Builds His and Her GX 460 Builds (3 Viewers)

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Fenders and mud flaps.

The Kaymar bumper does not line up exactly with the fender line, so I had to do some trimming. But I also wanted to be able to reattach at least part of the factory mud flaps back on the factory locations, which share mounting points with the bumper cover inside the fender well. So I had to get a little creative. I trimmed the factory bumper cover to follow the line of the Kaymar, but then had to transition in toward the wheel pretty quickly. As you will see below, this results in a little bit of a gap between the factory fender and the Kaymar/bumper cover in one location, but I think it still looks better than if I had not trimmed.

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I trimmed the mud flaps as shown below.
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I then used the factory locations that were still usable to reattach the mud flaps. On the lower portion of the mud flap, there is a hole that lines up relatively closely to a capture location on the Kaymar bumper. It did not line up well enough for a bolt, but I was able to get a zip tie through it to secure it. Below shows before I pulled the zip tie tight.
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So overall, not the absolute cleanest possible install, but the ability to use factory mud flaps and secure them at factory locations drove the decisions.
 
Some additional views and comments.

Below is the spindle location in comparison to the factory bumper cover and light. As you can see, not much room. The more I think about possible options, the more likely I am going to swap out the bumper cover for a 2010-2013 version. This is going to be a pain, because I will also have to sell my factory reverse lights and buy ones that go with the older design cover as well. But I think it is the only way I will be able to get the swing arms onto the spindles. There might be enough clearance that if I trim off the lip below the reflectors I can squeak by, but I will have to do some test fits first to find out. I will try cutting this bumper cover first to clear the swing arms before buying a new one, but I feel it is not likely that will be my permanent solution.

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Below is an attempt at an apples-to-apples comparison between the MetalTech and Kaymar bumper appearance.
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I unfortunately can't find any clean rearward-facing shots of the MetalTech, but below shows the Kamar.
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And here are a few shots showing the trim of the bumper cover in comparison to the diamond plate. Note that the top plastic trim cover is not trimmed, but rather is overlapped by the diamond plate.
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Did you happen to take MetalTech vs. Kaymar departure angle measurements at all? Or simply height above ground differences at a couple locations at the rear? Thank you for sharing all your experiences with us.
 
Did you happen to take MetalTech vs. Kaymar departure angle measurements at all? Or simply height above ground differences at a couple locations at the rear? Thank you for sharing all your experiences with us.
I did not take any measurements. But let me show you some photos to give you an idea about the differences between them. I think it is close to a wash. The MT bumper sticks out further to the rear than the Kaymar, but if you use the MT high tuck hitch or don't use a hitch then the MT does not hang down as far underneath as the Kaymar due to the Kaymar hitch structure as shown below. But both differences are small enough that the departure angle is likely pretty close between them.

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As you can see above the hitch sits below the bumper, and the integrated receiver frame extends out to the frame mount locations. In comparison, the MT bumper does not have this structure and the optional MT hitch mounts to the rear bumper where you see the gold plate mounted above for the Kaymar. What you can really see is the difference in size/weight between them. The MT is significantly heavier than the Kaymar. But the MT also has angled sides, allowing for some extra departure directly behind the wheels on the outsides that can provide extra clearance when going over large obstacles such as rocks on just one side of the vehicle.
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Below is a view from MT's website showing the rear design, which you can compare with my photo above of the Kaymar (realize that the photo above is from a higher angle, so the clearance looks lower). Notice that the hitch mounting location is the same location that the gold plate is mounted for the Kaymar, with the Kaymar rear surface sitting very close to that plate. The hitch added to the MT bumper in the photo is close to flush with the rear end of the MT bumper, showing how far back it ends.

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So, without measuring, I am guessing the vertical difference between them is about 1" (with Kaymar lower), and the MT sticks out to the rear about 1.5" farther than the Kaymar. I realize that the vertical likely affects departure angle more than horizontal, but they are still likely pretty similar, and both are significantly better options than the stock bumper cover.
 
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I have the MT rear bumper with spare, jerry can and jack (just like in your picture). In consideration of the extra length of the bumper, which gives about a foot long "tailgate" when the swing-out spare is open and the rear door is open. My wife and I really like this since it gives some room to sit, prepare things, set stuff on when trying to load the rear, standing on for roof rack access, etc. It's a great compromise of not having a proper tailgate. I put some rubberized track tape on it to give a little traction when standing on when accessing the roof rack on account that the bare painted metal is really slick if it gets wet and you try to stand on it.
 
I have the MT rear bumper with spare, jerry can and jack (just like in your picture). In consideration of the extra length of the bumper, which gives about a foot long "tailgate" when the swing-out spare is open and the rear door is open. My wife and I really like this since it gives some room to sit, prepare things, set stuff on when trying to load the rear, standing on for roof rack access, etc. It's a great compromise of not having a proper tailgate. I put some rubberized track tape on it to give a little traction when standing on when accessing the roof rack on account that the bare painted metal is really slick if it gets wet and you try to stand on it.
That is a good point regarding the comparison. Because it sticks out more, and because it has a single flat metal surface above the bumper that extends to the door opening, the MetalTech bumper does have a better sit/step area than does the Kaymar. As shown earlier in this thread, I also put adhesive-backed rubber in the top surface of the MetalTech for better comfort and grip, which made a big difference. I didn't use it as much for sitting, but it did provide a good step for reaching the roof rack.
 
A few people have asked me for photos of the BD LP9 lights at night. Below are some photos I tool comparing headlights to the LP9s. I was in a rush and using auto settings on my phone, so it isn't a perfect comparison. But hopefully it gives you an idea.

Below are headlights only, then with LP9 low/driving mode, then LP9 spot mode.
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The auto exposure and speed settings don't do these comparisons justice, especially in low light areas. I will try to take more in the near future with fixed camera settings for a true apples to apples comparison.
 
I haven't had a chance to try and fit the swing arms yet on the Kaymar, but that will be next on my list. I wanted to make a few comments about my tablet mount. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out the best way to mount a tablet that would provide the most usability with durability.

I ended up choosing a 9.7" Samsung Galaxy Tab S3 (their most recent tablet at the time), in combination with a Ram Mount windshield mount. The Ram order details are below.
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I like this combination because the X-Grip tether makes sure the tablet stays secure no matter how much movement occurs. The holder expands open and closed to fit different lengths of tablets, and although it is spring-loaded the X-Grip adds an additional safety factor. Because the USB-C port on the tablet did not line up exactly with the existing openings I had to cut out the holder just a little to allow for charging, as shown below.

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I mounted the tablet on the windscreen so that the tablet rested on the dash, then placed a rag between the dash and the tablet to prevent rubbing. You can see it in the photos below. (Yes the screen is cracked - that happened when I took the tablet completely out of the case and allowed my 3 year old to play with it - if it had still been in the Ram case it would have been just fine)

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We have used this setup in a number of off-road situations, including higher speed corrugated roads, and the mount setup held without problem.

We have used Gaia GPS for off-road mapping and guidance. It is a great system with a huge range of maps and useful features. We can run it live using our mobile hotspot, but if we are going truly off-road then we will download the maps of where we will be ahead of time so we do not have to rely on spotty mobile coverage. A great software value for the money.

The only complaint I have is that Gaia relies completely on the internal compass for the tablet in showing direction. The digital compass functionality is based on a flat/horizonal orientation of the tablet. This means that when the tablet is in a horizontal orientation, the directional arrow on Gaia GPS is constantly spinning around. Google Maps resolves this issue by orienting the arrow in the direction of travel using a running average of GPS travel, but Gaia does not have this feature. I attempted to use an external GPS sensor that had its own compass, but that did not resolve the issue. That means that unless I oriented the tablet horizontally (or at least substantially so), I had to keep the map in North orientation only. A minor annoyance, but significant enough that I felt it worth a mention.

If any of you have found a way around the Gaia GPS compass issue for vertical tablet orientation I would love to hear it.
 
With all due respect, that's a big chunk of windshield you're losing with it sitting up there.
Or is it the perspective of the photo?

Also, what did you do about your AFS after lifting and adding larger tires? Mine just blinks...
 
With all due respect, that's a big chunk of windshield you're losing with it sitting up there.
Or is it the perspective of the photo?

Also, what did you do about your AFS after lifting and adding larger tires? Mine just blinks...
It doesn't take up as much visible space as you would think, especially given the angle in comparison to the driver's eyes. Most of what is behind the screen visually is dash and hood. At the same time, I only put it up when in use off-road; I don't use it for daily driving.

I haven't had any problem with my AFS. The adaptive headlights actually still work like normal and no warning light, which frankly surprised me a little. But I can still see them moving vertically when starting the car and horizontally when turning.
 
When I start the engine after dark, I too see the head lights do their little dance (up, down and all around) before they settle into their normal position. When I added my 3000 watt inverter in the back I ran 1/0 AWG wire under the chassis along the rock sliders. While under the rear, I looked at the AFS and the guys who did my suspension disconnected and tossed the connecting linkage to the AFS from my axle. I fiddled with it a little but I think if I can get a small turn-buckle to connect the axle to the AFS sensor I may be able to get it to work.

We'll see. Thanks for your input on that topic TX GX460!
 
TRAIL PORN!!!! :clap:
I like it!
 
How's the old saying go... "Here's mud in yar eye!"
 
Good news - the Kaymar swing arms fit on the 2014+ GX with only minor additional trimming. The stars finally aligned today between weather, family and work and I was able to get the swing arms mounted. They both fit well without interference with the door, both when open and closed.
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A few tips and tricks. The main issue with interference is the flare below the factory reverse light/reflector housing. I cut off about 2.5 inches from the corner, but this turned out to be overkill. An inch would have worked just as well. Notice that I extended the cut line towards the center.
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Next tip: gas springs. These things are beasts. And at full extension they extend past the hole location for the swing arm at full open rotation. So to install the gas spring you must do the install BEFORE fully installing the swing arm. The easiest thing I found was to first connect the gas spring on the bumper side. Then install the bottom bearings only (making sure to clean and grease properly), then partially lower the swing arm onto the spindle until the gas spring bolt post lined up with the mounting hole on the arm. Tighten down the gas spring on the swing arm side (making sure that you are not so tight that the gas spring lock tab can't rotate in place). Then lower the swing arm the rest of the way onto the spindle, install the upper bearings, and finish with the washer, nut, cotter pin and cap (greasing properly at each step).
 

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