330k plus, and want to freshen the ol' gal up a bit

[HiFiGuy]

My beloved 1999 LC100 went past 330k miles this past month, and I would like to slowly work on bringing her back around to her former glory, and let her continue to age gracefully. I am already mindful of the next installment of 90k service intervals @ 360k. I am changing oil with Castrol Syntec @ 7500-8000 miles. I very much need to get the weepy valve cover gaskets replaced, which I will do soon, having already bought the parts. I have already replaced the shocks with Bilsteins (which are excellent, BTW) and since I am trailering a bit, I uprated the rear springs to OME 220# units, which restored the "spring" in her step and raised up her bustle a bit.

eg.: I probably need brake pads. I did the front wheel bearings (rebuilt them) a couple of years ago, and they feel good still. I could tell they were in need of TLC before, and that's why I tore them down the first time.

When I first got her @ 52k miles, 11 years ago, I was so impressed that she drove like a sports car more than a truck, and I know that various bushings, etc. can help bring back some of that precision and tautness to the steering, but don't know which ones to replace or where they might be.

Here's one thing I found on Mud that seems like it might help. 52380-60040 - front axle support bushing

I'd like to find some sway bar bushings, preferably poly, unless you guys generally see problems with that. I use them on my race car, and am fond of the firmness in that application, but maybe it's too much for the LC.

Also saw a suggestion for rear upper and lower trailing arms. Makes sense. What else should I be looking at? I know with my son's car, we replaced the steering giubo (flex disc) and that tightened it up a lot, but I don't know if Land Cruisers have that or not. I know some models of Cruisers do. We also replaced his front control arms, including new poly FCA bushings. Again, I don't know if anyone makes such a thing for LC100s.

So, all suggestions are welcome, and I am needing to mind the p's and q's (in this case, pennies and quarters), so the most effective bang for the buck is certainly a priority.

 

[DirtDawg]

I would go through your whole suspension and replace any worn bushings or components. LCA & UCA bushings & balljoints, front diff mount bushings, steering rack bushings & tie rods, rear control arm bushings, and track bar bushings. Check your engine & motor mounts.

I would also make sure you keep your driveline lubed and replace your u-joints if you haven't already. I can think of other small stuff to check such as steering shaft u-joint and other small components, but the list could go on.

But make sure you got all the big stuff covered and it'll feel like a new rig. Also most stick to OEM rubber bushings on all the suspension components (unless they go aftermarket) as they provide a less jarring ride. However most replace their steering rack bushings with poly.

 

[HiFiGuy]

Where is a good source for the poly steering column bushing? Also, is it pretty much understood that @cruiserdan has all the necessary OEM parts at the best prices? Haven't replaced the U-joints in the driveshafts yet, but probably need to, because I didn't know they needed to be lubed until recently, so I haven't been doing that. There is definitely slack and a clunk when going from P to R, or R to D.

 

[mattafact]

Where is a good source for the poly steering column bushing? Also, is it pretty much understood that @cruiserdan has all the necessary OEM parts at the best prices? Haven't replaced the U-joints in the driveshafts yet, but probably need to, because I didn't know they needed to be lubed until recently, so I haven't been doing that. There is definitely slack and a clunk when going from P to R, or R to D.

I think he retired. In the vendor section there is a place that gives a good discount. Otherwise hit up cruiser outfitters and they'll take care of you.

 

[cruiserdan]

I hung up my parts cleats last April after 37 years in the trenches. I now curate for the Land Cruiser Heritage Museum in Salt Lake City UT.

 

[HiFiGuy]

I think he retired. In the vendor section there is a place that gives a good discount. Otherwise hit up cruiser outfitters and they'll take care of you.

To which place in the vendors section are you referring? I see the link for Cruiser Outfitters in UT, but what is the first one you mentioned?

 

[DirtDawg]

To which place in the vendors section are you referring? I see the link for Cruiser Outfitters in UT, but what is the first one you mentioned?

Contact @beno for parts

 

[HiFiGuy]

Contact @beno for parts

Land Cruiser Parts and Consulting, got it. Thank you.

 

[2001LC]

Photograph undercarriage, drive train, suspension, engine with shielding removed. Then clean and degrease.
Drive 500 miles.
Inspect & repair leaks

Wheel bearing service (clean & repack with grease), should include axle bearing & bushing service as well, "Often missed". Setting breakaway preload & snap ring gap is key to a proper job. Few shop do this properly.
Inspect wheel hub flange teeth to axle teeth back lash, Zero is spec. Worn teeth here is leading cause of N to D clunk.

Steering rack mounting bushing (everyone I've seen needs this). Amazon.com: Whiteline W13210 Front Steering Rack and Pinion Mount Bushing: Automotive

Check all front end ball joints & boots. (Steering, ball joints, TRE's, & drive shafts AKA CV's)
Check all suspension bushing. Poly will transfer more road feel & noise. Rubber gives more, as factory intended.
Check all engine, transmission, Transfer case and differential mounts.
Check all exhaust mounts.
Check all body mounts.
Flush power steering (I like M1 syn MV AFT for this & transmission fluid), may also need to clean reservoir and re-clamp reservoir hoses.
Inspect rotors & pads of brakes.
Adjust hand brake.
Flush brake fluid. Make sure all bleeders have caps/covers.
Have ABS cycled, with tech stream.
Inspect brake lines.
Rotate best tires to front & balance.
Inspect spare wheel carry mount & cable.
Alignment (include ACH tech stream setup).
Flush AHC if applicable. (make sure all bleeder caps/covers)

Change oil & filter.
Change T-case, front & rear differential gear lubes.
Full 12 qt flush transmission.
Lube propeller shafts yokes & spiders (6 points) Re-torque spiders.
Inspect drive belt and pulley's (bearings)
Service PCV, hoses and grommet.
Check all vacuum lines on air box.
Service air filter
Clean throttle body.
Clean MAF (disconnecting battery for 30 minutes)
Clean & grease battery post.
Re-torque valve (head) cover bolts. Stops most leaky covers.
Inspect spark plug tubes for oil leaks.
Clean & inspect spark plugs (don't change gap on used plugs)
Have fuel injectors cleaned, tested & rebuilt. (optional)

Pressure test radiator & gas cap.
Check all coolant hoses replace if swelling is observed.
Flush coolant & R&R heater T's.

De-rust and rust prevent body, door thresholds & undercarriage.
Wash, clay bar & wax.
Clean & condition leather.
Treat rubber, plastic & vinyl.
Clean carpet (dry shampoo)

Add a can of 44K to gas tank.

Service every 5k miles by the book and Inspect & repair leaks.

Drive for 1 million miles.

 

[Julian Stead]

The mountings and bushes that showed the most signs of wear at 170,000 when I changed to new rubber was rear control arms, engine mounts, front shock lower bushings and sway bar bushings. I would check all of these, the engine mounts need to be removed to access wear properly as the rubber seperates from the metal plate it sits on, with the weight of the engine and gearbox they look good in situ.

 

[2001LC]

The mountings and bushes that showed the most signs of wear at 170,000 when I changed to new rubber was rear control arms, engine mounts, front shock lower bushings and sway bar bushings. I would check all of these, the engine mounts need to be removed to access wear properly as the rubber seperates from the metal plate it sits on, with the weight of the engine and gearbox they look good in situ.

Forgot those, I'll add those to my list.

 

[HiFiGuy]

Thanks guys! That's quite a list, 2001LC. I will work my way down it. Couple questions. What is 44K? What is tech stream, ACH/tech stream?

 

[TheForger]

Thanks guys! That's quite a list, 2001LC. I will work my way down it. Couple questions. What is 44K? What is tech stream, ACH/tech stream?

44k is a fuel system cleaner. You don't have to use 44k any cleaner will work (I prefer STP b/c it's easier for me to find locally), it's used to clean your fuel injectors and let your engine run smoother & more efficiently.

Techstream is a multi-use diagnostic software that lets you control/monitor/adjust almost every possible thing in your truck. You can do just about anything from reprogramming the ECU to disabling the seat belt alarm (if you have one) and controlling what lights come on when you open a door or lock the truck - and much more. If you have AHC it will tell you the pressures on all four corners. Very helpful piece of software

 

[HiFiGuy]

Aha. Thanks. Techstream looks to be quite expensive! Almost $1500 for a scanner system?! Damn. As far as 44K, thanks for the info. I actually have some Liqui Moly 2007 Jectron Fuel Injection Cleaner, which I use on my other cars (BMWs) with some success, so I will probably go that route. Anyone in my area have a Techstream? I would like to rent it, if possible.

 

[mattafact]

Most here order techstream and the cable from amazon for ~$20.

 

[HiFiGuy]

Is the LC a 16 pin or 22 pin interface? Is it important to get the latest version of the software, like this one v10.30.029 which is $45 with cable, or is it fine to get the ones that are $15-20? Nevermind, I see the connector in another link, and can tell I need the 16 pin.

 

[2001LC]

AHC can also be set (via Tech stream) by Dealer or good 100 series shop during alignment.

 

[Greenbean]

Is there a good supplier for replacement rubber bushings for the rear upper, lower and panhard rod bushings?

I'm finding they are not available from Toyota and can get the Whiteline items but that means pounding out all the factory pressed in items. Again I don't mind but would like to stay rubber if possible.

Thanks,
GB