Builds Here we go again! 64 FJ40 Frame off Restomod (2 Viewers)

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Here's how it's set up on my 64...obviously needs some work. I can't vouch for correctness as PO riveted the mount bracket in

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Aaron, I'm pretty sure yours has been modified. Here's another picture of the door:

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How my 64 is, only pic I have at the moment...realized its a terrible pic! but same as the post above mine.

Went a took a couple to redeem my crappy first pic!

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John @pardion has a 60 he's restored in the fj25 section(project old fart). A lot of great detail and information on his build thread. I've had the privilege of seeing it in person. It's pretty much cruiser "Wikipedia". You just have to ignore the 2f he threw in that thing.
 
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The one occruiser posted is correct for all pre-67[pre-dashboard] models. I think I have one for sale in the FS section.

Sorry I didn't get back to you on the carb spacer. I don't have any right now.
 
Great pics and information. Just what I was looking for.
It's really a bad design I'm thinking. Those bars take up room in the glove box ?
I'll probably look into modding mine to accept the later style box door. As I have a couple of those laying around.

Thx again!

Any place else I can find a carb spacer?
 
John @pardion has a 64 he's restored in the fj25 section(project old fart). A lot of great detail and information on his build thread. I've had the privilege of seeing it in person. It's pretty much cruiser "Wikipedia". You just have to ignore the 2f he threw in that thing.
Thanks occruiser, "Project Old Fart" is a 1960 FJ25 Very similar to a 40 John
 
Great pics and information. Just what I was looking for.
It's really a bad design I'm thinking. Those bars take up room in the glove box ?
I'll probably look into modding mine to accept the later style box door. As I have a couple of those laying around.

Thx again!

Any place else I can find a carb spacer?

You are correct: it is a very inefficient design that compromises what and how you put things in the glovebox. BUT, it did hold the door flat when open, something you will have to accomplish with a cable if you retrofit a newer door. The older door wouldn't work with the lower dash pad [it drops down as it opens], which is why I believe Toyota changed it in the first place.

Keep in mind those kind of mods are what turn ordinary people into the much-maligned PO.:worms:

Carb spacer? Try a want ad I guess.:meh:
 
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Started Tearing Into The Rear Sill. Looks like a replacement is in order.
Lots of spot weld drilling and she peeled back.
:cheers:
 
Moving along...
Cut all the body mounts with my Sawzall in order to lift the rear of the tub. This is required to gain access to the welds on the underside of the tub where the rear sill is welded to the rear floor. I didn't want to just cut it off as the metal on the rear floor is in good shape, and I want to build it back as original as possible.
I did notice that the replacement sills are not the same as the one taken off this 64. They seem to match up more with later year rear sills. They have more surface to them covering more of the rear bed. Maybe 3 inches instead of the stock one or so inches.
No big deal, I actually prefer it.
Also I noticed this 64 has two rear door latches, one on each barn door securing it to the tub. I think I will modify it to equal what is found on later year models as it will make ingress and egress a bit easier.
I also pulled the hood and aprons last night. No busted bolts up front so far. Going to get the fenders and bib off tonight and try to get that rear sill taken care of.
 
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Moving along...
Cut all the body mounts with my Sawzall in order to lift the rear of the tub. This is required to gain access to the welds on the underside of the tub where the rear sill is welded to the rear floor. I didn't want to just cut ithe off as the metal on the rear floor is in good shape, and I want to build it back as original as possible.
I did notice that the replacement sills are not the same as the one taken off this 64. They seem to match up more with later year rear sills. As they have more surface to them covering more of the rear bed. Maybe 3 inches instead of the stock one or so inches.
No big deal, I actually prefer it.
Also I noticed this 64 has two rear door latches, one on each barn door securing it to the tub. I think I will modify it to equal what is found on later year models as it will make ingress and egress a bit easier.
I also pulled the good and aprons last night. No busted bolts up front so far. Going to get the fenders and bib off tonight and try to get that rear sill taken care of.

Ha! The 64 I parted out in '92 to build my swb45 had dual latch pins on it, but I haven't seen another one since.
 
Yep... Here's a pic of the tub side showing the dual pin holes. Didn't know it was a rare deal. It seems it would be a PITA to have to open the bi fold then reach in and pull a pin, then pull the handle, just to be able to open one door so you could place something back there. Guess that's why it didn't last long. :)
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Got some work done last night.
Pulled the front clip off. Only one fender mounting bolt broke, so I'm happy with that. Actually I'm happy that there have been very few busted bolts so far considering it's 50 year plus age.
Noticed a couple parts that I have never seen on a cruiser before. Must be the vintage. First was a a frontal shroud of some kind in front of the radiator. Then several shims behind the mounting points on the front fenders. These gave me an "aha" moment regarding getting tbe front clip aligned later. Also a reinforcment bar across the front radiator.
Also removed that front glass which was full of sealant.

Shims

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Frontal Shroud

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Front shot shows the shroud in place and the cross bar as well.

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Crossbar is stock too.
 
We used those same shims for lining up drive motors on pumps and blowers at work. Must be a universal thing.
 
I've been working on getting the firewall cleaned up and detaching everything to get the tub separatedfrom the chassis.

Used my jerry rigged tub lift. Works like a charm! :)

Hit it with a pressure washer after. Need to hit it a few more times with some degreaser.

Hope to have the bare rolling chassis to the sand blaster at the end of the week.
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Chassis made it to the blasters last Monday. Got started on detailing the engine. Installed new water pump from SOR. Installed new electronic dizzy from trollhole. Need to get a new starter, oil lines, spark plugs and wires.
Should be able to pick up the smaller items I dropped at the blasters. Valve cover, oil canister, air cleaner, and all the shiends etc this week. Once I get those back I'll prime and paint them up.
Anyhoo. Pics...
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Jeezus h cristo....

Spent 90 minutes just getting the transfer case drain plug removed. It was tighter than an SOB.

Used vise grips, pipe wrench, torch, breaker bars, then decided to just cut it off and try to drill it out.
Well... I guess the cutting did something, or maybe the 30 minutes of drilling into hardened steel and going only an eighth of an inch did something. Because I decided to give the vise grips and breaker bar one more try, and BOOM!

Victoty!!!!! Wine time for me..... :)

:cheers:
 
:popcorn:
 
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