Help. Wrong Bilstein with shock towers.

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I had my mechanic put Ford shock towers on my Cruiser and he installed the Bilstein 5125's part # BE5-5649-H5 and they don't work. If I were to flex the suspension then my shocks would bottom out around 4". here is the link of the 5125's. I need help with this ASAP.
Bilstein
 
I had my mechanic put Ford shock towers on my Cruiser and he installed the Bilstein 5125's part # BE5-5649-H5 and they don't work. If I were to flex the suspension then my shocks would bottom out around 4". here is the link of the 5125's. I need help with this ASAP.
Bilstein

Did you measure your extension and compression with the mounts in place before you ordered your shocks? My guess is no.
 
Yes we did. We flexed it and measured. I had a member on here help me but my mechanic says that they won't work.
 
Yes we did. We flexed it and measured. I had a member on here help me but my mechanic says that they won't work.

Did he put the Ford mounts in a spot that won't work and is blaming the shocks or did someone measure wrong? If you measured with the mounts in place and ordered the right size shock I don't see how they won't work.

Your part number is not on the Web site.
 
That may be where we messed up. We didn't have the Ford towers in yet. The fellow who helped me has done this before. We had the schematic sheet and everything.
 
It's on there. 10th one down. BE5-6249-H5
 
Look at the part number you put in your first post, you typoed. I am running the BE5-6249-H5s with Ford towers SOA and they are perfect. Are you SUA?
Yes. I am SUA.
 
Sorry on the typo. What can I say. I am a drunk. JK.
 
Too long? If I flex the suspension now with thos shocks then I will bottom out after only flexing around 4". Wouldn't I need longer shocks?
 
Oh ok. I think I know what you are getting at.
 
Was there a reason you went with the Ford towers? It's just not nessessary for what your doing with the vehicle and it's intended purpose.

Your welcome to call me any time and ask advice. I've been doing this for a while and can help you from making mistakes. It's whole lot easier through the phone. PM me and I'll give you my number.

Looking forward to meeting you.
 
Marshall I suggested going to the Ford Towers to clear his draglink mainly. It was sleeved and bent and he wanted to use the larger diam. body Bilsteins. For $40 he would easily solve that issue and be setup for his "SOA" later that we all know he is going to "want" to do.

He is showing 4.5"'s of shock rod for compression as the vehicle sits at level ground. The most that I measured this susp. to comp. was about 3.25". I added an inch for extra weight or for extra comp. that you just can't get out of using a lift to measure. This leaves him with 7.5"'s of droop. It is better in my experience to error on the side of caution with comp. as opposed to droop because you can extend your bumpstops to save your shocks when you get airbourne, but no one wants to have to put limiting straps on to save them from extending.

He has a 12" travel shock mounted with 1/3 of the shock travel showing at level ground. I don't understand how anyone could say that is not a good setup.

Yes a 10" shock with stock mounts would have worked as well, but it might have hit the draglink. And would have been close to his droop max if the springs ever did get really broken in. This setup can handle the best that that HFS SUA susp. can throw at it.

Again this is my opponion, and he nor his mechanic knew what to do. I am sure if you ask 10k people on mud what to do, you will get atleast 1k answers.

Jeremy
 
Marshall I suggested going to the Ford Towers to clear his draglink mainly. It was sleeved and bent and he wanted to use the larger diam. body Bilsteins. For $40 he would easily solve that issue and be setup for his "SOA" later that we all know he is going to "want" to do.

He is showing 4.5"'s of shock rod for compression as the vehicle sits at level ground. The most that I measured this susp. to comp. was about 3.25". I added an inch for extra weight or for extra comp. that you just can't get out of using a lift to measure. This leaves him with 7.5"'s of droop. It is better in my experience to error on the side of caution with comp. as opposed to droop because you can extend your bumpstops to save your shocks when you get airbourne, but no one wants to have to put limiting straps on to save them from extending.

He has a 12" travel shock mounted with 1/3 of the shock travel showing at level ground. I don't understand how anyone could say that is not a good setup.

Yes a 10" shock with stock mounts would have worked as well, but it might have hit the draglink. And would have been close to his droop max if the springs ever did get really broken in. This setup can handle the best that that HFS SUA susp. can throw at it.

Again this is my opponion, and he nor his mechanic knew what to do. I am sure if you ask 10k people on mud what to do, you will get atleast 1k answers.

Jeremy

You have been a honest good guy so I will take your word for it. Everyone onhere should stive to be like Jeremy(Belmont). He has put himself out a few times to help a stranger(me).
 
That sounds pretty good to me to. 5 or 5.5" or 6" might be better but you lose droop. I would get some sort of bump stop scenario and take it from there. The flex style measurement is nice / good additional info but where it sits from level ground is first and most important. It's always hard to be able to talk yourself into going with a shorter shock but sometimes it's necessary. The good news is if/when he goes SOA he can use those in the rear and get some 14's for up front if he wants lots of travel.

Cheers,
Andre
 

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