Builds His and Her GX 460 Builds (2 Viewers)

[TX GX460]

Sorry to go way back in your build, but did you ever find a suitable replacement for the bottle cap securing the ARB coupling to the Powertray? I have a metal washer on mine now, but it appears to be too thick and isn't getting enough engagement from the coupling threads, which is causing a leak. I've been trying to find a way to secure the coupling to the tray, while still getting good threading to the extension hose.

Yes but it sounds like a very similar approach to yours, although I haven't had any leak issues.

 

[BMRisko]

Thanks for the quick reply. Hmm, looks to be about the same thickness as my washer and in theory a couple threads engaged should be enough. I'll try a few extra wraps of teflon tape to see if that solves it.

 

[LTSR]

I just used a thinner washer on both sides.

 

[BMRisko]

Thanks, looks like I'm on the right track. Probably just a thread taping issue...

 

[BMRisko]

A thinner fender washer combined with the thicker natural gas Teflon tape did the trick.

Ltsr, you must have a different coupling because a 3/8 washer was too small of an id to fit over the coupling threads.

 

[WickedPickle]

Wanted to share a nice hack that HitchCrack suggested to me a few weeks ago while we were installing his rear drawers. I have Waian steel gas cans on my rear bumper, and although they are darn near indestructible, filling up the tank without spillage has been problematic. Plus, the MetalTech rear bumper fuel carrier is poorly designed, making it very difficult to put in a full can of gas without a second person helping. HitchCrack suggested a battery operated fuel transfer pump that has a hose long enough to use in-place without removing the cans from the rear bumper. I purchased the following pump from Amazon and it has worked great for me. Amazon.com: Second Gen TERAPUMP TRFA01 - No More Gas Can Lifting/Fuel Transfer Pump Fitting numerous Gas Cans (Advanced Auto-Stop Funtion and Flexible in and Out Take Hose): Automotive. Fast transfer time and pretty good about almost emptying the cans. The only complaint I have is that it does not have an adapter for the Wavian spout, and the pump leaks from the bottom. This isn't a problem if your adapter screws into the fuel tank spout, but that isn't an option with the NATO-style spout. So I just needed to hold the pump at an angle so that the drips went back down into the tank spout and everything was good. A very worthwhile expenditure if you are running spare fuel on your rear bumper.
View attachment 1844659

I know this is an old post but I'm reading through your build (very impressive) and wanted to know if you can add house length to the filler side? My can's are on the passenger side so I need about two additional feet of hose to make it work.

 

[TX GX460]

It's possible but probably not easy. The fill side uses an accordianized hoze that appears to have an enlarged opening at the pump location. There is a wire pair running the length of the fill tube (auto shut-off maybe?).

So you can probably find a replacement hose (dishwasher or respirator hose maybe) and try to replace the entire length with something longer, or try to splice in the straight section shown below. Either way, you will need to create waterproof extensions for the wiring as well. You will also need to make sure your approach seals properly to prevent gas leaks.

So it isn't impossible, but probably not the easiest of hacks.

 

[TX GX460]

Try McMaster-Carr: McMaster-Carr for your rubber pad. May I suggest neoprene (aka: wetsuit material) it's thick, weather resistant and can be had in thickness's up to 1 inch!
I have the plastic Scepter cans on the back of my MetalTech bumper. The securing strap that comes over the top of the cans to hold them in adds compression so there is no rattling around back there.

I admit I'm a little envious that you can open your rear window without swinging open the carrier. And yes, my two cans mounted perpendicular to the bumper do make the rear hangover a little long.
BUT... the MetalTech design allows for my HiLIft to be stowed below the bumpers and cans. I do like that!
With all due respect, where are you going to put your jack? Or is there a mount on the Kaymar bumper I don't see.

Also, what does your backup camera look like??
I still need to get around to re-mounting my camera so I have a clear view behind me.
Right now it's only a peek-a-boo view. Good enough for backing up against something large like a wall or another vehicle, but I won't see someone walking behind me or anything out toward the rear corners and I still need to trust my parking assist.

R2m, to answer one of your questions above, below is a photo I took this morning of my current rear camera view with tire but no jerry cans.

 

[r2m]

So I guess at least the 2015's have backup camera lines? My 2013 doesn't and wish it did for a distance reference when backing up.

 

[TX GX460]

So I guess at least the 2015's have backup camera lines? My 2013 doesn't and wish it did for a distance reference when backing up.

Yes, our 2015 Premium has the lines, as did our 2017 Luxury.

 

[r2m]

I wonder if it's in the camera or software behind the dash?
Wonder if I could just replace the camera. Hummm.

 

[TX GX460]

I wonder if it's in the camera or software behind the dash?
Wonder if I could just replace the camera. Hummm.

Software. A camera replacement won't do it.

 

[TX GX460]

My GX is in the shop this week having a few welding tasks done (I haven't tried to weld anything since college and was bad at it back then). I will update fully once they are complete.

First up was the panhard bar correction bracket (available here for the 5th Gen T4R / GX 460: PCK (Panhard Correction Kits)). This solves two issues with a raised suspension. First it corrects the geometry at lift so that the bar is in a neutral position when at rest (which also prevents the bar from laterally pulling the axle). Second it gets the panhard bar put of the way of the KDSS piston. You can see on the second photo below where the two were rubbing. That shouldn't be a problem now. I used the opportunity to go to heavier Dobinsons springs from Treaty Oak Offroad. Hopefully they will put me back up a lt a 2" lift. The prior springs just weren't quite sufficient for my heavy rig.

 

[r2m]

Did you cut off the stock mount and replace it with this?
Couldn't a different pan hard rod (I assume slightly longer rod) do the same thing with a lifted suspension?

 

[TX GX460]

Did you cut off the stock mount and replace it with this?
Couldn't a different pan hard rod (I assume slightly longer rod) do the same thing with a lifted suspension?

No, it is cut to weld directly to the stock mount and extend it. The website above shows some good photos of how it attaches, and there are some more photos here: vBulletin3 Forum

There are several adjustable panhard bars available, but those still do not change the geometry/angle issue. In stock form, the bar is horizontal. As your rear axle articulates, the bar angle changes, pulling (or pushing) the axle laterally as the horizontal distance changes. The amount of horizontal movement that is caused by a given amount of vertical articulation increases exponentially the further you are from horizontal. Therefore, with an adjustable bar, you may be able to zero out the pull at the rest angle, but because you are already at an angle the amount of lateral axle movement for the amount of articulation, especially with down travel, is significantly greater than if it had started from horizontal. As it articulates and moves your axle laterally, it can change your roll center. Probably not an issue for most people, but I like to do things the best way possible. This is the best solution for providing a lifted vehicle maximum articulation with the lowest effect on performance or ride quality.

 

[BMRisko]

Did you cut off the stock mount and replace it with this?
Couldn't a different pan hard rod (I assume slightly longer rod) do the same thing with a lifted suspension?

Yes, an adjustable trackbar will also do the same thing (if your goal is to just center the axle at ride height), but if you don't plan on changing the height around much anymore, the bracket with the different hole will work just the same and be cheaper to center the axle.

 

[BMRisko]

Thanks for linking that bracket...I wasn't aware that was available, but it is bookmarked now.

 

[TX GX460]

While Baertrax had the welder out (and also since I was having alignment issues), I also asked them to weld on cam tab gussets from Total Chaos. The stock cam tabs used for alignment are weak and can bend easily, especially when wheeling. The TC gussets weld on in place of the stock ones and provide significantly greater strength and support. Below is a photo of the TC gussets welded in place.

To give you an idea of the difference in strength, below is a photo of the stock tabs on a 4Runner:

The gussets can be purchased here: TOTAL CHAOS FABRICATION, or from various vendors.

 

[TX GX460]

The tech at Baertrax was not impressed with my functional but low cost bracket for my SwitchPro panel (Builds - His and Her GX 460 Builds), so he made me a new one with some stock in the shop. He did a great job, and now the panel is much more secure. I may cut off the excess material at some point, but am happy with how it is for now. As a bonus, I don't have to brace my fingers behind the panel now when pushing buttons, and it doesn't shake over bumps.

 

[r2m]

Below is how I mounted my switches. Just another option, for what's it's worth. It's just attached with adhesive backed black Velcro and the wiring comes up through my steering column.
This Pic is panned out for general location.

Here's a closer look:

And yes all the buttons are operational as identified. The exception is that the "Off Road" button is for my Right Proximity rack lights and the "Roof" button is for the Left Proximity lights. They didn't have decals for Left and Right proximity lights.

It is a little obscured when driving but I know where all the buttons are and I can switch them on and off with just feeling where they are.