Builds His and Her GX 460 Builds (3 Viewers)

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I ordered the swingout with the tire carrier and dual jerry can holder with included license plate bracket. You can also order a dual LED light kit from MetalTech that attaches to the plate bracket (note, this exact LED kit is also available from Amazon or eBay for cheaper). I removed my passenger side tail light and connected wiring to run out along the swing arm and to the license plate bracket as shown. It works well and I have had no problems with it. Note: if doing it again I would use lower resistance automotive wire instead of speaker wire.

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I also wasn't very impressed with the Jerry Can holder design, for several reasons. First, the jerry cans (Wavian 20L) were very loose and rattled around, even when strapped down. There was a pretty good amount of space on either side. I put in adhesive-backed insulative foam on the bottom and sides of the trays to keep them from making too much noise, which helped somewhat. I also had to place some foam on the strap that holds them down so it didn't rub too much on the jerry can spout.

That brings me to my second complaint. The design requires that the rear-facing / lower strap location be in place, with the strap hanging down away from the shelf, before you place the can in the shelf. As you place the can down, you have to then rotate the strap up at the same time around and over the can, or it all gets wedged in and stuck. This is very difficult for one person to do with a full can, especially when you have shoulder problems like I do.
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There was also a bit of a gap between the swing arm and the c-shaped portion of the assembly where it sat on the arm, so I also used some adhesive-backed rubber to eliminate this gap and the resulting noise/movement.
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The step area of the bumper is slippery and hard, so I also covered it with adhesive-backed rubber. There wasn't much room so I used 1/16". It provides enough cushion to kneel without discomfort, enough traction for my dogs to get in and out without slipping, and has been remarkably durable. First two photos were during installation, and last is final result.
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I have not yet installed the Kaymar, but the design and build quality appears to be top-notch. Everything is well-engineered, and although some aspects may be overboard (on quality/design, not weight), I can appreciate the amount of attention to detail that went into the design. Some photos below from when I unpacked the crate. I will provide updates after install.
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Thank you for the rear bumper post. I was disappointed to see the body damage (as you were). I have also seen other similar complaints on their jerry can holder. Thanks for sharing your experiences with us.
 
Thank you for the rear bumper post. I was disappointed to see the body damage (as you were). I have also seen other similar complaints on their jerry can holder. Thanks for sharing your experiences with us.

Happy to share, and just trying to get good information to people. I try to do my research like most people here, but as an early adopter I know I am sometimes one of the first to try a new product or apply it in a new way. I just hope that others can benefit from my experiences, both good and bad.
 
Next up: engine bay and electrical.

As usual, I learned a lot from my personal rig that I improved on with my wife's. So this time I will talk first about my wife's setup and then go to mine.

I went with the PowerTrays system for the 5th Gen T4R in my wife's vehicle, and it fit perfectly. The one I selected fits the single ARB compressor, a SwitchPro, ground busbar and positive power fuse bar. In the photos I have not yet added the SwitchPro, but you can see where it goes.

I highly recommend installing the vertical support leg for the PowerTray first, then attach the tray with all components already installed to the fender and the support leg. Note that the compressor tire inflation kit that comes with the air chuck for mounting on the PowerTray does not include an extension hose from the compressor to the chuck, so you have to supply your own. I used one I had laying around that is too long but works when coiled. A 10-12" hose would probably work well. I also did not have a washer to hold the chuck in place on the PowerTray, as the opening is too large to hold in place without one. I used a plastic bottle cap for now, but given how hot that chuck gets when operating I will be changing it out very soon. I also attached the relay switch to the bottom of the tray where it is out of the way. I am a little concerned about whether the vibrations from the compressor will eventually make the relay disconnect, but not enough to move it at this point.

I attached the switch for the compressor to a trim attachment point under the front cowling. Since the only time I use a compressor is when I am airing up (no air lockers on either rig right now), a switch in the engine bay is most convenient.
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In my vehicle, I have attached a Blue Sea fuse block, SwitchPro 9100 and ARB compressor, as shown below. The SwitchPro is mounted on a plate that attaches to the fender with the same mounting points used by the PowerTrays above. Not as nice looking, but because I kept the shroud around the compressor the wiring is kept mostly out of sight, which I like.
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I will take some photos of the SwitchPro switch wiring and panel location and update soon.
 
My vehicle is a Premium model, which for 2014+ means it does not have the air ride suspension or crawl control (descent control only). It also does not have Multi-Terrain Select. As mentioned at the beginning of this thread, I went ahead and added both, thanks to the directions posted in this forum. The most difficult part was the MTS, because of where the computer was located behind the glove box, which is a pain to remove and get behind.

I must say that I have tried crawl in a few situations, and have not been terribly impressed with it. The best use is probably when you are stuck in sand, but I generally like to control throttle and braking myself (same reason I almost never use cruise control). So although I spent some money and time getting both of these functions, I can't say that I have gotten any noticeable return for my time/money. If you are a decent driver without the aids and are on a budget, I would say save your money for other endeavors. Replacement switch for crawl control pictured below for reference.
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Water heating.

I purchased a Glind water heater for camping. They aren't cheap at $300. When I got it, I was pretty unimpressed at the quality and design. It is a very old design for a heat exchanger - a cylinder with tubing running through it in a coil shape. Not very efficient. I would still need a water source, tubing in and out of the heat exchanger that I could connect to the water source and an output, and a pump. Then my shower would necessarily need to be close to the vehicle, making water runoff an issue.
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This wasn't very palatable to me, especially given the inefficient design of the Glind. I also didn't like having to have the car on during the entire period of water heating. So I went a different direction and purchased a Zodiak Hot Tap shower. I set it up very similar to the suggested way in this post: Good camping water heater with slight modifications

As a result, if anyone wants a new and never used Glind heat exchanger at a reduced rate, just send me a message with a reasonable offer.

Because the water can scald if the shower is turned off, I recirculate water until it is hot (it does not take long), then turn off the heater and switch to shower mode. Great shower with good pressure and heat. In fact, it gets hot so quickly that you need to keep an eye on it to make sure the recirculated water isn't getting too hot. I used a trailer brake harness on a long lead to attach the pump to the car battery, and the pump and wiring are attached to the 10-gallon water jug. I will try to find some photos for it. The only downside of the Zodiak is that the shower unit (propane heated) gets very hot, so be careful about handling it after the shower is completed and make sure it is in a stable location where it will not tip over or be accidentally run into.

Next up: interior, and wheels and tires. I will also try to take some photos to update information in prior posts above.
 
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My vehicle is a Premium model, which for 2014+ means it does not have the air ride suspension or crawl control (descent control only). It also does not have Multi-Terrain Select. As mentioned at the beginning of this thread, I went ahead and added both, thanks to the directions posted in this forum. The most difficult part was the MTS, because of where the computer was located behind the glove box, which is a pain to remove and get behind.

I must say that I have tried crawl in a few situations, and have not been terribly impressed with it. The best use is probably when you are stuck in sand, but I generally like to control throttle and braking myself (same reason I almost never use cruise control). So although I spent some money and time getting both of these functions, I can't say that I have gotten any noticeable return for my time/money. If you are a decent driver without the aids and are on a budget, I would say save your money for other endeavors. Replacement switch for crawl control pictured below for reference.
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Have you had a chance to try out the different MTS modes? I will probably pass on CC in mine but would consider MTS. The install looks at about my skill level. Plus at around $200 why not?
 
Have you had a chance to try out the different MTS modes? I will probably pass on CC in mine but would consider MTS. The install looks at about my skill level. Plus at around $200 why not?
Not on a trail yet; frankly I forgot to even try it the last few times I went out after it was installed. The next time I go I will try some different modes to see if I can tell a difference and I will put in an update. Will probably take 3-4 weeks.
 
Keep the updates coming..this thread continues to impress!!
I'm very interested in the ARB onboard air system now. Was there any issues fitting it in the engine bay? Did you use the GX470 PowerTray kit?
What wheels and tires are you getting?
 
Not on a trail yet; frankly I forgot to even try it the last few times I went out after it was installed. The next time I go I will try some different modes to see if I can tell a difference and I will put in an update. Will probably take 3-4 weeks.
I would appreciate it. I am mid process of moving to Ohio so I won’t be wheeling until we find a house.
 
Keep the updates coming..this thread continues to impress!!
I'm very interested in the ARB onboard air system now. Was there any issues fitting it in the engine bay? Did you use the GX470 PowerTray kit?
What wheels and tires are you getting?
Thanks msgs350. The ARB system was pretty easy to install, although the electrical instructions were meant for a locker install and needed to be adapted a little for my purposes of just and on/off. Not difficult but took a little trial and error getting the relay switch and harness operating the way I wanted.
The fit was easy with the PowerTray. It was the 5th Gen 4Runner model. Everything fit as expected. The only complaints I have is that the location of the chuck is a little close to the compressor, and as I mentioned above the size of the hole for the chuck was too big, but overall I am very happy with the PowerTray.
I will be doing a more detailed post on wheels and tires, but my wheels are SCS Ray10s in Gunmetal. Everyone complains that they are always out of stock, but if you contact Vuth at SCS he will allow you to preorder for the next shipment. What goes online is whatever is left over. For tires I chose Toyo ATIIs. Great ride, good offroad capabilities and extremely quiet on the freeway.
We haven't picked wheels and tires for my wife yet. Once I do we will update the post.
 
So, we did a thing today...
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We traded in my wife's GX for a 200 series since she wanted more room in her vehicle (I took the GX back to stock first, luckily I hadn't done anything I couldn't undo yet). We weren't sure we would be pulling the trigger today after a few unsuccessful earlier attempts, but the stars aligned today. I guess the "his and hers" thing is no more, but I will continue this thread as to my build. I will create a build thread for her cruiser in the 200 series forum once we start working on it.
 
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Next is skids.

To date, no one makes a Lexus GX 460-specific full skid kit. It took me some trial-and-error to figure out what works. Based on our feedback and them getting in a 460 to test, RCI now sells a GX 460 kit (you may have to call them) that includes a 5th Gen T4R front, engine and gas tank skid, and 4th Gen V-8 T4R transmission and transfer case skids. You will likely still have to modify the brace over the transfer case as I outline below. RCI's LCA skids for the 5th Gen T4R fit great as well.

First, what generally works without modification: 5th Gen 4Runner gas tank, engine, KDSS front and LCA skids. In the rear, the BudBuilt rear diff skid fits great and works with the KDSS rear end without modification. In front, the GX oil filter is located higher up than the T4R one, and is oriented differently, but you can still access it through the access plate in the RCI skid. The oil drain plug is also still spot-on.

The problem with the transmission and transfer case skids is that the additional size and length of the V8 drivetrain components in the GX cause interference problems with 4Runner kits build around V6 engines. I have not tried the entire skids for Prado 150 kits made for V6 or diesel models, but I can only assume the same would likely be true due to their smaller, less powerful engines.

After much research (but before I discovered the issue above), I first ordered a full KDSS 5th Gen T4R RCI steel skid kit, including gas tank and LCA skids, and the BudBuilt rear differential skid. I went with steel because I prize strength over weight savings.

I paid for the RCI skids to be powdercoated black, while the BudBuilt rear diff skid came bare metal. I used a self-etching primer (careful to mask off the threaded bolt holes) and hammered black Rustoleum to paint the rear diff skid. The rear diff skid went on great and does not interfere with articulation or the KDSS system that I have seen.

I did not know how the RCI skids would work out and whether I would need fabrication, so I brought them to Tandem Automotive here in the DFW area for fitting. It's a great shop if you are looking for work on an offroad Toyota or Lexus platform. They can do installations, fabrication, and they even have their own line of Toyota/Lexus offroad wheels that look fantastic. Tandem Automotive

As mentioned above, the RCI 5th Gen T4R gas tank skid fits great. Photo below.
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One of the first issues arose with the front skid. The front shroud of the ARB bumber attaches to bolt hole locations on the factory skid that are not found on the RCI skid, and are in fact located further outboard than the RCI skid edges.

I ended up with a simple but inelegant solution - I had them sandwich the ARB center shroud between the frame and skid, then tightened down the skid until it was flush. Below is a photo before tightening. This bent and secured the tabs on the ARB shroud to the point that it wasn't going anywhere. Several hundred serious offroad miles later and there has been no movement.
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And tightened down from a different angle:
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Once we figured out that the 5th Gen V6 T4R transmission and rear diff skid were not going to work, I purchased the 4th Gen V8 ones and we tried again. As it turns out, the cross-brace for the V8 T4R does not fit the GX 460 (makes sense), so we ended up modifying the 5th Gen brace to clear the transfer case. Below is the result. From what I understand, RCI currently instructs GX 460 customers to make this similar modification themselves. I do not know if they plan on creating a new brace for the GX 460 customers.
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By the way, I need to hand it to RCI for their great customer service and for working with me and Tandem Automotive to figure this problem out and get it fixed. The people over there spent a lot of time doing their own research and fitting to find a solution for us and I am very pleased with the results.

Once the clearance issue was taken care of, the V8 T4R skids for the transmission and transfer case went on just fine. They did not line up perfectly with the 5th Gen cross brace, and we needed to drill new holes in the brace for the bolts to go through, but otherwise they worked well.


Could you please let me know what you modified to make it fit? The Toyota V8 transfer case brace I ordered is 1" too long to fit in-between my frame rails. Did you shorten the brace to make it work? Thank you for any feedback!
 
Could you please let me know what you modified to make it fit? The Toyota V8 transfer case brace I ordered is 1" too long to fit in-between my frame rails. Did you shorten the brace to make it work? Thank you for any feedback!
Nickk6, your question made me realize that my earlier post may have not been clear enough regarding the cross brace issue in the RCI setup portion. I sincerely apologize for any lack of clarity. I did not run into this specific issue because I originally ordered the 5th Gen T4R full skid kit and had to replace just the transmission skid due to the length differences and then modify the cross brace. The modified brace is the 5th Gen T4R brace, but the 4th Gen V8 transmission skid. I will make sure that is clear in my earlier post. I am sure RCI will work with you in changing it out; they were great with me when we had to change out the transmission skid. The modification photo is below, before and after.
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Could you please let me know what you modified to make it fit? The Toyota V8 transfer case brace I ordered is 1" too long to fit in-between my frame rails. Did you shorten the brace to make it work? Thank you for any feedback!
Nickk6,

I just checked and below is the prior quote where I discussed the modification to the 5th Gen T4R brace on the second page; if there is anything about this original information that could have been made more clear please let me know:

"Once we figured out that the 5th Gen V6 T4R transmission and rear diff skid were not going to work, I purchased the 4th Gen V8 ones and we tried again. As it turns out, the cross-brace for the V8 T4R does not fit the GX 460 (makes sense), so we ended up modifying the 5th Gen brace to clear the transfer case. Below is the result. From what I understand, RCI currently instructs GX 460 customers to make this similar modification themselves. I do not know if they plan on creating a new brace for the GX 460 customers."

I will add a statement at the start of the skid writeup that will hopefully flag the issue for anyone else reading.
 
Thanks for the clarification, that's exactly what I was thinking was needed, but the brace I received already has that cut out but it does not fit since my brace is 37" and my frame is 36" I.D. so I would have to cut the brace ends off remove some material and re-weld. I'm thinking I may have received a V6 brace since I had received a 4runner front skid instead on accident. I'll check with RCI Tuesday, thanks again for the quick update!
 

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