reusable, with some modifications. I ended up keeping one vac hard line and rebending the end; the other line was adapted from a BJ42 donor.
-brake and clutch master may be moved over unaltered
-inner postion of RH fender was infilled with metal sheet and welded, to cover over the opening in the fender formally covering the RHD steering gearbox. For the LH side, I obtained an new LHD specific fender from Toyota
-relays for glow and starter will need relocating, and the wiring altered to suit. The stock position the relays are placed in is in the passenger footwell - I chose to locate them on the RH fender apron in my case, as it shortened the distance for the electrical leads to/from the battery and glow plugs.
-most diesel 40 series will have a glow controller mounted on the dash to the side of the combination meter - the wiring needs lengthening some 3' to accomodate this move.
-the seats...the 60 /40 bench arrangement is stock to 45/47 series. The bench seat can have it's left and right hand side rails switched, so as to have the lever for tilting the seat back in the correct place. This is not possible with the driver's seat, so a LHD=specific drivers seat had to be obtained. In my case, I chose to go with a pair of bucket seats, and obtained these from a 60 series rig. The mounting points in the floor to accomodate the swithc of seats will need attention. in my case, I pulled the sheet metal section covering the mounting points off the floor, relocated and exposed mounts as necessary, and replaced the sheet metal into the floor by re-welding it in.
-the blower fan for hte heater motor is completely backwards for LHD and RHD. The motor only can be re-used, needing only to have it's power leads reversed to have it rotate the correct direction. The housing and fan vane for the blower are LHD/RHD specific items. Wiring will need to be reconfigured to reflect the new blower location. If the side colws are kept from the original firewall section, then the inside of the cowl where the blower intake port locates need to be welded in. It is better to swap the side colws from the correct hand drive firewall along with htat firewall.
-the shifter cane may need swapping out or re-bending (I can't remember if I had to or not)
-the fuse panel is normally located in the driver's footwel; i swapped a 60 series one into place, fitting it on the LHD side. In the end the wiring harness becomes changed in so many ways it makes more sense to re-wire from scratch, as i did. for this porcess, it helps to have as many harness and electrical bits on hand as you can scrounge.
-the wirng from the sedimenter needs lengthening to the new warning light location.
I think that's about it, though if anything else comes to mind, I'll edit the above accordingly. The sway from RHD to LHD was, for me, not a simple or quick affair. It was surprising how much was involved, considering the simple nature of the vehicle.
The dome light on my US-Spec 1983 FJ40 had three positions: on-off-door. This is the same for my 84 Aussie-spec Cruisers. Maybe that is an option for you.
As for the fuel economy, when I put 3:73 gears and a 5 speed in my troopie, my 2H fuel economy went up about 25% on the freeway.
I have really enjoyed watching your rebuild on Mud, and (while I am sure you would not agree) I must say that I am a bit sad it is done
.
I hope you will keep the photos coming as you do things to it in Mass. PLEASE keep it sprayed with fish oil, as it sure would be a shame for that beautiful machine to rust away to nothing living in Mass.
Cheers,
Josh
As for the fuel economy, when I put 3:73 gears and a 5 speed in my troopie, my 2H fuel economy went up about 25% on the freeway.
I have really enjoyed watching your rebuild on Mud, and (while I am sure you would not agree) I must say that I am a bit sad it is done
. I hope you will keep the photos coming as you do things to it in Mass. PLEASE keep it sprayed with fish oil, as it sure would be a shame for that beautiful machine to rust away to nothing living in Mass.
Cheers,
Josh
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What size tires were you running with that set up?
thanks for the info on the dome light - I wonder if that type of lamp applied to the 47 cab/chassis -are the 40 and 47 troopy interior lamps the same as the ones for my truck?
The dome lights are the same I believe.
I was running 245X75X16 Kumho mud and snow tyres at the time, but then I put on 33X10.50X15 BFG A/T tyres: both with white steel rims. However, my 2H was turbo charged at the time I put the gears and 5 speed in, and I don't know if that would have made a difference (in relation to the fuel economy increase of a N/A 2H). When I turbo charged it, I still had 4:11s with a 4 speed, and my highway fuel economy did not really increase much (about 5% increase), but city driving went up nearly 15%.
As an aside: where did your vent windows for the doors go?
Cheers,
Josh
I was running 245X75X16 Kumho mud and snow tyres at the time, but then I put on 33X10.50X15 BFG A/T tyres: both with white steel rims. However, my 2H was turbo charged at the time I put the gears and 5 speed in, and I don't know if that would have made a difference (in relation to the fuel economy increase of a N/A 2H). When I turbo charged it, I still had 4:11s with a 4 speed, and my highway fuel economy did not really increase much (about 5% increase), but city driving went up nearly 15%.
As an aside: where did your vent windows for the doors go?
Cheers,
Josh
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The truck came with two sets of doors - one pair with the vent windows and one pair without. I learned that the weatherstripping, door felt and other parts for the vent window type were, at that time at least, a bit hard to come by, so I made a choice to go with the one-piece glass type. I'm still undecided as to whether that was the best choice or not.
Other than the rubber for the actual vent itself, I've always used the factory window felt and sweepers for the non-vent window doors, and trimmed them to fit the vent window doors. I put vent windows into my US Spec 83 FJ40, and I used all US-spec felt, etc (again, except for the vent window seal itself). I will try to attach a photo of that, but I don't think I can post any more pictures as I don't have a star (not sure what that means exactly, but Fj73 said it, and I reckon he is right).
I have sent a few vent window assemblies to mates in the States,and they have all put them into older doors (75-80- with the pop-in window felt at the bottom, rather than the clip-in rubber sweeper of the 81-84 doors), using the factory felt, etc. It is certainly easier than converting a RHD to a LHD!
Are your present doors from a post-81 40 series? I believe that is when the doors got the little bump in the front which engages the pin switch for the door light.
Cheers,
Josh
I have sent a few vent window assemblies to mates in the States,and they have all put them into older doors (75-80- with the pop-in window felt at the bottom, rather than the clip-in rubber sweeper of the 81-84 doors), using the factory felt, etc. It is certainly easier than converting a RHD to a LHD!
Are your present doors from a post-81 40 series? I believe that is when the doors got the little bump in the front which engages the pin switch for the door light.
Cheers,
Josh
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2006
- Threads
- 158
- Messages
- 2,974
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- Greenfield, MA
- Website
- thecarpentryway.blogspot.com
- Thread starter
- #1,338
Well, I THOUGHT I had a set of 1982 doors, but like so many things on my truck, they turned out to be from other, earlier vehicles. I bought the correct weatherstrip for the doors, then found when I had finished all the work on the doors and went to put the them back together that the weatherstrip wouldn't fit (this is the earlier metal/felt units, not the later type with the rubber wiper strip. The earlier ones had little holes on the inside of the door window opening, using clips just like the weatherstrip between apron and cowl. The later type of weathersrip fits with stouter clips into rectangular holes on the door. These little details did not become obvious until later.
When my finances recover over the next few months, will be on the look out for a straight and rust free set of the later type of door. Maybe i will go for the non-USA type with vent windows, as i have found the kick vents to be a wonderful thing indeed, so more of the same would be great!
Could you take a picture of the bump-out on the door for the door swtich? I retrofitted the switch mount onto the door pillars and didn't realize that there was something on the inside of the door as well.
Thanks for all the information!
By the way, what sort of mirrors are you running there? They look a bit like a 60 series mirror.
When my finances recover over the next few months, will be on the look out for a straight and rust free set of the later type of door. Maybe i will go for the non-USA type with vent windows, as i have found the kick vents to be a wonderful thing indeed, so more of the same would be great!
Could you take a picture of the bump-out on the door for the door swtich? I retrofitted the switch mount onto the door pillars and didn't realize that there was something on the inside of the door as well.
Thanks for all the information!
By the way, what sort of mirrors are you running there? They look a bit like a 60 series mirror.
Good description of the old v new sweeper. What I have found is that the post-81 sweepers keep the windows a bit quieter, and they keep water from getting into the door itself (the vent windows also keep the window from rattling when it is not rolled all of the way up). You don't need to get non-us doors, though, as you will find that the US-spec doors have the holes in them to install vent windows.
All you need to do to put the vent windows in your doors is to shorten that metal and felt sweeper on the inside and outside (on the post-81 doors, the inside felt is the same; it is only the outter sweeper that is different).
I'm attaching a photo of the 'bump' for the pin switch, but I cannot guarantee that it will attach, as I don;t have a 'star'. I also have a set of 84 doors in my shed here in Australia, but shipping them would be too expensive.
The mirors, I'm a bit embarrased to say, are J**p Dangler mirrors. They fit really well, don't require holes to be drilled anywhere where they can be seen once the factory mirror is put back on, and they don't vibrate. I also have them on Patches (my troopie).
Cheers,
Josh
All you need to do to put the vent windows in your doors is to shorten that metal and felt sweeper on the inside and outside (on the post-81 doors, the inside felt is the same; it is only the outter sweeper that is different).
I'm attaching a photo of the 'bump' for the pin switch, but I cannot guarantee that it will attach, as I don;t have a 'star'. I also have a set of 84 doors in my shed here in Australia, but shipping them would be too expensive.
The mirors, I'm a bit embarrased to say, are J**p Dangler mirrors. They fit really well, don't require holes to be drilled anywhere where they can be seen once the factory mirror is put back on, and they don't vibrate. I also have them on Patches (my troopie).
Cheers,
Josh
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Great build. Really makes me think anything is possible, but at the same time makes me really hone the eye I use to check out prospective trucks. Don't really think I ever want to replace that much metal