help with support underneath hood?

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swelltimes

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Aug 9, 2012
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Haven't been able to find any threads / write ups pertaining to the metal support that goes along the centerline of the underside of the hood.

Aside from the welds at the front and the back of the hood, is that center piece anchored to the hood in any other spots? If so, is there some sort of adhesive used?

Thanks!
 
Year? Pics? Some hoods were two peice welded together, some were one piece stamped.
 
Not sure if it is used as an adhesive for bonding center support to outer skin or used as a sound deadener but there are dabs of a substance between the two. My guess is it is more of a sound deadener measure.
 
It has a short 90° bend and goes thru a hole in the center "seam" with a washer and maybe a cotter pin (edit: it looks like a snap ring type). The other end I just rest on the valve cover.
 
20220305_151112.jpg
 
Long ago pic of when I first got my 6/77--all original except a replacement 79 engine after the nephews blew it trying to go 85 mph down a Montana mountain--but it does show the underside of the stamped hood - Spot welded at the seems forward and rear-some kind of goop along the centerline connecting the brace to the hood(still viable)

GBS_car1.jpg
 
Long ago pic of when I first got my 6/77--all original except a replacement 79 engine after the nephews blew it trying to go 85 mph down a Montana mountain--but it does show the underside of the stamped hood - Spot welded at the seems forward and rear-some kind of goop along the centerline connecting the brace to the hood(still viable)
Super helpful! Thanks!
 
OP, are you interested in the prop rod or the hood itself?
 
There are a couple different lengths of that center support rod for the split hood. I think the earlier hoods on the trucks with the W/S washer nozzles on the W/S frame had the longer rod. See post 17 here:

 
Actually that end is supposed to go in a round hole on the top edge of the bib. Too low to allow any real access under the hood but that where it goes. I generally just rest the hood against the hard top. If windy be sure secure it do doesn't come down on your head.
Correct, but yes since it sits so low there I put the rod somewhere on the engine, and yes resting back on the WS works....if done gently ;)
 
The best picture I could find showing the adhesive/deadener blobs.

underhood.jpg


They are in a few places between the front and back of the hood.

By the look of your pictures it appears you had an underhood fire. That could have caused the hood to stretch and increase the gap.
 
I Recently stripped my hood, and the adhesive had separated from the sheet metal. I thought about getting seam sealer, which might be correct, but it wasn't handy. Then I thought, 3m 5200 adhesive, but couldn't find a small tube, so I found a different marine adhesive. I'm not sure 5200 is right, but it's like the ultimate glue. I figured the stk adhesive gave up a while ago so anything is better than nothing. Time will tell.
 
The best picture I could find showing the adhesive/deadener blobs.

View attachment 2950757

They are in a few places between the front and back of the hood.

By the look of your pictures it appears you had an underhood fire. That could have caused the hood to stretch and increase the gap.
Thanks for that pic and info - helpful stuff.

The underside of the hood does look like it had a fire, but that dark discoloration is just a rust inhibitor to prevent flash rusting after we stripped it down to metal.
 
How did you strip the hood? My hood didnt have as much gap as yours. There was one spot where it was fairly significant though. Attached is a pic of my hood after the glue dryed. I pressed down on the sheet metal to create a gap, so I could apply the adhesive, then added weight along the rib to dry.
20211231_112016.jpg
 
How did you strip the hood? My hood didnt have as much gap as yours. There was one spot where it was fairly significant though. Attached is a pic of my hood after the glue dryed. I pressed down on the sheet metal to create a gap, so I could apply the adhesive, then added weight along the rib to dry.
Damn, that hood is cleeeean! Sand blasted?

We stripped this hood down with the usual suspects: abrasive wheels on grinders, and I did use an Eastwood SCT stripping tool to tackle the top of the hood.

Through the process of stripping the hood, it's become quite clear that the hood took some serious abuse at the hands of a previous owner. The underside of the hood, in place, looks like it was peened with a .20 gauge. The top of the hood had Bondo over .25 inches thick in places, and there's a spot on the hood (~12" in diameter) that "pops" in and out. As in, I can push that spot from under the hood, and it pops up and stays raised on the top of the hood. Vice versa if I push from the top. This spot is just to the side of the hood channel.

Some pics, with my old man grinding away.

IMG_5658 Medium.jpeg
IMG_5657 Medium.jpeg
IMG_5567 3 Medium.jpeg
IMG_5604 Medium.jpeg
 
Get it all cleaned and ready, leave the ends clean ready to weld, make sure its straight, test fit, mark it along underside of hood, then take both pieces to a local windshield replacement/glass shop and have them squirt some hot urethane beads right down where you marked it and be carefull, just the right amount, it aint like caulk, the squeeze out will stay where it is, thats why you see it in the factory pics, set the support rib and sqeuuze it down on the urethane by hand, it cools sorta fast so push it to where you want it pretty quick and put the hood skin on the winshield rack upside down so once you have pressed the support in you can look from underneath and make sure the skin is straight, use to large vise grip C clamps to lock the ends down where they will get welded and let rest for awhile. The nice thing is that the bead of urethane will form to that support and the cure.
 

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