Help - What is this piece? (6 Viewers)

[Grant LX470]

Hello, I have a 2004 LX470 with around 170k miles. It recently had an engine swap, and has been dying when the steering wheel is turned when hot. Apparently this bolt looking piece (attached picture) is broken and is leading to a vacuum issue. The mechanic I talked to sprayed brake cleaner at the piece and it impacted how the engine was running (leading to his diagnosis).

I am hoping to learn:
1. What is this piece?
2. What does it do?
3. How can I fix it?

I don't know much about automotive stuff, but am hoping to learn. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Mike NXP]

That is your fuel injector. There are little seals in there. Be careful when running engine if those are leaking


** I realize now you said bolt, and may be circling your valve cover bolt but that wouldn't be causing your issue and if it was loose or seal was bad it would be oil-y

 

[Mike NXP]

What you need to know

Post in thread 'Replacing Fuel Injectors'

Nov 29, 2020

Of paramount importance, when removing FI (fuel injectors) or intake manifold. Is cleaning top of engine. The area where intake manifold and heads meet, holds dust, grim, sand, etc. If this grim falls into intake ports, this can cause future compression problem. The 2UZ engine is a great engine that never burns oil. But, not even it's cylinders walls can stand up to contaminants. Personally I prefer doing injector servicing work, while intake manifold off. This way I can clean the FI port really well, without fear of dropping dirt in intake port(s).

A few test simple test of FI, before...

• 2001LC

Some more relevant info and images

Fuel Injector rebuild and refresh - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fuel-injector-rebuild-and-refresh.1313115/

 

[kbfj621989]

I think you might be looking at the intake manifold bolt beside the injector:

Confirm part numbers:

 

[Mike NXP]

I think you might be looking at the intake manifold bolt beside the injector:

Confirm part numbers:

View attachment 3957003

Correct me if I'm wrong but the intake manifold bolt is higher up and more center.\

Blue - intake manifold bolt.
Green - fuel injector
Yellow - Valve cover bolt

>> It only dies with steering wheel at full turn? Nothing but a guessing game from me at this point , probably need to diagnose further.... The power steering pump has an idle up / air vane and two vac lines coming off the back of the pump. You should visually inspect to make sure this is installed and the lines are run back to the engine. You should remove the engine cover so you can inspect all vac lines

I also don't think spraying brake cleaner to diagnose is the best technique, if you must to this method use carb cleaner since it has lubricants and isnt as harsh as brake clean / starter fluid ....


Did the same mechanic install the replacement motor?


I think if you had an issue with your intake gasket or fuel injector your vehicle would run worse ....Since you said it only dies when at full turn I would probably focus on PS steering pump and vac lines to check that all of the list first

 

[Grant LX470]

Correct me if I'm wrong but the intake manifold bolt is higher up and more center.\

Blue - intake manifold bolt.
Green - fuel injector
Yellow - Valve cover bolt

>> It only dies with steering wheel at full turn? Nothing but a guessing game from me at this point , probably need to diagnose further.... The power steering pump has an idle up / air vane and two vac lines coming off the back of the pump. You should visually inspect to make sure this is installed and the lines are run back to the engine. You should remove the engine cover so you can inspect all vac lines

I also don't think spraying brake cleaner to diagnose is the best technique, if you must to this method use carb cleaner since it has lubricants and isnt as harsh as brake clean / starter fluid ....


Did the same mechanic install the replacement motor?


I think if you had an issue with your intake gasket or fuel injector your vehicle would run worse ....Since you said it only dies when at full turn I would probably focus on PS steering pump and vac lines to check that all of the list first


View attachment 3957034

Hopefully this picture can clear up the piece I was referring to. Also, I really appreciate all the replies! I have posted a couple other threads hoping for answers to this issue (those may have more information on the problem). I have already replaced the idle up valve connected to the power steering pump, inspected vacuum lines, replaced fuel filter, and replaced fuel pressure regulator. The dealership had the vehicle for 3 weeks and claimed that they could not get the car to show any issues, and therefore couldn't help me. The car does not need to be at full turn to die, any turn whatsoever at low rpm (idle) will kill the engine. The issue is intermittent, but usually occurs when really hot, after long drives (more than 1.5 hours).

This mechanic was not one I would have generally picked, I just happened to have my car die trying to turn next to his shop, so I asked for help.

The engine swap was done by a family friend, so there could be some issues associated with that as well.

 

[kbfj621989]

From the FSM, this bolt sits beside the injector:

 

[Mike NXP]

Hopefully this picture can clear up the piece I was referring to. Also, I really appreciate all the replies! I have posted a couple other threads hoping for answers to this issue (those may have more information on the problem). I have already replaced the idle up valve connected to the power steering pump, inspected vacuum lines, replaced fuel filter, and replaced fuel pressure regulator. The dealership had the vehicle for 3 weeks and claimed that they could not get the car to show any issues, and therefore couldn't help me. The car does not need to be at full turn to die, any turn whatsoever at low rpm (idle) will kill the engine. The issue is intermittent, but usually occurs when really hot, after long drives (more than 1.5 hours).

This mechanic was not one I would have generally picked, I just happened to have my car die trying to turn next to his shop, so I asked for help.

The engine swap was done by a family friend, so there could be some issues associated with that as well.

View attachment 3957060

Damn, sounds like you've done everything I would have done and the dealership also struck out... Best advice I would give is to ignore the current ' brake clean fixed it one time ' as a form of troubleshooting and start from scratch

>> being intermittent it makes it so much harder to figure out...What if when next time it happens, you turn the motor off and take your serpentine belt off, so the power steering pump is eliminated from the equation...

Just trying to think of free and easy ways to help narrow stuff down but idk ...When it dies, does it sort of like sputter out ? Do you have a scan tool to check basic stuff like engine temps ?You said recently, how long have you had this replacement motor installed for / when did this all start happening ?

 

[Grant LX470]

Damn, sounds like you've done everything I would have done and the dealership also struck out... Best advice I would give is to ignore the current ' brake clean fixed it one time ' as a form of troubleshooting and start from scratch

>> being intermittent it makes it so much harder to figure out...What if when next time it happens, you turn the motor off and take your serpentine belt off, so the power steering pump is eliminated from the equation...

Just trying to think of free and easy ways to help narrow stuff down but idk ...When it dies, does it sort of like sputter out ? Do you have a scan tool to check basic stuff like engine temps ?You said recently, how long have you had this replacement motor installed for / when did this all start happening ?

Update: I went to check, and that bolt was extremely loose (I was able to take it out with my fingers). I took it out, applied anti-seize, and put it back in with a 12mm wrench. After driving a bit, I experienced the starting issue again (see video). This issue occurs after the truck has been driving for a bit (at least 20 min), I turn the truck off, then I start it back up after it sits for 20-40 min. If I start the truck up immediately after turning it off, it starts fine. Furthermore, the truck starts fine if it has been sitting for over an hour.

While I experience this starting issue daily, the steering wheel issue only occurs after longer periods of driving (more than 1.5 hours). Although, I feel like they stem from the same mysterious issue.

To address your question - when it dies, it does sputter a bit, but is pretty quick to go (see video). I attached a scanguage, hoping to catch any abnormalities, but all temps seem to be normal to me. The issues started mid march, which is the first time I drove it since the engine swap. The previous engine blew from the plastic heater T's failing, which I have now replaced with brass and new hoses.


STARTING ISSUE VIDEO:

LX470 Starting Issue - https://youtube.com/shorts/ClRf7HDC_tE?feature=share

WHEEL TURN ISSUE:

Lexus Problem Video - https://youtube.com/shorts/0kG1Ww3FNLM?feature=share


Thank you for your help, this has been giving me a lot of trouble and I am pretty desperate to get it figured out as this is my only vehicle. I have asked around 4 different shops for a diagnosis, and none have had any idea.

 

[Mike NXP]

Good find on the loose bolt and wow, those videos are interesting... Hopefully someone with more experience than me will chime in at some point because I'm not sure what to do next

The video of you trying to start it up sounds rough, I wasn't expecting to hear all that clattering and weird noise.. It also seems like your dash lights are intermittently working but maybe that's normal for your year / style gauges ?The steering wheel turn and instant engine dying is also a first for me....

hmmmmmm.. @2001LC do you have any wisdom to share, I've seen you shed some light on replacement motors and some of the do/don'ts

Any MUD members out there nearby OP who can assist?

 

[medtro]

Apparently this bolt looking piece (attached picture) is broken and is leading to a vacuum issue.

You have a vacuum leak, fix this first and see if the rest of the problem will go away.

 

[kbfj621989]

when you turn your key to accessory mode, do you see the check engine light? Dash should show this light as part of the self test before you start the car. I see that you have VSC off and VSC trac warning lights but no check engine light. Do you have OBDII scanner?

 

[kbfj621989]

Is this hose split or am I just seeing things? Also looks different from your other posts from earlier this year, like it slid off some.

 

[kbfj621989]

@Bisho @2001LC

Hoses and connections look pretty decent to me, although the throttle up valve doesn't look great:
View attachment 3866262View attachment 3866263View attachment 3866264
View attachment 3866265

View attachment 3866268

This weekend I plan to:
- Replace throttle up valve
- Clean throttle body
- Clean MAF sensor
- Replace engine air filter

Hopefully something will resolve the issue. At the very least, I've learned a lot, thanks guys!

 

[2001LC]

I see signs, someone assembled head cover & intake manifold improperly:

1. Head cover, FPIG seal. Should not have FIPG along length of head cover rubber gasket. Indicates, lack of Toyota mechanics experience.
2. Intake manifold bolt lose. Likely non torqued down. Likely a reuse of intake manifold gasket, and or not installed white tabes up.
3. Fuel Inject, FIPG seals in. Should have rubber seal/grommet only.

Little mistakes adding up. Likely you'd see, lean fuel trims, if monitors. Indicating vacuum leaks. Lean fuel mix, engine runs hot.
Likely low on coolant, also. Which is typical, when someone, lack skill and understanding of the 4.7L.