Help with front shock bolt (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 11, 2019
Threads
13
Messages
36
Location
St Louis MO
Im having a hell of a time getting the top nut off the front shock. I tried a vice grip first and that was a fail. The top flat part broke off. I was afraid to heat it up because there is a rubber hose behind there. Someone else suggested beating it with a hammer until it breaks but that is not working either. My only other idea is to use a cut off wheel but im not sure if thats the best idea. Any suggestions??
 
If you aren’t reusing it, cut it. I had to cut one of my rears out but the fronts didn’t give me any trouble.

Alternatively, soak in penetrating oil.

What’s your heat source?
 
I had to cut mine off the front - original shocks @ 220k. Just use a thin cutoff wheel and take the whole nut/stud off on the top side of the shock mount. It will drop down after that.
 
Last edited:
I finally got it by using channel locks. I was scared for a while i wasnt going to be able to get it.

1564327521233348926341749327577.jpg
 
I bought it out of knoxville tn. The guy said they rarely get snow so it has basically zero rust. It had some issues but thats one of the main reasons i bought it.
 
More interesting developments on what i am now calling project nightmare.

I bought new shocks and sway bar links to get rid of the front clunk. I looked at the passenger side stabilizer bushing and it seemed to be in good shape so i skipped ordering those. Well it turns out i should of inspected the drivers side one too because it is completely gone! It needed shocks and links anyway so im not completely pissed but it sucks that now i wont have the bushings until tuesday. Is there any harm in letting the suspension hang for 2 days or should i jack it up and support it?

Also i found this connector disconnected that y's off from the o2 sensor. Im hoping it is for diagnostic purposes. Any input on that?

20190728_110017_HDR.jpg
 
It won't hurt anything to leave the LC jacked with the suspension unloaded. Vehicles stay on big lifts in specialty shops for a lot longer than that sometimes, depending on what's being worked on.

As far as the two-pin connected in your pic, I'm not familiar with that one, and couldn't quickly identify it on the wiring schematic (although I really just glanced at it.) Hopefully, this bump will attract some comments from someone else who knows.
 
There are many bolt holes, wire housing blocks and such throughout the 100 series not used. The plate-from is a global one with many variation depending on configuration for a particular market..
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom