Build His and Her GX 460 Builds

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And here is the scales sheet. I apologize it took longer than planned; it has been a crazy month and my focus has been elsewhere. @Torn, you're the clear winner, having guessed 6300 lbs. Only 80 lbs off!
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@Torn, DM me your address and I will send out the sticker collection you won.
 
Someone asked for additional measurements/build info on my drawers, so below are some more photos (the rest of it is on page 1 of this build). I am probably going to be replacing these with a new drawer setup similar to what I did in my wife's 200 series LC (although without a movable drawer holding the fridge). When I finally get around to that I will make sure to post build information and will also try to snap plenty of measurement photos along the way to document it better.

The outside of the drawers are 42", with plywood vertical pieces, 3/4" of spacing for the drawer slides, then the sides of the drawers. This results in a 34" internal drawer width as shown two photos down. Note that this width allows for the extra space on the right-hand side for the Radflo Hydra-Jac, as shown on p.1 of the build.
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The photo below is the depth of the drawers (measurement along the top of the drawers from the back seat to the drawer face). As you can see on p.1, this is shorter than the bottom measurement, because I angled the back plane of the box so that it sits flush with the rear seats when in the "medium" recline position.
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Width of the drawer body. Notice the extra space between the drawer and body on this side to accommodate the jack. If you want more drawer space you can widen the drawer accordingly.
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I used pre-cut lumber for the drawer internals, so they are 5.5" in height.
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Drawer length (back to front) is 37.2".
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Got some new toys in today from Stedi in Australia. LED replacement fogs for my Summit bumper on the GX, and Type-X Pro driving lights for the LC 200. I am looking forward to doing a comparison to the LP9 Pros. With the current exchange rate, the Type-X pair cost about half of the LP9s and arrived in about a week. Not bad for coming from Australia. My wife also likes the fact that the Stedis have customizable color rings and covers.

The replacement fogs are plug-and-play in the Summit bumper. They have a DRL ring in addition to fog functionality. Stedi has similar solutions for other bumpers, like IronMan Premium and ARB Deluxe.

I will make sure to document install in both, and post comparison photos of performace for the driving lights.

Summit bar fog replacements:
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Driving lights for 200:
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Visual comparison to LP9s:
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As a side note, I need to start a 200 series build thread. When I do I will link to it. In the mean time, here is a glimpse of the current state of my wife's LC. Your eyes don't deceive you, it is purple.
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I just scanned back through your entire thread, no dual batteries yet? Plans? Location? Not a fan of undersized batteries in the stock location, for sure won fit two Odyssey batteries 65 amp hr in there.
 
Washingtontaco said:
I just scanned back through your entire thread, no dual batteries yet? Plans? Location? Not a fan of undersized batteries in the stock location, for sure won fit two Odyssey batteries 65 amp hr in there.
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No, I don't have a current need. No refrigerator or other major draws. I put in a dual setup group 31/34 in the LC 200.

If I were to do a dual setup, I would remove SAIS with the Hewitt Tech Gen 2 bypass, clear out the space by the passenger firewall, and put the second battery in there (same location ad on 5th gen T4Rs). I would probably also do a big 3 upgrade and high output alternator at the same time.
 
TX GX460 said:
No, I don't have a current need. No refrigerator or other major draws. I put in a dual setup group 31/34 in the LC 200.

If I were to do a dual setup, I would remove SAIS with the Hewitt Tech Gen 2 bypass, clear out the space by the passenger firewall, and put the second battery in there (same location ad on 5th gen T4Rs). I would probably also do a big 3 upgrade and high output alternator at the same time.
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Unfortunately I have the secondary A/C system and have a plethora of A/C plumbing at the fire wall where the 4Runner battery goes. Thinking of installing the Odyssey 65-PC1750 in the factory location and a battery box with the 65-PC1750 and BCDC located in the spare tire area bolted to the cross members. More investigation is required.
 
Washingtontaco said:
Unfortunately I have the secondary A/C system and have a plethora of A/C plumbing at the fire wall where the 4Runner battery goes. Thinking of installing the Odyssey 65-PC1750 in the factory location and a battery box with the 65-PC1750 and BCDC located in the spare tire area bolted to the cross members. More investigation is required.
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If you are already going AGM, I assume you will be increasing your alternator voltage. It is more expensive, but for your secondary battery you might want to consider a Battle Born LiPO4 battery. They are smaller and lighter than equivalent AGM batteries, but are charged in the same voltage range. You are then more likely to find a spot to fit the secondary battery. I just would not recommend putting a lithium battery under the truck without skid protection - I would not want to run the fire risk if it was punctured.
 
TX GX460 said:
If you are already going AGM, I assume you will be increasing your alternator voltage. It is more expensive, but for your secondary battery you might want to consider a Battle Born LiPO4 battery. They are smaller and lighter than equivalent AGM batteries, but are charged in the same voltage range. You are then more likely to find a spot to fit the secondary battery. I just would not recommend putting a lithium battery under the truck without skid protection - I would not want to run the fire risk if it was punctured.
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For the time being I’ll be using a NOCO charger to top off the start battery. This is not a daily driver and ran into the same problem with my Taco of the batteries not being topped off. The BCDC resolves the issue for the house battery.

LiPO is not a good choice for me. I spend almost every week in the mountains during winter skiing. Trying to keep the LiPO warm even cabin mounted would be another level of complexity.
 
Washingtontaco said:
LiPO is not a good choice for me. I spend almost every week in the mountains during winter skiing. Trying to keep the LiPO warm even cabin mounted would be another level of complexity.
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Most people just use an electric heat pad of some sort powered by the battery itself.
 
Mena661 said:
Most people just use an electric heat pad of some sort powered by the battery itself.
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I have read that. Just a bit more work. If I was living out of a vehicle like #vanlife then the costs and hassle would be worth the trouble.
 
Just a fun bit of trivia, if you thought using a hole saw on a GX took out a big chunk take a look at what the LC requires.
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Below is me doing my best Eddie Murphy SNL Gumby impression with the gasket for the 200 snorkel for size reference. That's a lot of air flow.
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:oops:............ oh and the hole is large
 
Turbohardtop said:
How do you like the Stedi replacements. Are they just foglights or combo driving light?
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I haven't gotten them installed yet. I am hoping to do it within the next few days. They are replacement fog lights that fit the ARB Summit bumper fog locations, which are an unusual size/shape. I will post photos once I am done.

I am very impressed with the Stedi driving lights and the Baja Designs fogs on the LC so far, especially for the price. The Stedis appear very well built and are plenty bright. Photo below of driving lights and BD fogs on LC (at angle to lower blinding effect on photo). As soon as I can, I am going to do a nighttime head-to-head of the Stedi Type-X Pros with the BD LP9s.
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Gotcha. I saw that they have replacements for the Ironman as well. I will wait on tour review of the driving light. That way if the results are close to the LP9 then I will order the dogs along with the driving lights.
 
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