This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
here's some more. in picture three I am starting to feed the new switch wires in towards the terminal block
Conveniently, the new switch comes with a couple of replacement cable ties for the pair that need to be snipped to get the old one out.
The new switch gets put into position, all wires now connected back up.
next set -install complete. Bottom pic shows new switch compared to old.
The guts of the old switch didn't look too healthy, and i feel good about the decision to replace the switch. The wiper motor has been shipped and i should see that in a week or so.
I also got four of those 18mm allen head plugs that SOR sells as drain plugs. They have a little magnet at the bottom.
I installed two into my differential housings, and two into the intake manifold
...
to replace the ugly rusting bolt heads that were there, in turn replacements for the glow plug current sensor and other gizmo from the yanked-out Superglow system. The new ones look much better in there, that's for certain!
I took the hinge pin out of one of the window frame hinges, and it was badly rusted.
Third picture shows the cab with most of the electrical stuff gone.
And finally, here's the wiring harness, all pulled out and in need of a final wrap.
And a couple of minor wiring bugs are yet to be solved: the wiper, and the light dimming rheostat, so I'm planning to try and solve them with the harness out of the truck. it will be a simple matter to hook it up to a battery if need be.
Little trick I learned when restoring, you can use a very soft bristle brush wish a gun wash in a cup. You dip the brush and drag it smoothly across the freshly applied seam sealer and it flattens out super smooth, might be a little late for that tip.
I did that sort of thing with the seam sealer I put along the inner lip of the doors. I have also read about using a couple of strips of masking tape on either side of a seam, then putting the sealer down, wiping it with your finger, and then pulling the tape off to leave a clean line.
I was trying to duplicate the factory bead of sealer, which is put on in a smooth pass and left as a rounded bead, not wiped in down and flat - not that there is anything wrong with that mind you.
Here's some update pictures:
another three. The swallows are back in force and nesting in the building, so i have to contend with little caustic poops raining down on the panels here and there
then i got my new set of re-built injectors (from KrazyCritters on EBay Oz) out and put them in. Here are the steps involved:
i only loosened the nuts at the injector end, as the nuts on the pump end seems frozen to the injector pipes and i didn't want to find out the hard way, if you know what i mean.
After the pipes were out of the way sufficiently, i used a pair of wrenches to remove the nuts which hold the distribution pipe. another piece of pipe which i knew to be costly to replace if damaged, so I handled it most gingerly.
then it was time to pull the injector body. These are a 26mm size if I'm not mistaken. I used the closest thing i had on hand, a 1-1/16" spanner.
three more. out with the old injector and two sealing washers (the lower of the two must be put in with the correct orientation up-down), and in with the new.
and then they were all in
and finishing up by putting the lines back on, with the nuts left a bit loose for now. The system need to be bled before start-up.
Bottom two pictures shows my solution for sealing the holes in the cab floor for the pto gearbox lever. The grommet is from a BJ40 firewall.