- Thread starter
- #61
Its all about time my friend. when I did not have the skill I had the time. now I have the skills and every piece of equipment but no f'in time.
The ARB to me right now is a itch I just cant scratch...
Kirk
High clearance 80 series rear bumper (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kirk
- Start date
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Its all about time my friend. when I did not have the skill I had the time. now I have the skills and every piece of equipment but no f'in time.
The ARB to me right now is a itch I just cant scratch...
Kirk
- Thread starter
- #64
Sean. All the exterior of the bumper is 3/16" thick "grade 80" steel. The tow hook points are 5/8" thick. I dont mind the weight on the back of my truck, I need it back there for balance.
No, I totally agree with you, 3/16" is definitely preferable.....just looked thinner than that. I didn't know how to broach the subject without sounding overly critical. I was actually wondering if 1/8" would hold up, but didn't wanna ask.
Sean
- Thread starter
- #66
1/8" would fine work if designed properly. It would require additional internal gussets for the hardcore user. ARB's work fine under moderate conditions and they are barely 1/8" What is your intended use???
Going to mix up a theraflu....
Kirk
Going to mix up a theraflu....
Kirk
- Thread starter
- #68
More Pics going to finish next week!
- Thread starter
- #69
More Pics
you got by two inches...
so did you mount to the body mount "bolt" with the mount in the bracket?
Interesting.
so did you mount to the body mount "bolt" with the mount in the bracket?
Interesting.
- Thread starter
- #71
Hi John,
See the piece of tubing tacked to the bumper. That is my mockup of the bushing. I chose not to use the stock bushing b/c I cut the frame off about 2" ahead of it. There will be3" dia x 1/2" poly pucks, one between the body and frame and one between the head of the bolt and the body. Inside the bumper are welded 1/2 x 13 nuts.
Kirk
- Thread starter
- #72
This shows better how the frame was chopped horizontally and vertically. I replaced the lost cross section of the frame on top where there is plenty of room.
I am no one really to give advice, but I think you should re-think just using bumpers for the body mounts.
At least that's how I read it. The 80's body moves a lot.
You may also want to consider putting in some more re-enforcement on the rear box section of the frame, as another x-member.
In the last kustom one I made, I cut off the cross member, and welded in a new one, and had a tire carrier off of a bumperette. The resulting re-stiffened frame section increased the chassis oscillation by a ton. The vibes from the tire carrier transmitted to the body and it was NOT pleasant.
j
At least that's how I read it. The 80's body moves a lot.
You may also want to consider putting in some more re-enforcement on the rear box section of the frame, as another x-member.
In the last kustom one I made, I cut off the cross member, and welded in a new one, and had a tire carrier off of a bumperette. The resulting re-stiffened frame section increased the chassis oscillation by a ton. The vibes from the tire carrier transmitted to the body and it was NOT pleasant.
j
- Thread starter
- #74
John
I am sandwiching 40 durometer black poly under and on top of the body mount bolts.
My goal is not noise reduction or resale its simply performance. If I was driving the family around town I would have taken a different design approach. With super swampers they should give one a notice that noise and ride quality are going to suck. The bumper itself is the biggest crossmember in the whole chassis .187 thick high strength steel. It is far stiffer than the factory one I cut off. I have it anchored to the frame with 1/2" plate and 16-1/2" grade 8 bolts. As far as I tire carrier goes I plan to never run one. If I was tubby explorer traveling the earth and needed the kitchen sink inside space of the 80 I would throw the spare on the roof first. I like the spare to be inside the truck b/c I have zero departure issues and I can half ass see whats behind.
The current design does not have any angle crossmembers. I plan to move the fuel tank to the back for better weight distribution and to make the rear link setup longer. I did however make provisions for extra centter mounting points if i need to add a angled member.
thanks
Kirk
kirk, looking sweet. noticed your exhaust ended up on the shop floor (again?) 
have you changed plans on how to route it? also, that has got to be one of the most time intensive bumper projects I've ever seen posted - so I guess you'll be making a production run this summer... 
have you changed plans on how to route it? also, that has got to be one of the most time intensive bumper projects I've ever seen posted - so I guess you'll be making a production run this summer...
dude, don't get me wrong, I am totally into what you are doing here. I was just shocked myself when I did what you are doing, then drove the vehicle 'round town.
It was 100% traceable back to the tire carrier. I was just letting you know it was a shocker for me to get THAT much flex out of the rear section of the 80 frame. I could literally bounce the carrier up and down, and start the body moving because I had stiffened the rear of the frame so much. It was like a big arse lever.
I have a big ole roller, and it strains at 16 gauge, (10 ga with the motor on) are you press forming your side curves?
It was 100% traceable back to the tire carrier. I was just letting you know it was a shocker for me to get THAT much flex out of the rear section of the 80 frame. I could literally bounce the carrier up and down, and start the body moving because I had stiffened the rear of the frame so much. It was like a big arse lever.
I have a big ole roller, and it strains at 16 gauge, (10 ga with the motor on) are you press forming your side curves?
- Thread starter
- #77
kirk, looking sweet. noticed your exhaust ended up on the shop floor (again?)
Hi Mike
The exhaust was out b/c I was doing some welding on the frame. It will look as before. I need to layout and plasma the side hole out.
This design is really not mass production friendly. the extent I cut my frame up most I bet are not willing to do. I forsee a wee less hardcore version in the future as a DIY kit, buy it at MAD4WD.com,maybe. thats a ways out long shot. I have so much boeing,mobility scooter,gas pump, work at my biz right now that I cant even think about l/c parts. Plus I reserve what you see as a hobby. this is all for fun. I respect the others on mud that are feeding there families selling l/c products.
Kirk
- Thread starter
- #78
Finished welded and now I am grinding / smoothing it out. Hope to have to powder asap.
very nice
if the cross member is needed your rear hatch doors will let you know-if they close all is good. But as John hinted there is little replacement for a welded crossmember. Even a simple piece 3x3 square tube. now if you weld the bumper on that is a diff story....
I like the 4x4 labs bumper but this thing looks to be a full 6 inches higher on the sides.
if the cross member is needed your rear hatch doors will let you know-if they close all is good. But as John hinted there is little replacement for a welded crossmember. Even a simple piece 3x3 square tube. now if you weld the bumper on that is a diff story....
I like the 4x4 labs bumper but this thing looks to be a full 6 inches higher on the sides.
Very nice.
High and tight.
When I did mine I cut out the cross member and removed the tire carrier from under. No problems.
Thats going to be nice.
High and tight.
When I did mine I cut out the cross member and removed the tire carrier from under. No problems.
Thats going to be nice.
