HJ47 welcome here? (1 Viewer)

[Henry James the 47th]

Dan wrote,

"Have you been able to test any of it yet?"

Good question. I'm not in a hurry to do that; so far the only thing I have put power are the fog lamps, and it was a bit exciting to see them come on!

By next weekend, I should have enough hooked up that I can check the lights all around, as well as the windshield wiper and washer.

I am waiting on new starter and glow relays from Japan - until those are wired in I can't try and see if the engine will turn over (which of course means I won't be able to activate most of the engine-related gauges). The closest match for relays, given my hybrid 47/60 series wiring set up, are mid-1980's BJ/HJ60 12v. relays, and that's what I've ordered. This will mean that my new 'glow controller' unit is superfluous and I'll be selling it. I will use the ignition key in the '80~'81 60 series ignition I have as a momentary switch and run a full manual system for the glow circuit. I will probably install some sort of light on the dash to indicate when the glow circuit is activated.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

No pictures today.

I imagine that some might find that a welcome break from the monotony of pictures of my wiring, and talk about wiring instead.

I discovered a few problems/incorrect hook-ups with the wiring today, and had a few things to correct. One little step back and then onwards.

Now I'm in the process of wiring up the "Brake-Filter" warning light pair, and connected the horns up this evening too.

I have been puzzling a lot lately over how to hook the low oil pressure switch up to my wiring. I want the absolutely simplest system, and I've been keen to keep the auto trans. specific injector pump on my 2H diesel. This pump is controlled pneumatically, and there is a vsv connected to a vacuum line coming from the alternator to control the air intake plenum. This is how the motor is turned on an off. With power to it, the valve is in the closed position. The vacuum therefore can't reach the actuator at the plenum and close it when the vsv blocks the passage. When power is cut from the vsv, it opens and allows the vacuum from the pump to reach the actuator, which shuts the plenum. Then, after the engine is shut down, the actuator arm slowly returns back to its original position (since the engine is shut down the alternator isn't turning and cranking the pump piggy-backed on it, and the vacuum is off), ready for the next start with the plenum open to air flow. That's how I understand it anyway.

The key thing with respect to the wiring of the low oil pressure switch is that it grounds out the connection wire when there is insufficient oil pressure, such as might occur during the first 30~60 seconds of warm up from cold, or from some more serious damage causing a loss of oil.

The vsv in my current set up however would need to have its power cut so as to shut down the engine. In EDIC-equipped trucks the Fuel Control Relay is what handles the wire to the low oil pressure switch. I would use that relay or my situation, but for the way it operates: by sending power to the EDIC motor and causing it to move the rod and shut the injector pump off. Instead of sending power to something I needed to cut it.

I figured there needs to be some delay built in to a control relay of some sort to allow that oil pressure to build-up in the engine for a set period and then . I was looking for a control box that would accept the signal from the oil pressure switch and feature that delay. I though I might have to find an electronics person make something for me, but then I found the exact thing I was looking for with a google:

ENGINE WATCHDOG TM2, Engine Coolant Temperature Alarm, Gauge & Sensor

The Engine Watchdog TM3 is precisely what I need! As an added bonus it increases the safety and security of the truck.

This was the last unsolved electrical mystery and source of some apprehension on my rebuild, and wondering whether I could keep the set up I have on the engine now, and have the ultimate simple system for starting and stopping the engine. It's looking like a strong contender at this point. I'm feeling a glimmer of that 'light at the end of the tunnel' feeling, if you know what i mean.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

I have been puzzling a lot lately over how to hook the low oil pressure switch up to my wiring. I want the absolutely simplest system, and I've been keen to keep the auto trans. specific injector pump on my 2H diesel. This pump is controlled pneumatically, and there is a vsv connected to a vacuum line coming from the alternator to control the air intake plenum. This is how the motor is turned on an off. With power to it, the valve is in the closed position. The vacuum therefore can't reach the actuator at the plenum and close it when the vsv blocks the passage. When power is cut from the vsv, it opens and allows the vacuum from the pump to reach the actuator, which shuts the plenum. Then, after the engine is shut down, the actuator arm slowly returns back to its original position (since the engine is shut down the alternator isn't turning and cranking the pump piggy-backed on it, and the vacuum is off), ready for the next start with the plenum open to air flow. That's how I understand it anyway.

The key thing with respect to the wiring of the low oil pressure switch is that it grounds out the connection wire when there is insufficient oil pressure, such as might occur during the first 30~60 seconds of warm up from cold, or from some more serious damage causing a loss of oil.

The vsv in my current set up however would need to have its power cut so as to shut down the engine. In EDIC-equipped trucks the Fuel Control Relay is what handles the wire to the low oil pressure switch. I would use that relay or my situation, but for the way it operates: by sending power to the EDIC motor and causing it to move the rod and shut the injector pump off. Instead of sending power to something I needed to cut it.

I figured there needs to be some delay built in to a control relay of some sort to allow that oil pressure to build-up in the engine for a set period and then . I was looking for a control box that would accept the signal from the oil pressure switch and feature that delay. I though I might have to find an electronics person make something for me, but then I found the exact thing I was looking for with a google:

ENGINE WATCHDOG TM2, Engine Coolant Temperature Alarm, Gauge & Sensor

The Engine Watchdog TM3 is precisely what I need! As an added bonus it increases the safety and security of the truck.

This was the last unsolved electrical mystery and source of some apprehension on my rebuild, and wondering whether I could keep the set up I have on the engine now, and have the ultimate simple system for starting and stopping the engine. It's looking like a strong contender at this point. I'm feeling a glimmer of that 'light at the end of the tunnel' feeling, if you know what i mean.[/QUOTE]


To late to reply tonight, but if your around the shop later tomorrow after work we go over some of the installs I have completed using a home made low oil pressure shut down system. You can buy all the parts off the shelf, Flesh Electric in Nanaimo,, those guys are genius when it comes to electrical stuff.

Rob

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Alright, see you tomorrow Rob. Thanks for the insight.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Sorry I missed ya, will come by one day next week and see your project.


Rob

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Still wiring...

Here's some recent progress and new acquisitions.

The fog lamp switch is from Mot -$49 and includes mounting bracket. I am think about whether I wan to mount it with the bracket, or directly in the dash in the spot where the light switch is supposed to go. Unfortunately the barrel of the fog lamp switch is a different pattern and smaller size than the main light switch, so to put it in I would have to do a little more welding on the dash.

I had a day recently where it was warm enough to paint, so I completed the fuel tank straps, and got the rest of the steering parts into primer and paint. The pintle, now stripped apart, has been media blasted and is now painted.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

lotsa pics


Media blasted the fuel tank at last. The undercoating on the bottom of the tank resisted coming off, so I left it there, and lightly scoured it with the blaster to clean it.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

The pintle latch piece, and a couple of other new bits arrived: the OEM drag link and clamps, along with the Tuffy box. The front mounting of the Tuffy box doesn't make much sense, as a 'L' bracket seems to be needed to fix it down at the front.

I'll post up some pics when i take the Tuffy box down to the truck to see how it fits.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

The SOR kit for rebuilding the transfer case. I'm looking forward to tackling that soon.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

A few more coats of primer on the fuel tank

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I ordered a 16" wheel rim from my local Toyota dealer (obtaining the part number from the wheel from ENS Industrial in Sask.)- this gorgeous unit only costs $70!! I had another Toyo M55 put on it and it's looking sharp!

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Also received the OME front steering damper. Unlike the front and rear shocks, the damper comes with the hardware and mounting pins to install it. I put it in, and I'm not totally sure if I have it on the right way - it seems to me the cover tube should be topmost though.

Good thing the winch blocks most of the view of the ghastly yellow monster.

In case you're wondering, the winch fairlead will be painted all black when it's done

 

[Henry James the 47th]

The sway bar links are back in at last.

The wiring has progressed quite a lot, believe it or not. I'm hoping to have it pretty much complete by the end of this coming weekend.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

It's looks worse than it is - nahh, kidding really, it's a total nightmare

The sub-harness in the first two pics contains 4 wires; two red-white for the parking brake switch and the vacuum reservoir warning switch, a white-black ground wire, and the wire to the fuel tank sender. I need to add the stereo wires yet as the cd player unit will mount in the front section of the Tuffy box. I'm not sure where the speakers will go, but I won't be cutting any holes in the door panels if I can help it. Any suggestions? What about an overhead console? Down by the kick vents? Up in the back corners of the cab above the curved windows?

 

[Henry James the 47th]

In tracing one wire back to the headlight, I discovered under the electrical tape some crummy un-soldered connections from a PO repair, something I hadn't noticed whn I first connected it into the harness. Good thing I found it early. The last pic shows the re-done left headlamp plug. Pulling the metal terminals out of the plastic terminal block requires a different terminal tool than I own, but I was able to get them out undamaged using the tool I did have. i then swapped out the terminal block for a cleaner looking one.

 

[merbesfield]

IThe last pic shows the re-done left headlamp plug. Pulling the metal terminals out of the plastic terminal block requires a different terminal tool than I own, but I was able to get them out undamaged using the tool I did have. i then swapped out the terminal block for a cleaner looking one.

What was the trick to pulling out the terminals? Are you using the 16" wheel on all four corners or is that just the spare? Would that fit a 45LV? Wonder how that would look? Maybe I could photochop it?

 

[Henry James the 47th]

The tool that would work perfectly for taking the terminals out of the headlamp plugs resembles the pitchfork-shaped one in the picture below. I have a skinny screwdriver-shaped tool (like in the bottom left of the picture below) instead, and to pull the wire, I apply tension to it and pry, coming in with the tool along the wire side of the plastic plug, alternately working the tool to the left and right inside corners of the plug against the catches. It's a matter of tripping one catch, pulling the shoulder of the metal connector end past, and then tripping the opposite side catch. It takes a little practice. I would prefer to have the right tool if I could.

I bought the 16" rim as my spare, but I am thinking seriously of getting four more and switching the tires over since they're so nice. Stout too!

I want to check them out on the hubs to see if they clear the calipers more than the current set up with the 1/4" spacers.

These wheels will fit many LandCruisers, including the 45LV.

 

[merbesfield]

Kind of spaced out, but my LV actually has 1978 axels with disc front and rear, which is why I now need new wheels. The stock wheels were for the drum brakes and will not fit. Seems like you could make a tool like that pretty quick?

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I could make a tool like that pretty quick if i was handy with heat treatment techniques on spring steel.

I find that long jeweler's screwdrivers also work pretty well, though the tool i am using is an item i picked up at the local Napa.

Got a fair bit done today. First off, picked up the radiator from the local shop and this time the lower neck clears the p/s vane pump pulley perfectly.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Then I took on the fog light switch mounting, realizing that the little bracket that came with the switch made the perfect donor for patch-in. The light switch hole has a backing plate spot welded on the backside, while the metal in the bracket is quite thick, so they fit well together.