Builds His and Her GX 460 Builds (3 Viewers)

[TX GX460]

Thanks for your leadership in posting up on the Kaymar install. As North American agent/distributor for Kaymar, we are open for business and shipping bars and carriers monthly. As a GX 460 owner, I am excited about the bar and the future LRA tank. It is likely that we will go with a smaller tank than the 33 gallon model seen on the GX 470 kit (which also served the 4G 4Runners) - around 24 gallons.

One thought on the spindles - we can get you some formed spindle covers if you wish to run the bar without carriers. Around $20 each as I recall.

We are here to help - just call 209-636-0831 or shoot an email to info@cruiserbrothers.com

Thanks

Ward Harris and Georg Esterer

Thanks Ward. It's nice to finally have a U.S. distributor of some of these awesome products. I already have the heat shrink, so I will try that first but if it doesn't work I will definitely be contacting you about the spindle covers.

I'm glad you are going with a slightly smaller tank than LRA sells for the 150 Prados. 24 gallons seems like a good amount. Looking forward to seeing the design.

 

[TX GX460]

Kaymar's installation instructions are decent, and probably better than most suppliers, but they still leave room for improvement and they are also geared towards a Prado 150. You can ignore the bumper cut template and the door latch relocation steps entirely.

First step is to remove the bumper cover and disconnect the lights and parking sensors. Make sure to label the wire leads before detaching them so you know what they went to, especially for the sensor locations. This step was different for me, since I was removing the MetalTech bumper, so I don't have any photos for it.

Second, go ahead and install the rear lights. White on the bottom, red on the inside top, amber on the outside top. You will need to separate the rubber gasket from the back to fit the light through the opening, then line it back up with the rear of the light before screwing the light in. I will discuss the wiring later in the thread.

Third, attach the parking sensors to the new bumper. Remove the foam tape in its entirety from the sensor brackets (I cut it off with a razor blade), then clean the sensor bracket mounting location with rubbing alcohol and let dry before attaching new adhesive. I use 3M Scotch 5952 VHB tape, which has worked well for me in the past. Also clean the mounting surface around the hole on the interior of the bumper. For aesthetics, you will want to be able to see the location of the sensor with respect to the hole during mounting, so make sure the bumper is horizontal when you attempt the mounting step. Below are photos of the directions I mounted the sensors.

 

[TX GX460]

Wiring. The all-in-one lights on the bumper require leads from two locations. The reverse lights are powered from the same wiring harnesses as the parking sensors. The brake lights, tail lights and turn signals I pulled from the back of the light assembly above the bumper cover. I tied the grounds together from both locations just because I like redundancy. Below is a photo of the reverse light wiring coming from the parking sensor wire harness. Note that I followed the Kaymar light wiring, in which the ground wire is white and the reverse light is black. For the Kaymar lights, the right hand side light has a green turn signal wire, while the left hand light has a yellow turn signal wire. All other wire colors are the same between them.

Below is a guide for the wiring from the tail light assembly. By "running" I mean tail light below.

In case you can't read my handwriting, here is a summary:
Turn signal - Green with yellow stripe
Ground - White with black stripe
Brake - green with white stripe
Tail light - solid green

I tied into the lights just behind the harness, and ran the wires through a braided sleeve for protection before terminating them. The brake light is a smaller gauge wire than the rest, which is the reason for the different connector.

 

[TX GX460]

We cut off the factory pigtail for the reverse lights to install the MetalTech bumper's OPOR LED reverse lights, and new ones are ridiculously expensive, so I did not choose this option but you could use the same installation technique as the turn signals assembly above to have dual reverse lights (factory plus Kaymar LED). The spindles block the factory reverse lights, so it is probably pointless anyway, but it is an option if you choose to go that route. Light test shown below.

 

[TX GX460]

Wing install. I actually performed this next step before the wiring, but it really doesn't matter what order you do it in.

The side wings provide support for the forward sections of the bumper toward the fender wells. They each have a downward-hanging bracket that got in the way of my modified exhaust, as shown below. As it turns out, these are to reattach the Prado 150 stock mud flaps, which are different in design from the Lexus mud flaps. So they are useless and can be removed. I recommend cutting them off before installation, because otherwise they just create opportunities to catch on rocks or debris.

The wings install into factory threaded locations in the frame using provided hardware. Keep them loose until the bumper is completely installed.

 

[TX GX460]

There are some bumper support brackets that install to the body using supplied rivets. They provide spacing for the bumper cover after it is cut so it maintains the original body line. Follow the installation instructions provided by Kaymar, but location precision isn't vital here. Just make sure it is snug against the body protrusion shown below. I also recommend putting some primer or paint on the holes drilled for the rivets just to prevent corrosion. I am probably going to use two-sided tape to adhere the bumper cover to this bracket once the paint issue has been resolved to prevent repeated impact from wind.

 

[TX GX460]

You will need to enlarge one hole in the frame to fit a bolt. The bolt will be fed on a wire from a hole located in the rear fender area and bolted from the outside. Because the fender fits so tightly onto the frame you should drill out the hole before attempting to mount the bumper, but don't bother trying to thread it through until after the bumper has been mounted. After drilling, remember to add primer or paint to the cuts for rust prevention.

Pop off the cover shown to thread the bolt through (after mounting the bumper).

I used a magnet to pull the bolt through the hole once it was in the right location. Worked like a charm. Again, do this after the bumper has been put in place; the photos below are for illustration only.

After the bolt is in place and secured, push the wire completely in the frame and put the cover back on the hole in the wheel well. I recommend keeping the lead wire as long as possible in case you ever need to remove and reinstall; don't cut it off.

 

[TX GX460]

Bumper cover trim.

Remember that when trimming, the bumper cover is attached to the body while the Kaymar is attached to the frame. Articulation will result in flex and movement between them, so be mindful of this when making your cuts. A 1/4" to 1/2" gap would not be a bad thing, although I realize it doesn't look the best. There is also a constraint with the step trim portion of the bumper cover that provides a lowest practical cut line, as circled below. This is basically the line I ended up following all the way around. It creates a tighter gap than I would like (virtually none), so I will have to see whether it creates any future problems.

On the sides, the bumper cover actually sits just on the outside of the Kaymar bumper line, so even if there is some articulation-related movement it will probably not cause too many problems. Below is a photo of the side trim. The Kaymar bumper is hanging loosely, which is why the lines appear off. I used a two-sided edge trim from Amazon for both this and the front bumper cover edges. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NL477JE/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_QdInCbE6DFAMV It fits well but you really need to work it on tightly to secure it during install or it will pop back off.

There is some orange peel on the paint clearcoat due to the cold weather that we planned on buffing out before we noticed the color difference issue. That should not be a problem after we get it re-painted now that it is warmer here in Texas.

 

[TX GX460]

The trim for the middle step section is unclear and a little misleading in the Kaymar instructions due to the differences between vehicles. The function of keeping this section is to secure down the two layers on top of it. The bumper cover attaches to the body with screws, and the step surface and trim both secure into the bumper cover using clips.

When trimming the step area, the rule of thumb is to trim it so it does not interfere with the diamond plate step piece. The diamond plate starts out flat and as it approaches the body it has a rise with space to overlap the bumper and trim pieces. So what I did was place the diamond plate on the ground on top of the bumper cover in the same relative location to the bumper cover as would occur on the vehicle and then marked approximate locations of where the raised portion of the diamond plate ended. I ended up cutting about an inch on the inside of this line, which turned out fine. Below are photos during this process, which occurred prior to painting the bumper cover.

All of the clip locations necessary for the trim pieces are closer to the body/door opening, so you don't need to be super precise here. Below are some photos with the trimmed step piece already in place.

For the step piece, I trimmed along the line of the first set of ridges closest to the door. The main reason for this piece to be included is that it provides some of the mounting locations for the top trim piece. So again, prevision is not key here. But where I trimmed worked just fine. The step piece pops into place using tabs.

Below is a photo of screwing the bumper cover step area into place, which gives you an additional look at the trim location I used.

The cover then pops into place into the step piece without trimming.

 

[TX GX460]

And finally, you install the diamond plate with the included hex head bolts, making sure to line up the holes in the rubber gasket with the mounting holes during the install. This last step should only occur AFTER you complete mounting of the bumper, or otherwise you are likely to damage either the diamond plate or your door. I'll get to the bumper mounting step next.

 

[TX GX460]

Bar mounting.

Before you mount the bar, you should have mounted the bracket circled below onto your frame. The bumper will bolt into this bracket from underneath.

The bar was not terrible to mount, but it had some difficult steps. On the plus side, it can be placed on the rear frame member and rest there while you attach the bolts. On the minus side, the location where it will sit easily is not the correct final location.

I recommend that you loosely (specifically, as long as the bolt will allow) attach at least one bolt location between the wing brace and bumper on each side. This prevents the bar from sliding off the frame or tilting too much. Second, position the lateral bolt hole in the bumper that matches the clearance hole drilled for the bolt that passes through from the inside of the frame. This positioning will allow the rest of the bolts to be installed with relative ease because it places the bumper in approximately the right location. I first lifted each side into place by hand and then passed a bolt through from the outside that hung in place to position the bumper, then went back to more precisely position the holes and fish the bolt through. In order to get the best location for each of these holes (a necessity for easily pulling the bolt through from the inside), I used a large center punch as a lever in the holes to line them up.

The frame attaches to the wings, to the frame by two bolts under the frame on each side, with a spacer in between the bumper and frame, and at the hitch area with two additional bolts.

The wings are pretty self-explanatory. They should be attached loosely to the frame, and should be also loosely attached to the bumper wings at this time.

Below are photos of where the frame spacer should be placed. It slides in, so if you loosely locate the bolt holes first you can slide it in on each side around the bolts before tightening. *But don't tighten yet until you get the remaining bolts located.*

 

[TX GX460]

The other two bolts are passed through the hitch location gold bracket shown earlier and thread into captive nuts welded into the Kaymar bumper frame. The photo below is looking up and to the rear from under the hitch area. Again, loosely locate these at first.

The detail below from another photo shows how they mate up.

One thing that puzzled me was that there are location holes on the bottom of the hitch that line up to holes in the underside of the frame, as shown below. But the Kaymar instructions do not say anything about these locations, nor are there bolts provided to be installed there. I will probably still find some Grade 8 bolts and attempt to secure the bumper further here, but it apparently isn't necessary.

 

[TX GX460]

Next, start tightening bolts. I first loosely advanced all of the bolts to make sure they were all aligned properly. The lateral bolts on the frame don't have much play in them, so I first tightened the ones in the hitch area, followed by the ones in the bottom of the frame (making sure the spacers were in place), followed by the lateral bolts in the frame, followed by the connections between the wings and wing braces, and finally I tightened down the wing braces to the frame (then checking everything again).

Once this step is complete you can do the trim install discussed above, including the diamond plate. Everything should fit well.

In the next posts I will discuss modifying and reattaching the mud flaps (which I recommend for this bumper, even though I did not use them for the MetalTech), and hit any smaller issues/details I missed.

 

[HungryMedic]

the Kaymar looks great! I've been eyeing the Dobinsons or Kaymar for my 460 and getting it color matched.

 

[TX GX460]

the Kaymar looks great! I've been eyeing the Dobinsons or Kaymar for my 460 and getting it color matched.

Both great options for different reasons. Talk with Kyle Fogle at Treaty Oak Offroad if you aren't already about the Dobinsons. It is significantly cheaper, but also does not have its own integrated hitch receiver and from what I understand there have been difficulties getting the factory hitch to work with the Dobinsons bumper. He will know more than I do. But it is a great product for the price, especially if you are not planning on towing. The Kaymar is very well designed, and it looks like the 1st gen 460s like yours do not have the same spacing issue with the spindles and should work without modification. It is a lot cheaper now that Cruiser Brothers are selling them stateside - from what I have seen you will probably save about $1000 compared to what I had to pay before there was a significant U.S. distributor.

 

[wardharris]

Both great options for different reasons. Talk with Kyle Fogle at Treaty Oak Offroad if you aren't already about the Dobinsons. It is significantly cheaper, but also does not have its own integrated hitch receiver and from what I understand there have been difficulties getting the factory hitch to work with the Dobinsons bumper. He will know more than I do. But it is a great product for the price, especially if you are not planning on towing. The Kaymar is very well designed, and it looks like the 1st gen 460s like yours do not have the same spacing issue with the spindles and should work without modification. It is a lot cheaper now that Cruiser Brothers are selling them stateside - from what I have seen you will probably save about $1000 compared to what I had to pay before there was a significant U.S. distributor.

Georg @orangefj45 and I are trying to get these in country with hands on install experience. We are shipping 6-8 bar/carrier kits per month. This thread is extremely helpful.

We have imported Australian kits and accessories since 2015, selling 30-40 LRA tanks per month. We did the deal with Kaymar in Octrober and expect to match the LRA volume as we build brand and inventory.

Georg runs Valley Hybrids in Stockton, CA insalling all the Aussie gear so if you want a turn-key solution (including tanks, transmission upgrades, lockers, gearing, etc.) give Georg a call.

Thanks for your interest and support.

 

[HungryMedic]

Both great options for different reasons. Talk with Kyle Fogle at Treaty Oak Offroad if you aren't already about the Dobinsons. It is significantly cheaper, but also does not have its own integrated hitch receiver and from what I understand there have been difficulties getting the factory hitch to work with the Dobinsons bumper. He will know more than I do. But it is a great product for the price, especially if you are not planning on towing. The Kaymar is very well designed, and it looks like the 1st gen 460s like yours do not have the same spacing issue with the spindles and should work without modification. It is a lot cheaper now that Cruiser Brothers are selling them stateside - from what I have seen you will probably save about $1000 compared to what I had to pay before there was a significant U.S. distributor.

I've been back and forth on both. I live close to and am in the same group with Kevin @SSO and we've talked about a way to mod the Lil' hitch they sell to work or fab something, I know Kyle and I talked a while back about trying to modify the one that mounts to the Metal-Tech bumper as well as it doesn't hang. I tow an ATV and a boat on occasion but have another vehicle capable, so no deal breaker there.

kyle has been the brunt of many MMR related questions from me over the past 2 months, he's a great asset and he'll have quite the order once we get past my wife's thyroidectomy next week and out of the woods from that.

how is the ride on the MMR setup with the weight as my truck will be similar?

 

[HungryMedic]

Georg (including tanks, transmission upgrades, lockers, gearing, etc.)

[ATTACH=full]1875532[/ATTACH]

I am following the aux tank and transmission options very closely thanks for all y'all do!

 

[wardharris]

I am following the aux tank and transmission options very closely thanks for all y'all do!

Thanks, Erick, we are trying

 

[TX GX460]

I've been back and forth on both. I live close to and am in the same group with Kevin @SSO and we've talked about a way to mod the Lil' hitch they sell to work or fab something, I know Kyle and I talked a while back about trying to modify the one that mounts to the Metal-Tech bumper as well as it doesn't hang. I tow an ATV and a boat on occasion but have another vehicle capable, so no deal breaker there.

kyle has been the brunt of many MMR related questions from me over the past 2 months, he's a great asset and he'll have quite the order once we get past my wife's thyroidectomy next week and out of the woods from that.

how is the ride on the MMR setup with the weight as my truck will be similar?

Sorry to hear about your wife's surgery. Best wishes to her for a speedy recovery.

You're in good hands with both Kyle and the MRR shocks. Key for weight issues is proper spring rate, and Kyle knows what he is doing for 460 models. I really like my ride. Just remember that springs need some break in time, so your initial feel for the first month or so is always going to be stiffer than what it ends up being. So don't be surprised if it seems a little firm at first.

If you are going to tow on an infrequent basis then I suggest you go with Kyle's suggestions for spring rates based on your build and then add airbags in your rear springs to assist with maintaining the proper height when towing. They are pretty inexpensive and easy to install, and can be used with or without on-board air. As for the rates, just make sure that Kyle knows what is or is planning to be on your truck in the near future (bumpers, winch, skids, sliders, drawers, jacks, fridges, etc.) because this all goes to the issue of vehicle weight and therefore spring rates. For example, my rear has increased in height almost a half inch since switching to the Kaymar because the MetalTech was that much heavier. I'm now hitting the height restriction bar at my office on the way in at the back of the car sometimes, where I used to clear it every time. If you run it as a DD with empty swing arms most of the time like me, but then load it up for trips, he will want to know that as well because you may want the lower rated springs so that your springs give you the correct ride for 99% of your driving (another good reason to get airbags).