Help! Stuck with a breakdown in southern Utah, 500 miles from home

[Grolar]

Hi guys
I'm in the middle of a round trip from California to Colorado and back and I'm stuck in southern Utah (Bryce Canyon) with a stalled engine that wouldn't start again. I left Page (AZ) this morning and drove 160 miles without any problem, but tonight, as I was parking my 80 near our accomodation, the engine died without notice. I have some lights on when I want to start: A/T temp, oil and the other usual ones. I've been driving for a while with a Code 28 - faulty 02 sensor (which amazingly doesn't appear anymore), but a mechanic in Vegas told me it wasn't a big deal and I could complete my trip.
I was steering hard when the engine died, but can't see any leak whatsoever, all fluids are fine and so is the starter, power, fuel level and so on. I don't object on spending some more days in this very nice region, but would someone have a clue on what's going on (or be a 5 and live one mile from the KOA at Cannonville, Utah?;p)
Thanks and cheers
Grolar

 

[Gumby]

Does the engine turn with the starter, or not?

DO you get a click or nothing?

 

[Kasprzak]

If it will crank and not fire, I just had a fuel pump go out on me very similiarly. No problems present whatsoever and then I went to start the next time and it would crank and not fire. Check to see if your efi fuse(under the hood) is blown. My efi fuse blew after the pump burned up and if you replace the fuse it should not blow immediately. If it does blow immediately it may not be the pump and could be a shorted out wire at the 02 sensor against the front driveline or a wire could be shorted in your harness against the egr valve at the back of the engine. Good luck.

 

[robjam]

If it will crank and not fire, I just had a fuel pump go out on me very similiarly.

I had the O2 sensor problem and mine would hesitate and not gain power badly after two hours of driving. Ultimately it would stop dead and only crank. Replaced the fuel pump, as the mechanic said it wasn't getting adequate fuel pressure. Problem solved on mine. The O2 light was intermittent through the problem and went away altogether after a new fuel pump.

Troubleshoot, fuel pump, fuel filter and labor $623.26 I tried and tried to figure it myself, but was stumped, so I had to pay the piper on that one.

Good luck from NC

 

[kai38]

Im not sure this helps or not. My 95 FZJ80 wouldnt start it had a blowen fuseable link wire off the battery melted. Turns out it was the wiring harness for the FI melted behind the EGR at the fire wall.
Toyota wraps that spot on the harness with some heat fiber that ovewr time drys and flakes off leaving the wires only protected by ele. tape. See if you have any exposed wires in that area.
Kirk

 

[RavenTai]

Fuel + Spark + Compression = engine that starts

Compression does not instantly disappear without letting itself be known (big noise, big hole in side of the block etc)

there is a spark plug removal tool in the tool kit, pull a plug (#1 is easy) reinsert the plug into the plug wire and hold it against the motor so the plug gets ground, have some one crank the engine, you should see spark

if you have access to a timing light you can check for spark without having to remove the plug,

Quick test for fuel pressure is to remove the return line from the fuel pressure regulator, it is a spring clamp right on top and easy to get to, all you need is the pair of pliers from the tool kit, after the line is removed crank the engine fuel should come out of the pressure regulator, if it does not you have a fuel problem, out of fuel, bad fuse, bad fuel pump relay, bad pump,

If both of the above are OK then the most likely the injectors are not pulsing for some reason, or you have an odd fault.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Grolar,

No offense, but scant info to go on here. If you have limited 'net access then use your time/post wisely to tell us everything you can. I, for one, have no idea what "won't start" means? Won't crank? Cranks, but won't run? Cranks slowly? Etc.

DougM

 

[e9999]

RT, excellent suggestion! Maybe you might tell him (and me ) where this line and clamp are?

Fuel + Spark + Compression = engine that starts

Compression does not instantly disappear without letting itself be known (big noise, big hole in side of the block etc)

there is a spark plug removal tool in the tool kit, pull a plug (#1 is easy) reinsert the plug into the plug wire and hold it against the motor so the plug gets ground, have some one crank the engine, you should see spark

if you have access to a timing light you can check for spark without having to remove the plug,

Quick test for fuel pressure is to remove the return line from the fuel pressure regulator, it is a spring clamp right on top and easy to get to, all you need is the pair of pliers from the tool kit, after the line is removed crank the engine fuel should come out of the pressure regulator, if it does not you have a fuel problem, out of fuel, bad fuse, bad fuel pump relay, bad pump,

If both of the above are OK then the most likely the injectors are not pulsing for some reason, or you have an odd fault.

 

[MDarius]

Keep in mind he is about as close to the middle of nowhere as you can get, especially if you don't have tools. I'm surprised he could find an internet connection!

http://maps.google.com/maps?oi=map&q=Cannonville,+UT

Grolar, any updates? What have you tried now and what have you got left to work with? Last weekend I was in St. George and could have at least given you a ride. Sorry I'm not much help.

 

[RavenTai]

RT, excellent suggestion! Maybe you might tell him (and me ) where this line and clamp are?

Good point,

find the fuel injectors nestled in the valley between the intake plenum and valve cover, at the top of the injectors is the fuel rail it is cast aluminum, follow the fuel rail all the way to the front where you will find a tallish flying saucer looking devise, that is the fuel pressure regulator,

where the pressure regulator threads into the fuel rail is high pressure fuel, at the top is a vacuum line, in the middle is the fuel pressure return that is the line we want to remove to check for fuel flow.

You might want to remove the gas cap to relive any pressure so less fuel will come out when you remove the line.

And of course be safe around fuel, For instance do the spark check first before you cover the top of the engine in fuel, also try to get as little on you as possible, no need to turn a roadside repair into a visit to the local burn unit and a totaled cruiser.

 

[Rookie2]

You might want to remove the gas cap to relive any pressure so less fuel will come out when you remove the line.

Hey RT,

I was reading in the FSM the other day and their approach is to disconnect the fuel pump via the connector that's under the DS door/frame-rail area. Start the engine and let it die on it's own. What do you think about that approach?


Rookie2

 

[PHAEDRUS]

Grolar,
Well I am buying a house down there in a few months but will still live up here. My wives family used to live dow there but not anymore.
Follow ravens advice for check down. start with the efi fuse though as it is the easiest and you should be able to find one down there, if not hitch hike to cannonville (about 8 miles west).
BTW, it is beautiful down there if you can get over the fact your truck is broken.
Dave

 

[LIVERUST]

May not be your problem at all, but at Moab last year my Lx450 killed when I pulled out into the highway. Wouldn't start. Cranking but not turning over. Found the plastic clip on the main coil wire broken at the distributor cap so it didn't seat in there far enough. you could check and make sure your's is snug in there.

oh, and welcome to Utah

sorry

troy

 

[dmc]

grolar,

i'm not going to be a ton of help from a technical perspective but it gives me a chance to tell my story and hopefully you can take advantage of similar hospitality.

Back in 98 I was down there in my 87 FJ60. This was in Feb and way off tourist season. As I pulled through Escalante and headed toward the HITR road my alternator pulley siezed up. I camped on the side of the road in the snow. Next morning i clipped the belt and drove into Esclante to a phone. I called the service staion at Ruby's Inn (bryce canyon) I'm sure you drove past it already this week. they came and got me with the flatbed. I was pretty sure I was SOL and going to be out a lot of money and the weekend shot.

The driver told me that his girlfriend was coming home from Cedar City for the weekend. He had called her and had her run to Autozone or Checker, I don't remember, to pick up a new alternator for me. She got to station about 30mins after I did. They charged me to install it and cost for the part. In addition they absorbed the cost of the core until the truck driver could return it when he headed back to school the next week. an hour later i was headed back toward escalante and 3 days of camping. If you can get a hold of them i'm sure they'll have some options for you to get your truck working. Even if they can't fix it i'm sure they'll try their best. I've spent a lot of time in that neck of the woods and am continually impressed with their hospitality and friendliness to outsiders. makes me want to move to a small town.

If you get desperate and need a part delivered from SLC let me know. I could do it tomorrow (tues Oct 10th) if you're willing to pay for gas. call me 801-232-6976. I'm right by Karl Malone Toyota and can grab the part no problem. I have to leave town Weds for the rest of the week so let me if I can help.
dmc

 

[RavenTai]

Hey RT,

I was reading in the FSM the other day and their approach is to disconnect the fuel pump via the connector that's under the DS door/frame-rail area. Start the engine and let it die on it's own. What do you think about that approach?


Rookie2

this is the right way to relive the pressure on the high pressure portions of the fuel system,


there are three lines that run from the fuel tank to the engine bay,

the main pressure line, the pressure coems from the fuel pump comes down the line and passes through the fuel filter and then int the fuel rail where the injectors live, the fuel pump pumps more fuel than the motor needs, the excess fuel is relieved at the fuel pressure regulator, all of these parts are under high pressureand you would want to depresurize them before cracking any of them open.

the fuel return line brings this excess fuel from the pressure regulator back to the fuel tank to be recirculated again,

third line is a vapor line also low pressure, carries vapors to the charcoal canister and ultimately to the engine to be burned

 

[Skillet]

this is the right way to relive the pressure on the high pressure portions of the fuel system,


there are three lines that run from the fuel tank to the engine bay,

the main pressure line, the pressure coems from the fuel pump comes down the line and passes through the fuel filter and then int the fuel rail where the injectors live, the fuel pump pumps more fuel than the motor needs, the excess fuel is relieved at the fuel pressure regulator, all of these parts are under high pressureand you would want to depresurize them before cracking any of them open.

the fuel return line brings this excess fuel from the pressure regulator back to the fuel tank to be recirculated again,

third line is a vapor line also low pressure, carries vapors to the charcoal canister and ultimately to the engine to be burned

Holy s***, I am exhausted just reading that...

 

[PHAEDRUS]

So ar3e you moving under your own power now??

 

[Rookie2]

this is the right way to relive the pressure on the high pressure portions of the fuel system,

That makes since.

Thanks,
Rookie2

 

[Grolar]

Update

Hi guys and thank you so much for all of this input, advice and help offers, I really felt I was a part of a nice community there. As I was, as you noticed, stranded in the middle of nowhere with a 6 mo kid and very cold temperatures at night (not to mention the thunderstorms), I wanted my family to be safe quickly and got in touch with Bryce Canyon Towing through my road assistance, and we're now in St. George, UT, where the closest Toyota dealership was.
The mechanic in Bryce wasn't sure about the glitch and wouldn't commit to a full recovery, so the mother vessel was the place to go (nice ride on a tow truck in the Dixie natl forest). One thing for sure, the fuel pump works but there is now spark.
Waiting for Stanger Toyota to update me, but they say they're swamped and might not be able to look at it before tomorrow, Wednesday. I will keep you posted and enjoy this nice city in the meantime. Thanks once again. Cheers. Grolar

 

[concretejungle]

Grolar, you really need to contact a local cruiser guy/gal out there (there are tons on the board and many replied to this thread). I'm sure they can help guid you to a good, reputable mechanic and perhaps even aid in diagnosing the problem. This will help get you on the road sooner.

Just throwing out some advice.