Help with 3-link on '99 4-Runner (1 Viewer)

JLHEEPETR · Mar 22, 2010

Thanks dragr1. I was wondering if you'd seen the finished product. I took the truck to the local Les Schwab today and they balanced the four tires on the truck and did a complete alignment. I honestly thought it handled well before. I came up very close to square but my castor and camber was way off. I was shooting for about 4.5 degrees castor and turned up -.8 degrees negative. After that was adjusted the camber problem is supposed to be fixed. Toe was to .125" toe-in. The truck drives like a dream now.....except for that body roll.

Also I tore up part of my rear inner fender due to the fact I have still not built bumpstops for the rear or done any trimming. It's time to go back to work and get this thing finished up. I think I've found a VSS for the transfercase and need to get the 4x4 wiring done so I'll have push button 4x4 again. :cheers:

Lil' runnah · Mar 26, 2010

What are your thoughts for the body roll? I've been doing some research I'm going to run 300lb coils over 350lb coils. Sbechtold runs this combo on his FJ SAS and seems to have really good on-road results and it still flexes out nice off road. ...just a thought. What's the numbers on your coilovers?
Are you running a sway bar anywhere?

JLHEEPETR · Mar 27, 2010

I am running 150/250 at all corners. I think the body roll would be perfectly managable with a set of sway bars. I'm planning to run something similar to the Currie anti-rock but won't be getting one before the moab trip. I really couldn't say but 300/350 seems far to stiff to me. At 800# of sprung weight on a corner that's only about 5" of compression at ride height. Given the springs will set (sag) you might see 6"+. That still leaves a lot of uptravel for a set up where 5" of uptravel is challenging.

JLHEEPETR · Mar 28, 2010

I got started with the body trimming today. This is the little rock that first mangled my rear pinch weld.

The Heepetr with the rear bumper removed.

Here's the rear pinch weld after backing off. It was a good start to see what needed trimming.

JLHEEPETR · Mar 28, 2010

The tire was also hitting the rear bumper side guards. This picture is after removal.

And this is with the sides 2" shorter. My buddy Jerry cut and shortened it for me while I worked on the fenders. Thanks Jerry.

This is the rear fender afer cutting the flares and body. I got to get some sheet metal and fill it in now.

JLHEEPETR · Mar 28, 2010

This is the front left fender after trimming. Once I got the plastic skirting out of the way I found I had a little room to work with.

On the passenger side the wiper fluid resevoir was in the way so it got trimmed off on the corner and patched back up with some rubber/plastic adhesive and 1/8" neoprene. Once it's cured I'll go ahead and paint it black so it blends in. Also I swapped the pump position and wiring so I'd still have front wiper spray...No real need for the rear window washer....

Lil' runnah · Mar 31, 2010

JLHEEPETR said:
I am running 150/250 at all corners. I think the body roll would be perfectly managable with a set of sway bars. I'm planning to run something similar to the Currie anti-rock but won't be getting one before the moab trip. I really couldn't say but 300/350 seems far to stiff to me. At 800# of sprung weight on a corner that's only about 5" of compression at ride height. Given the springs will set (sag) you might see 6"+. That still leaves a lot of uptravel for a set up where 5" of uptravel is challenging.

Gotcha, I understand your math. I'm a bit heavier, I'm presuming around 5500lbs when she's done. Looks like you've done your homework, when doing the math for spring rates, I've always thought you should add a bit (user preferrence) to account for one side pushing the other down and the extra forces from off camber, nose high, and low, ...over the what the truck sees on flat and level ground. Thats the great thing about CO's, it's easy to play around with spring combos until you get it just how you like. If you run a front swaybar, please post details, I'd like to do the same but haven't really figured the best way to do it yet.

Your truck looks looks sweet, the flex is just awesome. I saw the 50" for picking up the front, have you lifted the rear with the forklift?

nice work dude!

JLHEEPETR · Apr 2, 2010

Here's a couple pictures of the rear wheel fenders finished. I patterned the pieces from 18 gauge steel and welded them in. Then a little STR sealant and paint.

Runnah, here's some shots with the forklift at the back. It's almost the exact same as the front with 50" under the center of the tire. I still have not done the rear bump stops but they'll probably come this weekend. I think I'll get a little more out of it with the stops installed.

JLHEEPETR · Apr 2, 2010

Runnah, talking spring rates I really think you push to have your truck weighed before ordering. 1300# seems like a lot even if your roof and glass are intact. With myself and an occupant my rig came in right about 4200# total and that's with the bumpers, sliders, winch, etc.. In the end though it's going to come down to what you want to do with it. Most of the places I really want to wheel are far enough away that I don't mind it making the trip on a trailer.

Lil' runnah · Apr 2, 2010

damn! that rear 4 link is bad! I know mine won't flex that much. Very nice. I actually went back through your thread and saw it there too.

I'm pretty sure on my weight numbers. I will weigh it when it's done though. Again, I'm basing some of my info now on lessons from Sol's FJ, Wyatt's Tacoma and from seeing first hand how Tim's truck drives. His is very similar to mine. We get more weight I think from the V8 too and both my bumpers are pretty heavy, plus the 4th is just heavier anyway. My damn front ProRock 60 has to be all of 450-500 lbs. That sonof abitch is HEAVY! anyway, I'll be watching how your final product looks. Very impressive! Hopefully we'll see you when we head back out west next year. :cheers:

D

JLHEEPETR · Apr 2, 2010

I don't know why I keep forgeting your build is a 4th Gen. :idea:

I'm sure it'll turn out awesome. I'd love to run into you guys again, the three runners together would be bada$$. :cheers:

buffethat@comcast.ne · Apr 7, 2010

Joe,
That thing is looking sweet man! I can't wait to see it in person. When are you arriving in Moab? We got a spot picked out so we should be good to go.

Can't wait to wheel some with ya again.

JLHEEPETR · Apr 8, 2010

Thanks Tom! I'll should be pulling in Sunday evening, probably 6:00 or so. I can't wait to get this truck out for some real wheeling. Excited to wheel with you too, maybe this year my junk won't break. :hillbilly:

coldtaco · Apr 10, 2010

Found this thread today. Nice work

I really like your mud flap idea. Was wondering if you could get a picture of the coil overs in the normal ride height position from the side without the tire? Trying to get my coil overs brackets installed and trying to figure out how to install the coil overs as far as the bottom mounts and angle of the bolts? Hope this makes sense. It looks like your coil overs are positioned pretty close to how mine would be at full droop.

JLHEEPETR · Apr 11, 2010

coldtaco, are you talking about the front or rear. Let me know, I'd be happy to take some pictures.

I finished the rear bump stops and fenders yesterday. I also mounted two ammo cans in the bed for storage of the recovery gear. I'll be taking it in the woods today to shoot some clay pigeons. Pics to follow.

coldtaco · Apr 11, 2010

Sorry about that. I was talking about the fronts, though the rears would work also for future refrence.

mmml4 · Apr 18, 2010

JLHEEPETR said:
Back at it again tonight. Here's another picture for you mmml4. I took this one looking forward with a flash.
View attachment 390261

How much weld did you get on the upper bracket at the frame? I am having a hell of a time getting the mig torch in there the way I want to.
Thanks

JLHEEPETR · Apr 19, 2010

Sorry I havn't gotten back. Been pretty busy with work.

Coldtaco I still havn't gotten your pictures. I plan to.

Mmml4, the inside frame brackets are difficult to fully weld on the upper portion. Plenty of heat and patience..... and booger welds.

I have gotten a little more done on the truck. Less than a week to Moab and the pressures on.

JLHEEPETR · Apr 19, 2010

Here's the front portion of the inner fender I needed to patch in.

I originally started with sheet metal but switched to something I know a little better and used rubber sheeting and STR.

I also finished the rear bump stops. Instead of redoing the upper part I welded these risers to the lower control arm flats. At full stuff I'm not using about 3" of the shock shaft but there is no more room for tire.