High Mileage PM

[Hugga99]

Hey Everyone.

Just picked up a new-to-me 2001 Land Cruiser, 230k miles. I have had a 98', and an 03', before, I simply cannot stay away from the Cruisers. This is the highest mileage one, that I have had, and while not new to Cruiser's, I want to get everyone's advice on whether there is anything specific, I should do, for the higher mileage PM.

I have records going back to roughly 190k. While that may have worried me, there has been so much done, since that mileage, that I was not concerned. Here is a list of what has been done, since 190k.
- Multiple Oil Changes (regular, not synthetic)
- Spark Plugs (all 8)
- Transmission Service
- Power Steering Flush
- Brake Fluid Flush
- Rotors turned/ Pads
- Bearings repacked
- Tires @ 190k
- Master Cylinder (new) *Did have the breakdown, with all lights flashing/beeping
- Power Rack & Pinion Assembly
- Radiator
- Timing Belt/Water Pump Thermostat @ 208k
- A/C Evaporator, Dryer
- Camshaft Seals
- Crankshaft Seals
- Valve Cover Gaskets
- Coolant Hoses
- Bank 1 Oxygen Sensor
- Front Drive Axle, C/V Boot (2)

It is a long list, and certainly, not inexpensive. It was all done at a local Dealer. I have been reading the forum for years, now, and cannot think of anything else that I should do, but want to hear what others have experienced at higher miles, to see if I should add anything to my PM list.

Should I switch to synthetic oil now, or wait until next oil change is due? Anyone recommend proactively changing ignition coils? I would think I should just wait until they run a code, or I feel it running roughly. From the reading that I have done, it seems that pretty much every major PM item has been done. Certainly, if I had paid for all these repairs, I think this Cruiser would have felt like a money pit.

First Cruiser has 125k, second 195k, now 230k. This forum has given me the confidence to continually "downgrade". In the short term, the Cruiser could use some new leather (quite worn), which is unfortunate. It has a cracked windshield, and a check engine for an oxygen sensor (no big deal). Anyone use generic seat covers, that they would recommend? I know a total leather job would be $1,500(ish), which I may want to do, but maybe there are some nice seat covers that someone has had good experience with, that would get the job done, well enough.

I look forward to hearing any advice, and driving my first 200k+ Cruiser. Thanks!!

 

[87warrior]

If the heater hose tees were not replaced with the 'Coolant Hoses' service you probably ought to get a couple. Also, crawl under there and grease the driveshafts.

I like to change the oil first thing on any used vehicle I buy. It's far easier to set and stick to a schedule that way.

If you want to wait for ignition coil failure before replacement, have a new coil in the Cruiser along with the few tools needed to do the job. At 270k miles on mine, only two of the coils have been replaced, but I do carry a spare and I always have a OBDII adapter along for the ride whenever (not if) another lets go.

 

[2001LC]

It's great to have all this stuff done by PO. But I've found most shop do improperly. Wheel bearing set up, missing seal in front drive shaft, spark plug loose are just a few of the common issues I find.

Base-line it.

Check all work done, do a major tune up and RR none serviceable parts (cracked hoses or what every), check the heater tee's, do a proper coolant flush and go with all synthetic lubes ASAP. Replace coils as they go but make sure the spark plugs are all good and check compression. Valve cover bolts need re-torqueing and we are now considering replace bolts at some point.
broken valve cover bolts


Here a partial list to inspect: Advice needed #do I dare
And more: 330k plus, and want to freshen the ol' gal up a bit 204,000 mi recommended maintainence A lot of over lap but you'll be able to build a good list.

 

[Hugga99]

If the heater hose tees were not replaced with the 'Coolant Hoses' service you probably ought to get a couple. Also, crawl under there and grease the driveshafts.

I like to change the oil first thing on any used vehicle I buy. It's far easier to set and stick to a schedule that way.

If you want to wait for ignition coil failure before replacement, have a new coil in the Cruiser along with the few tools needed to do the job. At 270k miles on mine, only two of the coils have been replaced, but I do carry a spare and I always have a OBDII adapter along for the ride whenever (not if) another lets go.

Awesome. I will get the reader, always meaning to, never have. I do know about the Heater T, I checked, they look good. They must have been done around 200k, when all the coolant hoses were done.

 

[Hugga99]

It's great to have all this stuff done by PO. But I've found most shop do improperly. Wheel bearing set up, missing seal in front drive shaft, spark plug loose are just a few of the common issues I find.

Base-line it.

Check all work done, do a major tune up and RR none serviceable parts (cracked hoses or what every), check the heater tee's, do a proper coolant flush and go with all synthetic lubes ASAP. Replace coils as they go but make sure the spark plugs are all good and check compression. Valve cover bolts need re-torqueing and we are now considering replace bolts at some point.
broken valve cover bolts


Here a partial list to inspect: Advice needed #do I dare
And more: 330k plus, and want to freshen the ol' gal up a bit 204,000 mi recommended maintainence A lot of over lap but you'll be able to build a good list.

All the work was done at the local Toyota dealer, so I hope it was done well. I have to imagine they work on these things constantly, and they certainly charged a premium. I was shocked at how much was spent on the car, in the past 3 years.

I will change to synthetic, when it is next in the shock. Oil change was just done 100 miles ago, so it isn't a huge issue, right now. I will check the valve cover bolts. Would those have been replaced when the gaskets were done?

 

[2001LC]

I've found Dealer's make plenty of mistakes, or young tech just doesn't know the in's & outs of the 100 series. I'm evaluating a 2007 now Dealer maintained. I'm finding issues from work they did I'll need to correct. I've no doubt Wheel bearing will also need re done.

 

[Hugga99]

Ah, ok. I will take a look around. I have a guy over my house, as I type this, replacing the windshield. Found some rust, in the gutters, said the windshield has likely been replaced before, and the people did not do it very well.

He said he is going to sand it down, prime it, and install new windshield.

 

[Hugga99]

Also, car feels a bit wobbly, left/right. Likely control arms? Shocks were done, somewhat recently.

 

[85x]

Beyond what you have listed, my $0.02 is to replace all the sway bar bushings asap. Its pretty easy to do yourself and sinfully inexpensive (by 100 standards) for the improvements they make.

Beyond that, I also highly recommend replacing the rear upper control / lower control arms and lateral bar entirely. Those bushings are a bish to replace and are only marginally cheaper than replacing the whole unit with high quality SPC or Metaltech parts. The lateral bar can be replaced with the factory part for ~$250. Get a couple cans of PB blaster and get after it on a weekend. You will be shocked how much better it handles. Also, there are competing theories that replacing these parts helps with the "thunk".

Good luck!

 

[Hugga99]

Awesome, good advice. Cruiser seems perfect, aside from it feeling a bit wobbly.

When you say inexpensive, what are we talking? I really don't have much space to do work myself, no garage, it makes things difficult. I love to read about DIY, but honestly never actually do it myself. Haha.

 

[85x]

Awesome, good advice. Cruiser seems perfect, aside from it feeling a bit wobbly.

When you say inexpensive, what are we talking? I really don't have much space to do work myself, no garage, it makes things difficult. I love to read about DIY, but honestly never actually do it myself. Haha.

For all the sway bar bushings about $100-$200 depending if your hardware is roached out... Don't quote me on the exact cost but @beno can get you set up with anything you need and great customer service.

The rear UCA/LCA and lateral bar are about $250 per set so ~$750 total.

It would just take some jack stands, basic wrenches, pb blaster and a few cold ones. I think you will find it satisfying saving a handful of cash by tackling at least the bushings. I'm not super talented with a wrench... You can do it yourself with some sweat and an afternoon. Take the money you saved, fill up your tank a few times and enjoy the fruits of your labor!