There s your answer get some bumpstops
Help. Wrong Bilstein with shock towers.
- Thread starter BBQ BOY
- Start date
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Is your lift on the truck yet?
lol
I agree. I thought he wanted to retain the stock look and wanted it to be an around the town vehicle and do some trail but nothing extreme.
On the front where there was an issue with the drag link I'd just have cut the lower shock mount off and welded it further out.
I agree. I thought he wanted to retain the stock look and wanted it to be an around the town vehicle and do some trail but nothing extreme.
On the front where there was an issue with the drag link I'd just have cut the lower shock mount off and welded it further out.
This ain't rocket science...
1. Using the factory shock tower, measure distance between the two mounts fully compressed, we'll call this "x".
2. Using the factory shock tower, measure distance between the two mounts at full droop, we'll call this "y".
3. Using the factory shock tower, measure distance between the two mounts at ride height, we'll call this "z".
4. Buy a shock with a stroke length greater than, but as close as possible to y -x. We will call the fully compressed length of the new shock "L", and stroke length "S"
5. Cut off old shock tower
6. With the vehicle at ride height, mount new shock tower such that the distance between the lower and upper mounts is equal to L+(z-x) + 0.5*(S-(y-x)).
Voilà! - it should never bottom out and the shock won't limit droop.
Clear as mud????
1. Using the factory shock tower, measure distance between the two mounts fully compressed, we'll call this "x".
2. Using the factory shock tower, measure distance between the two mounts at full droop, we'll call this "y".
3. Using the factory shock tower, measure distance between the two mounts at ride height, we'll call this "z".
4. Buy a shock with a stroke length greater than, but as close as possible to y -x. We will call the fully compressed length of the new shock "L", and stroke length "S"
5. Cut off old shock tower
6. With the vehicle at ride height, mount new shock tower such that the distance between the lower and upper mounts is equal to L+(z-x) + 0.5*(S-(y-x)).
Voilà! - it should never bottom out and the shock won't limit droop.
Clear as mud????
- Thread starter
- #25
Yes it has.
yzftaco
Goofy-Goober
- Thread starter
- #27
I know right. Today should be a national holiday.
This ain't rocket science...
1. Using the factory shock tower, measure distance between the two mounts fully compressed, we'll call this "x".
2. Using the factory shock tower, measure distance between the two mounts at full droop, we'll call this "y".
3. Using the factory shock tower, measure distance between the two mounts at ride height, we'll call this "z".
4. Buy a shock with a stroke length greater than, but as close as possible to y -x. We will call the fully compressed length of the new shock "L", and stroke length "S"
5. Cut off old shock tower
6. With the vehicle at ride height, mount new shock tower such that the distance between the lower and upper mounts is equal to L+(z-x) + 0.5*(S-(y-x)).
Voilà! - it should never bottom out and the shock won't limit droop.
Clear as mud????
This needs to be in da FAQ's
This ain't rocket science...
1. Using the factory shock tower, measure distance between the two mounts fully compressed, we'll call this "x".
2. Using the factory shock tower, measure distance between the two mounts at full droop, we'll call this "y".
3. Using the factory shock tower, measure distance between the two mounts at ride height, we'll call this "z".
4. Buy a shock with a stroke length greater than, but as close as possible to y -x. We will call the fully compressed length of the new shock "L", and stroke length "S"
5. Cut off old shock tower
6. With the vehicle at ride height, mount new shock tower such that the distance between the lower and upper mounts is equal to L+(z-x) + 0.5*(S-(y-x)).
Voilà! - it should never bottom out and the shock won't limit droop.
Clear as mud????
I thought about this a bit more and one caveat is that for this to work perfectly, your replacement shock must be at the same angle relative to vertical, as the original shock. If you "lean" them much, more stroke length (huh, huh, he said stroke length) will result for the same amount of suspension travel.
Maybe I'm wrong but I think he was responding to you saying "Yes it has" instead of "Yes it is."
