Help with tuning 1HD-T by AFR (1 Viewer)

[Dougal]

My MTX-L reads to 100:1. I had to reprogram the range to show this but that was an advertised feature: MTX-L PLUS: Digital Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Kit (3 Ft.) - https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/mtx-l-plus-digital-wideband-air-fuel-ratio-gauge-kit-3-ft.html
Now it says 22:1 max but no mention of being able to change it. An email to them should clear that up.

Once you have an A/F gauge you don't need an EGT gauge.

 

[veiloctane]

this guy says 17:1 AFR is safe




but I think it's a combination and balancing act with of course supported mods,

can you run 20psi and under 1350F EGT and 17:1 AFR and call it safe?

 

[mudgudgeon]

this guy says 17:1 AFR is safe




but I think it's a combination and balancing act with of course supported mods,

can you run 20psi and under 1350F EGT and 17:1 AFR and call it safe?

He's focused on only one part of an equation.

I think he alluded to tuning being about a combination of things. It's not as simple as saying "X" AFR is safe or not.

There's a load of factors that contribute
What's modified to support an increase in power? Or is everything stock standard?

I can think of about 20 things straight away.

He kept referring to a chip supplier advertising 100% increase in output on a stock engine.
Anyone who believes that, is clueless, uninformed or naive or all of the above.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I will say Berrima diesel have a solid reputation in Australia, have done for a long long time.
They are a go to when no-one can solve a problem with anything diesel related.

I think they are old school and conservative, and stick with what they've known for decades.

Diesel performance options have improved and is big business.
There's operators who have progressed the options, there's businesses who are on the gravy train, and those who'll play it safe.

Do your homework and understand your options

 

[veiloctane]

I will say Berrima diesel have a solid reputation in Australia, have done for a long long time.
They are a go to when no-one can solve a problem with anything diesel related.

I think they are old school and conservative, and stick with what they've known for decades.

Diesel performance options have improved and is big business.
There's operators who have progressed the options, there's businesses who are on the gravy train, and those who'll play it safe.

Do your homework and understand your options

Thanks for this info. I’ll be reading the tuning guide again.

 

[KiwiDingo]

AFR is just a number and on its on means very little. I give more weighting to pre-turbo EGT numbers than I do AFR. I've had some major differences in pre-turbo EGT after setup changes with both running identical AFR.

 

[veiloctane]

Hi,

Have HDJ80 for 8 years looked after like an only child. Have monitored EGT readings over past six years.

Had a pump rebuild a while back with no 'on car' tuning so it's stock. CompAred to previous tunes it is gutless but I want to do it myself this time. Have read everything I can get my hands on. It's got nothing off the line. Ok once ~5psi boost comes in but still slow to what it can be.

Has 3inch exhaust and I have rotated aneroid pin to maximum profile, but it wasn't far off this position. Off boost screw was in maximum when it came back from pump rebuild. Have left star wheel for interim.

AFR is above 99:1 at idle and only 24:1 at full load I.e. Fifth or 4th gear WOT up hill 100km/h. I have seen a quick dip towards 21 from memory for a split Devine at 3000rpm in 3rd.

Running stock 11psi at manifold.

Pyro is post turbo. I drive to keep it below 500 with alarm on 550 and off 500. It's a heavy rig, but I usually see ~400 -450 at 100km/h on flat in 30 degree weather. Hit the alarm overtaking and up hills easily - probably worse on the lean tune this power tune!

Want to aim for 20:1 to begin with. My theory is to get this reading is to set main screw 1/4 turn in ir about 1.5cc I think and go from there. Leave aneroid adjustment to end to eliminate smoke or add more low boost fuel if smoke allows.

Generally high EGT for me or 'high risk driving' is at 100km/h so I tend to think AFR and EGT at 4th/5th 2200 - 3200 is important.

Main two questions:

1) what rpm/gear is best for AFR test?
2) will 1/4 turn be good starting point?

I KNOW this engine can make great power. Have experienced it. Just want it back safely and bit happy with answers it questions Bout EGT Abe AFR from 'tuners' I have called.

Injectors Are in good order - 80 000km since reco. Good fuel and filters always used.

Any update on your tune???

 

[veiloctane]

Any update on your tune???

I myself going down this rabbit hole

Injection pump is slightly advanced just before you hear ticking from the pump (tuned by ear) I did adjust using the toyota tool and denco diesel specifications but it didnt feel right as was way to smokey at startup/idle. I also have ACSD removed.


Full boost ~17psi
AFR 19:1
Lambda 1.31
EGTs 1100F

Turbo is kinguawa TD06SL2-18G 8cm 6+6Billet and a 10Blade STS (first one failed and I upgraded from a 9blade STS RMA process was easy!) I have the Actuator wastegate Yellow spring installed 1.0 Bar with the default 2Turn/1.5mm preload

Boost comes on around 1500rpm.

I may dial up the fuel a bit but i need to do some long mountain passes to see if egts will climb past 1250F im trying to keep egts low

Supported mods:
Trundles fuel pin and boost cap
Highflow drop in air filter AFE Part# 10-10008
PEC Australia Front mount intercooler
3" Turboback Stainless Exhaust

been messing around with the VE pump starwheel, I'm pretty close to where I want it pin traveles up to the point of fuel cutoff just about 3mm till the end. marked with sharpie watching the pin travel via scratch mark on fuel pin.

 

[nz1HDThdj81]

I myself going down this rabbit hole

Injection pump is slightly advanced just before you hear ticking from the pump (tuned by ear) I did adjust using the toyota tool and denco diesel specifications but it didnt feel right as was way to smokey at startup/idle. I also have ACSD removed.


Full boost ~17psi
AFR 19:1
Lambda 1.31
EGTs 1100F

Turbo is kinguawa TD06SL2-18G 8cm 6+6Billet and a 10Blade STS (first one failed and I upgraded from a 9blade STS RMA process was easy!) I have the Actuator wastegate Yellow spring installed 1.0 Bar with the default 2Turn/1.5mm preload

Boost comes on around 1500rpm.

I may dial up the fuel a bit but i need to do some long mountain passes to see if egts will climb past 1250F im trying to keep egts low

Supported mods:
Trundles fuel pin and boost cap
Highflow drop in air filter AFE Part# 10-10008
PEC Australia Front mount intercooler
3" Turboback Stainless Exhaust

been messing around with the VE pump starwheel, I'm pretty close to where I want it pin traveles up to the point of fuel cutoff just about 3mm till the end. marked with sharpie watching the pin travel via scratch mark on fuel pin.

My injector pump is only advanced within the factory range. I think .33 off memory using Toyota tool. Super smokey on idle, once warm no smoke. Got to take that into count.

What did you notice with the trundles boost cap and android pin?

I'm running:
Standard fuel pump
Trundles intake 4"
Safari snorkel
21/2" intercooler piping and intercooler all custom to fit aircon.
3" stainless exhaust turbo back.
Trundles catch can. Plumbed into turbo inlet.

My power is great once on boost but getting it there is dreadfull. I have to drop a gear at 100 to get any acceleration.

 

[veiloctane]

My injector pump is only advanced within the factory range. I think .33 off memory using Toyota tool. Super smokey on idle, once warm no smoke. Got to take that into count.

What did you notice with the trundles boost cap and android pin?

I'm running:
Standard fuel pump
Trundles intake 4"
Safari snorkel
21/2" intercooler piping and intercooler all custom to fit aircon.
3" stainless exhaust turbo back.
Trundles catch can. Plumbed into turbo inlet.

My power is great once on boost but getting it there is dreadfull. I have to drop a gear at 100 to get any acceleration.

ok mine has light haze when first startup but no where as smokey as it once was verry light haze of white smoke. yes as it warms up its almost not noticeable!


i dont have a good comparison from my old factory pin vs the trundles pin. as the previous owner from japan has ground down half the pin and its been running on full fuel nomatter what rolling coal everywhere.

with the trundles fuel pin and boost cap theres a wider range of fuel delivery and it is a gradual slope. I did keep the included spacer on the pin.

I do have to say I have smoother acceleration and minimal smoke but boost comes on hard after 1500RPM

 

[mudgudgeon]

8cm

Boost comes on around 1500rpm.

A 7cm turbine housing would bring boost on earlier.

8cm is the factory turbine housing size for 1HD-T

 

[veiloctane]

A 7cm turbine housing would bring boost on earlier.

8cm is the factory turbine housing size for 1HD-T

Yeah I kinda like the way it is. I think I can dial more fuel because egts are still low.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Yeah I kinda like the way it is. I think I can dial more fuel because egts are still low.

That's the point of the smaller turbine, it'll spool sooner with less fuel.
More usable torque at lower RPM gives you a broader power band.

But, if you like it as is, leave it. Everything is compromise

 

[veiloctane]

mornings are getting much colder here. I'm feeling more power at lower boost levels... I think its the air density

 

[nz1HDThdj81]

A 7cm turbine housing would bring boost on earlier.

8cm is the factory turbine housing size for 1HD-T

I have a 7cm housing and 6+6 (12) blade compressor wheel. It makes 21psi at 2500 rpm. It may make around 5psi at 1500. Not that flash. I wish I made 21psi at 2000rpm.

 

[mudgudgeon]

mornings are getting much colder here. I'm feeling more power at lower boost levels... I think its the air density

Definitely. Mine was noticeably different when temp was close to freezing

 

[veiloctane]

I have a 7cm housing and 6+6 (12) blade compressor wheel. It makes 21psi at 2500 rpm. It may make around 5psi at 1500. Not that flash. I wish I made 21psi at 2000rpm.

according to this data...this is interesting info its so close 7cm to 8cm housing

1500rpm im already at 8-10psi

I think altitude and air density is huge factor here

I'm at 1045 m (3428 ft)

seems kinda backward as the air is denser in new Zeland You should be building more boost with that 7cm vs as to where I am... kinda confused

only few things different probably is my ve pump tuneing fuel pin and boost cap my stock airbox and safari snorkle vs your 4" intake.

but it's probably harder for me to reach 21PSI due to my high altitude???

 

[nz1HDThdj81]

according to this data...this is interesting info its so close 7cm to 8cm housing

1500rpm im already at 8-10psi

I think altitude and air density is huge factor here

I'm at 1045 m (3428 ft)

seems kinda backward as the air is denser in new Zeland You should be building more boost with that 7cm vs as to where I am... kinda confused

only few things different probably is my ve pump tuneing fuel pin and boost cap my stock airbox and safari snorkle vs your 4" intake.

but it's probably harder for me to reach 21PSI due to my high altitude???

I understand you went through the process of replacing your turbo after you found a cracked compressor housing?

What changes did you notice after you put the new turbo on. I thought that was the only reason you couldn't get it to pump out enough boost.

The altitude makes it harder for turbos to build boost but there are other factors as you say like humidity which newzealand operates between idk 70-100% all the time. How cold the air is, where i am it maxes out at 30deg c in summer. Winter time is like 15 average.

The replacement turbo you received must have come with a boost spring. I looked at an old invoice showing me I brought a 1.5bar spring and mashed another 1.5bar spring in there as I worked out I was loosing boost due to the pressure from the turbo assisting the wastegate which overcame the single 1.5bar spring. Driven performance I paid $34 BTW.

I'd still love to put mine on a dyno, it's been running a couple of years with this tune and I have out up with it as once it's on boost it's away, getting it there is another story.

 

[veiloctane]

I understand you went through the process of replacing your turbo after you found a cracked compressor housing?

What changes did you notice after you put the new turbo on. I thought that was the only reason you couldn't get it to pump out enough boost.

The altitude makes it harder for turbos to build boost but there are other factors as you say like humidity which newzealand operates between idk 70-100% all the time. How cold the air is, where i am it maxes out at 30deg c in summer. Winter time is like 15 average.

The replacement turbo you received must have come with a boost spring. I looked at an old invoice showing me I brought a 1.5bar spring and mashed another 1.5bar spring in there as I worked out I was loosing boost due to the pressure from the turbo assisting the wastegate which overcame the single 1.5bar spring. Driven performance I paid $34 BTW.

I'd still love to put mine on a dyno, it's been running a couple of years with this tune and I have out up with it as once it's on boost it's away, getting it there is another story.

oops, my bad the turbo came with the 1.0 Bar spring yellow.

yes, you right looking at my old thread I had a crack in the housing and I couldn't build boost past 18psi using silver spring 2.0Bar.

I've identified a few factors why I can't build boost
1. crack in housing
2. air filter restriction

so new turbo is in I went down to the Red Spring and I'm making 16-17psi now.

I checked I have the red spring in there now 1.7 Bar RED set with the default preload set 2 turn/1.5mm

I do have a 2 Bar spring Silver I can try next that is the heaviest spring I have to try next I guess if it's not enough to reach 20+psi I could start doubling up the springs just like what you did. I could also pull the hose on the wastegate and see if that does bring me up past 20 but that method seems kinda risky

I did buy a box of springs that goes from 0.5 to 2.0 Bar just to experiment with

but could more fuel also bring up boost pressures?
I found your post here saying you had to keep feeding the fuel screw to reach 21PSI

This is my next move too since EGTs still low

1hdt Kinugawa TD05-18G, can't reach 20psi

ill have to do some testing and playing around with fuel but went with the Red spring in mine (1.7Bar) Another thing to note is that the drain tube is kinda small that comes with the kit so you will have to adapt it to 24mm/1" barb so it fits snug around the factory drain rubber tube. you will...

forum.ih8mud.com

it could also be that Kinugawa spring rates are out of wack. 1.7 Bar = 24.6 PSI

I would think with the red spring installed it wastegate should open at 1.5 Bar according to the chart

 

[nz1HDThdj81]

oops, my bad the turbo came with the 1.0 Bar spring yellow.

yes, you right looking at my old thread I had a crack in the housing and I couldn't build boost past 18psi using silver spring 2.0Bar.

I've identified a few factors why I can't build boost
1. crack in housing
2. air filter restriction

so new turbo is in I went down to the Red Spring and I'm making 16-17psi now.

I checked I have the red spring in there now 1.7 Bar RED set with the default preload set 2 turn/1.5mm

I do have a 2 Bar spring Silver I can try next that is the heaviest spring I have to try next I guess if it's not enough to reach 20+psi I could start doubling up the springs just like what you did. I could also pull the hose on the wastegate and see if that does bring me up past 20 but that method seems kinda risky

I did buy a box of springs that goes from 0.5 to 2.0 Bar just to experiment with

but could more fuel also bring up boost pressures?
I found your post here saying you had to keep feeding the fuel screw to reach 21PSI

This is my next move too since EGTs still low

1hdt Kinugawa TD05-18G, can't reach 20psi

ill have to do some testing and playing around with fuel but went with the Red spring in mine (1.7Bar) Another thing to note is that the drain tube is kinda small that comes with the kit so you will have to adapt it to 24mm/1" barb so it fits snug around the factory drain rubber tube. you will...

forum.ih8mud.com

it could also be that Kinugawa spring rates are out of wack. 1.7 Bar = 24.6 PSI

I would think with the red spring installed it wastegate should open at 1.5 Bar according to the chart
View attachment 3454846

So instead of relying on the internal wastegate, I made up my mind that the kinugawa turbo wasn't going to give me any additional boost that I couldn't use. Basically I kept adding fuel until I was happy with the egt temp. As I was adding fuel as a tradeoff I got more boost like you say. A little advance on the timing but within factory parameters.